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Removing tierod end from the hole on the thing


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I let them soak in wd40 overnight. If replacing them, I use a 2lb sledge hammer (mini sledge) and it takes two or three knocks to bust it loose.

I usually replace them when I have to un bolt them.

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And to add to DAW's great suggestion, stick a pickle fork in between the steering arm and the rod end's housing prior to popping the steering arm with the hammer. Then when the arm momemtarily relaxes, the pressure on the rod end will help pop it out.

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Kinda got confused where you started talking about the cotter pin. The bolt and and the cotter pin are off. Its just the threaded part sticking through the hole. I have tried to hammer on the threaded part down. Have also tried to pry between the strut assembly and the tierod to get it out with no luck. Dunno if this is what your talkig about or what. Appreciate the replys.

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http://www.britbits.com/shopsite_sc/store/html/new_parts.html

Look at the bottom of the page. This the tool to have for the job. You could do a search for other suppliers using "tie rod removal tool" or "ball joint seperator" It's worth the money the tool cost. Mine came from a Land Rover Rally last year. Otherwise, just wack the crap out of the knuckle or use a pickle fork and destroy the boot. I prefer this tool over all other options!

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Don't hit the threaded part of the tie rod. Hit the side of the steer knuckle. Or use the pickle fork. On really bad ones I used to wedge a pickle fork in there then use an air hammer with a blunt tip on the steer knuckle. I think you can get a pickle fork end for your air hammer too.

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I found an easier way. Heat. I used a heat gun and a puller. Just put a good amount of pressure on the stud (in the correct direction) heat the surrounding metal to expand, and POP, out it comes, easy no sweat. No cursing or mangled threads either. This worked on old crusty cars as well as newer (presumably easier ones)

 

Grant

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