rudypoochris Posted June 18, 2005 Share Posted June 18, 2005 is the 1"1/16 master cylinder good for a 240z running toyota 4x4 front brakes and 240sx rears, or is the 15/16" a more normal feel. (1 1/16 maybe is too firm??) any installation differences between the two, thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest iskone Posted June 18, 2005 Share Posted June 18, 2005 I've never heard of anyone using a 1 1/16" I don't think you would have good modulation with a MC that big since a little presure from the foot would go a long way in applying pressure to the brakes. Could be wrong though, some guru will chime in. I run a dual MC setup so I couldn't tell much more. Isk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
buZy Posted June 18, 2005 Share Posted June 18, 2005 Bigger the better...cant have enough brakes. hehe:) I don't know... sounds good but I am no guru god. Best test is to give it a try and see what happens. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hat1324 Posted June 18, 2005 Share Posted June 18, 2005 is that out of a truck? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest JAMIE T Posted June 18, 2005 Share Posted June 18, 2005 I think a LONG time ago, a member here put a MC out of a 300ZX, Z32 I think it was, on his 240Z. He was calling it a 17/16" MC. try searching, it is old, probably 3-4 years. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tonycharger72 Posted June 18, 2005 Share Posted June 18, 2005 Apparently they are the stock MC's from VT Commodores, Which use im pretty sure PBR 2 Piston 51mm Calipers on the front and a single PBR piston on the rears (I think), pretty sure about the fronts, but not certain about the rears.......... I spoke to an Aussie Distributor of Wilwood Calipers and when i suggested that i use the 4 by 1.75" Superlites up front & 4 by 1.38" on the rears he said a 15/16" or 1" MC would not give me sufficent pedal pressure and i would need to go to a 7/8" & 15/16" split system or use the MC of a VT Commodore which is a 1 1/16", he told me of a brake upgrade he did for a BMW and the bloke used the 1.75" calipers on the front and he said the bloke just had no pedal............ But with the 4by4 and 240sx setup you end up with 4 times 43mm pistons up front and 1 times 34mm pistons out back, Im pretty sure you would end up with a really really firm pedal if you used the 1 1/16" MC with the 4by 4 setup, but if you like a really really firm pedal go for the 1 1/16" MC with the 4by4 setup I dont know if there is any bolt on 1 1/16 MC's to suit the Zeds Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rudypoochris Posted June 18, 2005 Author Share Posted June 18, 2005 think its from a 240sx isnt it? just wondering how stiff it will be, is their any calculation for this... geeks please chime in .... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rudypoochris Posted June 18, 2005 Author Share Posted June 18, 2005 does anyone have a web page with install info and pictures for a 15/16's? or atleast a post about install? i want to see how difficult it is, thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMortensen Posted June 18, 2005 Share Posted June 18, 2005 The later 15/16 bolts right in, there are only 2 modifications needed IIRC. The first is you need to bend the lines so that the front brakes go to the big reservoir and the rear brakes go to the small reservoir. I did this by hand. The 2nd is that you need to lengthen the rod coming out of the master. This I did by finding a bolt that threaded into the adjuster, cutting and rounding the end off. That was it. Other than that it just bolts right on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zcarnut Posted June 18, 2005 Share Posted June 18, 2005 The 1990 and 1991 Z32 300ZX used a 1 and 1/16" (17/16") diameter master cylinder. This fits the “later style†brake booster bolt pattern that Nissan switched over to starting in 1982. The 1982 and 83 ZX boosters will accept this master cylinder and this booster will bolt into the 1974-81 Z cars. One thing about the Z32 master cylinder is that it has the proportioning valve built into the master cylinder. This may or may not be something you want. The 1992 through 1995 Subaru SVX (without ABS) also used a 1 and 1/16" master and this master does not have a internal proportioning valve so it would be a better swap for the earlier Z cars. I realize that the SUX’s are a rare find in the junkyards, but you might get lucky. Here’s a picture of the Subaru master I got at a boneyard: Nissan reduced the diameter of the later Z32 master cylinders to an even 1". There is no 240SX nor any Nissan Truck that uses a 1 and 1/16" size master cylinder. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JoshB 240Z Posted June 20, 2005 Share Posted June 20, 2005 I run a 1 and 1/16" master cylinder identical to the unit pictured in Steve's post. I pulled mine from a 1997 Subaru Legacy wagon and installed it on a later booster. I use this MC because of the 1.75" Superlites I run up front and the lack of an internal proportioning valve. This MC is also easier to find in junkyards these days...if you go the used route. Josh Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
74_5.0L_Z Posted June 20, 2005 Share Posted June 20, 2005 I have the stock 260Z master cylinder (15/16" I believe) with the following brakes: front Outlaw 2800 calipers with (4) 1.75" pistons 11.75 " x 0.81" rotors rear Outlaw 2800 calipers with (4) 1.38" pistons 10.75" x 0.81" rotors Hawk HP plus pads Wilwood proportioning valve I run this set-up with NO booster, and my brakes work very well. The modulation is very good, and the pedal effort is moderate. If you use a large bore master cylinder then you had better run a booster or the pedal effort will be very high. Larger master cylinders require greater the pedal effort but less pedal movement. Smaller master cylinders require less effort but more pedal displacement. Either way the work required is the same W=F*x W is work F is pedal force x is pedal displacement Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thehelix112 Posted May 16, 2008 Share Posted May 16, 2008 Sorry to dig this up from the grave, I just wanted to thank 74_5.0L_Z for that post. I'm planning out my outlaw upgrade and I definitely don't understand the relationship MC size has with pedal feel and travel. But I think this put me on the right path, going to read some more. Dave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blueovalz Posted May 16, 2008 Share Posted May 16, 2008 To add to 74_5.0L_Z's post; I am running the 4000 series 1.75" front, and 3000 series 1.25" rear. The MC is a 15/16", and has a nice OEM type of feel (but without the fade) using Hawk pads. I do NOT use a proportioning valve. After trial and error, I found this size ratio perfect for the current use of the car. Put some stickier tires on it, and I will have too much braking in back and have to re-install the valve. If you go with the 1 1/6" bore, it will make for a pretty stiff pedal that will require a good bit more umph. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thehelix112 Posted May 17, 2008 Share Posted May 17, 2008 Terry, That makes sense, I think, are you running a non-boosted setup? If not, what booster are you using? Dave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blueovalz Posted May 17, 2008 Share Posted May 17, 2008 OEM, perhaps off a 280z. it is very close to the clutch MC, making it a little larger than the 240z booster. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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