PUSHER Posted May 27, 2005 Share Posted May 27, 2005 Any Idea how do get the tierod end off of the strut assembly? No amount of hammering is helping. Or would it be easier to disconnect it from the steering rack. Thanks. 280z 76 if that helps. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fl327 Posted May 27, 2005 Share Posted May 27, 2005 I let them soak in wd40 overnight. If replacing them, I use a 2lb sledge hammer (mini sledge) and it takes two or three knocks to bust it loose. I usually replace them when I have to un bolt them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
auxilary Posted May 27, 2005 Share Posted May 27, 2005 driver's side is reverse threaded on the steering rack. I just saved you 2 hours of profanity Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blueovalz Posted May 27, 2005 Share Posted May 27, 2005 And to add to DAW's great suggestion, stick a pickle fork in between the steering arm and the rod end's housing prior to popping the steering arm with the hammer. Then when the arm momemtarily relaxes, the pressure on the rod end will help pop it out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PUSHER Posted May 27, 2005 Author Share Posted May 27, 2005 Kinda got confused where you started talking about the cotter pin. The bolt and and the cotter pin are off. Its just the threaded part sticking through the hole. I have tried to hammer on the threaded part down. Have also tried to pry between the strut assembly and the tierod to get it out with no luck. Dunno if this is what your talkig about or what. Appreciate the replys. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ezzzzzzz Posted May 27, 2005 Share Posted May 27, 2005 http://www.britbits.com/shopsite_sc/store/html/new_parts.html Look at the bottom of the page. This the tool to have for the job. You could do a search for other suppliers using "tie rod removal tool" or "ball joint seperator" It's worth the money the tool cost. Mine came from a Land Rover Rally last year. Otherwise, just wack the crap out of the knuckle or use a pickle fork and destroy the boot. I prefer this tool over all other options! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMortensen Posted May 27, 2005 Share Posted May 27, 2005 Don't hit the threaded part of the tie rod. Hit the side of the steer knuckle. Or use the pickle fork. On really bad ones I used to wedge a pickle fork in there then use an air hammer with a blunt tip on the steer knuckle. I think you can get a pickle fork end for your air hammer too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SSflyer Posted May 27, 2005 Share Posted May 27, 2005 Off topic question.... How did you mount the flares onto your car? Did you use an adhesive like AutoMix? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PUSHER Posted May 27, 2005 Author Share Posted May 27, 2005 Guess Ill go hunt down a pickle fork and see if autozone has/rents out a balljoint seperator. -Ummm, drillbit and selftaping screws, didnt want to mess with glue and Im not going to mold them in. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Workinprogress Posted May 27, 2005 Share Posted May 27, 2005 I found an easier way. Heat. I used a heat gun and a puller. Just put a good amount of pressure on the stud (in the correct direction) heat the surrounding metal to expand, and POP, out it comes, easy no sweat. No cursing or mangled threads either. This worked on old crusty cars as well as newer (presumably easier ones) Grant Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PUSHER Posted May 27, 2005 Author Share Posted May 27, 2005 ball joint seperator from autozone= the win. Thanks guys, I have another question that ill need to get pictures of to explain so stay tuned. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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