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s&w roll bar


Guest dragon

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Sorry for going off topic, but I never understood the concept of coming to a board, posting a message, and saying "email me"....

 

it's not a public service... and the board DOES feature an option where if your post it REPLIED to or a PM is sent, you're notified by email...

 

As a rule, I always ignore posts where the user says "I need help, but why don't YOU email ME, because I won't bother to check this thread for answers"

 

That just means the question isn't important enough to the original poster, therefore not important enough to receive input from regular contributing members

 

*steps off soapbox*

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Sorry for going off topic' date=' but I never understood the concept of coming to a board, posting a message, and saying "email me"....

 

That just means the question isn't important enough to the original poster, therefore not important enough to receive input from regular contributing members[/quote']

 

I agree! Isn't one the points in coming to a board like this and asking questions so that we can all learn?

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I seem to remember there being a setting that allows hybridz to automatically email you when a post you've been active on gets a reply. Problem solved.

.

 

To activate this, go to "Quik Links" - above. Then click " Edit Options", then scroll down to " Default Thread Subscription Mode", click on down arrow in box and select what you want.

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I used a S&W kit in my 280Z (Soon to be a Velo Rossa Coupe). I customized it a bit and it worked out well. The main hoop drops right into the seatbelt pockets. I cut a plate and welded it into the seatbelt pocket and welded the hoop to the plate. I didn't like where the rear supports ended up (short), so I took the supports made for the door (run from the main hoop to the firewall), cut and notched them so they now go from the main hoop the back of the car. I know. I know, PICTURES. I'll get some over the weekend and finally post some pictures in the gallery.

 

- Joe

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I think what Katman is getting at is his published disapproval of the S&W kit as being ineffectual....if memory serves correctly, he has stated this several times......

 

It's heavy and inefficient, meaning for the weight it's not very strong. But, folks have said it's NHRA approved so if that's his bag maybe that's what he wants. If he'd rather be safe that's another issue....

 

"email him and find out" -LMAO

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when done right i dont see what the problem is. It takes some fabricating and redoing the cage but thats nothing most of us cant do on this board. As long as you put the bars in the right place and reinforce the mounting points i honestly dont see how it is "unsafe".

 

Unless you believe the quality of the steel is bad???? Which i dont see. The pipes are 1.75" .134" so it legal and with a diagonal crossbrace its scca legal too for some types of racing depending on wheather you go full or half. Anyway check my site, I think the cage I built both stiffens the cars and will be safer in a wreck.

 

But there again lol i dont really support S&W it takes a WHOLE LOT MORE WORK then it worth, might as well go custom. However these days it costs just as much to buy the stell as the s&W kit almost.

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For starters, they don't have (or at least didn't used to) a diagonal in the main hoop, which is engineering malpractice. Maybe safer than nothing (although one could argue you'd be less likely to rollover if you didn't have all that weight up high), but not as safe as your typical ITS cage in a Z, which is also probably lighter. Again it goes back to intent- if he has to meet NHRA rules at his local drag track then okay, if he's doing track days at a road racing facility then I won't ride with him. If he wants one for looks, then it's a great deal.

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... but one can very easily take that horizontal bar and make it into a diagonal.... as i did. Anyway i will state that for somebody on a budget that doesnt mind taking there time and doing fabbing the S&W kit is a great place to get your hoop and steel, just dont follow there tubing placement. Tie in the cage to the struts towers in the back and make a diagonal for the main bar..

 

katman its no 200mph roll cage but take a look at my site couple posts above and tell me whats wrong with it. I chose not to do a full cage due to the fact i dont wear a helmet while im driving my car all the time lol. but at anyrate It should pass any tech where scca requires a roll bar or any drag racing application.

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Austin your roll bar basically turned out like John Coffey's (see http://www.betamotorsports.com) with the addition of the side bars. But the way the kit is intended to be installed is not so good IMO. I doubt that most people re-engineer the thing. Most of the pictures that I've seen of S&W cages have the bars installed just as the instructions dictate. Maybe you should send S&W some pics and suggest they rewrite the instructions... :)

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... but one can very easily take that horizontal bar and make it into a diagonal.... as i did. Anyway i will state that for somebody on a budget that doesnt mind taking there time and doing fabbing the S&W kit is a great place to get your hoop and steel, just dont follow there tubing placement. Tie in the cage to the struts towers in the back and make a diagonal for the main bar..

 

Yours looks good. Fortunately you had enough sense to redesign it. I'd rather use 1-3/4 .095 wall and be a lot lighter. Isn't the S&W something like .134 wall?

 

[QOUTE=240hoke]...katman its no 200mph roll cage

Nor would it have to be.....:)

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