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Brake Line Failure... on my 98 Chevy TRUCK!


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Brake related, but not Z related... My 98 Chevy Z71 4X4 just suffered a brake line failure due to RUST... This is the second Chevy K series I've had that this has happened on... The line failed in Herndon and it cost me $235 to get the truck to Fredericksburg. I'm pretty much wondering if it is A: GM Crap, B: The crap they are using to melt the snow now, or C: dumb luck, but a 1998 truck in this vehicles condition shouldn't have a brakeline that looks like it was fished out of the ocean! :shock:

 

Crappy run of luck I'm having...

 

Mike :roll:

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My father has a 2002 1/2 ton GM that had the anti-lock sensor problem at 30,000 miles. Confused the heck out of me and the shop for a while. Finally found it driving around watching the wheel speed sensors on a scanner. It would only do it once in a while, but it had NO BRAKES when the ABS screwed up. The wheel speed sensors, installed with one bolt in the front end, had rust under the mounting surface, pushing the sensor up and just out of range of the toothed wheel. Every once in a while, one would miss counting a bunch of teeth and report back to the ABS confuser that the wheel had locked. Instant no brakes with the ABS cycling madly.

I had some very scary times in the Rockys with an early production 2500HD chev a couple years ago, had a heavy trailer on gravel mountain logging roads. The ABS wasn't very happy with the amount of slippage on the gravel and left me without much braking until I pulled the big fuse under the hood.

My next truck will probably be something around a 1970 GMC, with modern power under the hood. There just isn't anything out there new that I have confidence in.

 

Mike - You should see the underside of my 01 Maxima - here in Ontario, Canada, salt corrosion is horrible. The car has 40,000 miles on it and the corrosion on the underside and suspension makes me cringe, every time I'm under there. Your truck, if it was driven here, would be due for all new brake and gas lines, as well as lower cab corners and box sides over the wheel wells. As for your question, I answer both - they aren't making them any better, and the salt is just making it worse..

 

Hope you get out of this slump OK.

 

Doug

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My next truck will probably be something around a 1970 GMC' date=' with modern power under the hood. There just isn't anything out there new that I have confidence in.

 

Doug[/quote']

 

Exactly the reason I decided to do a drivetrain conversion (99 Vortec/4L60E) in my 71 Cheyenne 20! Old school works every time.....

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I had some very scary times in the Rockys with an early production 2500HD chev a couple years ago' date=' had a heavy trailer on gravel mountain logging roads. The ABS wasn't very happy with the amount of slippage on the gravel and left me without much braking until I pulled the big fuse under the hood.

Doug[/quote']

 

Absolute classic. I hate ABS brakes. I will book mark this quote for future arguments. Don't know why they can't put a switch on ABS and air bags. Or better yet, make them optional. Guess that would require the government to actually trust us.

 

Scary that brake hard line could rust so quickly. Aren't they suppose to be stainless steel?

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Guest RunninOnEmpty

There's a fuse we can pull to defeat the damned ABS? Where is it located? I have an 04 Sierra 2500 which should be the same. Will try the same on my 04 Yukon which has "Traction Control" as well.

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Well I'm all ears for a suitable late model replacement for my GM product that can tow 10K pounds... However, Coworker of mine informed me today that his 99 Ford F150 did the SAME THING (Brake line rust failure) to him back in March. Not like we're living in the rust belt or anything... :roll:

 

Mike :cool:

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Guest RunninOnEmpty

Tim240Z - Not so much "money bags" as bags of money going to GMAC until sometime after the next ice age! :) BTW, didn't I see your car a few months ago? My partner (the Korean guy) and I (the old geezer) pulled up in a cop car. If so, your's is without doubt the most beautiful Z I've seen. Wish we'd had more time to check it out.

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Guest RunninOnEmpty

Tim - I'll be looking fwd to it. I have Sundays off now, so I'll be able to come in a more appropriate vehicle:)

 

Thanks.

John

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RunninOnEmpty - The ABS fuse is in the master electrical box, driver's side fender. The ABS light will stay on as long as the fuse is out. If you want a real laugh, check out where GM put the really expensive ABS actuator on your truck. Here's a hint - look under the truck, right about where your feet sit...

 

Doug

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with the ABS fuse out does the system default to regular non-ABS?

 

The answer is: it depends...

 

Automobiles that have later generation ABS systems have brake bias programmed into the ABS software. In many cases the default braking bias without ABS control is heavily front biased for safety reasons. Its almost as if the cars don't have any rear brakes.

 

I learned this while helping Erik Messley tune the brakes on an Acrua NSX, a Viper GTS, and a Honda S2000. Short of replacing the master cylinders, brake calipers, rotors, and prop valves, the braking balance and stopping distances on those particular cars was much better with the ABS hooked up then without.

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RunninOnEmpty - In light of what John has said, I am not 100% sure how the brake bias is controlled on those trucks. Like all mods, this one is at your own risk. While not noticing any difference in braking on pavement, I can't say that the brake bias remained the same ABS on to ABS off. On gravel, the difference in braking was jaw-dropping, because with ABS on, the surge brakes on the trailer where doing all the braking, while the ABS unit cycled. This was a purpose-built trailer for use as a mobile workshop/spares container for helicopter maintenance. It weighed about 7500 lbs and had 4 wheel hyd surge brakes. When I first drove the truck on gravel without the trailer, I almost put it off the road because there were no trailer brakes to stop me. Then, the ABS fuse was removed on the advice of a local GM tech(!). It stopped like a normal rig in the mountains then, I noticed no difference on pavement, but I probably only drove without the trailer 5% of the time.

To sum it up, if you drive on pavement all the time, I would leave the fuse in, as you won't notice a difference and that is likely what the ABS unit is programmed for. If you drive on gravel, take it out. The braking problems were due to the deceleration speeds of the wheels on gravel, as there is a lot more slippage than on pavement.

I notice that the new Range Rovers have dash-selectable ABS and Trac Control software for different road conditions. What a novel idea.

 

Doug

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