Jump to content
HybridZ

V8 #2 now down and out


Recommended Posts

Swapped manifolds the other day to cure an oil leak and to see if I could tune easier with a Victor Jr on the 406 instead of the Holley dual plane.

 

I had some trouble getting the front water ports to seal on the intake/heads, so I untorqued all the intake bolts and did them front to back instead of from the center out, like the manual said. That fixed the water leak, but when I started it there was a constant backfire in the exhaust from one cylinder, until I got it revved above 2000 rpm. I had to really richen the low rpm fuel map to get it to be near 14.7:1, from where I had the map with the dual plane.

 

I drove it a few miles to work and back (they were having their annual car show during lunch, as part of the celebration to commemorate all the dough the employees donated for the United Way campaign). Pretty cool place to work, huh!!

 

Anyway, I checked the compression (engine was cold by the evening) and it was 180-190psi until I got to cylinder # 6, which was 120, and # 8 was 160. I hooked shop air (120psi) to the spark plug hole and brought it to TDC for #6 with both valves closed. No intake or exhaust valve leaks, but WOW there was a TON of air coming out of the valve cover hole for the oil breather!!! Even had a wistle to it! It also was lightly pressurizing the cooling system, as I could watch the water level rise in the radiator fill neck.

 

I just pulled that head and found a crack all the way around the block's deck that is about 5/64 inch from the cylinder wall deck surface.

 

Very weird - I've never heard of that before. I guess the agressive block decking was partly responsible. It was decked to about 8.885" deck height, from the stock 9.025". The guy was supposed to deck it to 9.000", but got a bit carried away. I still don't see how that could have caused the problem.

 

This is a 400 2 bolt block, not sure what year. "509" high nickel casting.

 

So who has an opinion on World versus Dart blocks? And where to get one cheapest?

 

This is the last chapter in the 406 from hell story. The next book will be much better, I'm sure :).

Link to comment
Share on other sites

ppraska, I've got two dart little "M" blocks, one is a 400 with 400 mains, the other is a 350 with 350 mains. Both will bore to 4.200. When you see one, they remind you of the first time you saw a girl naked, makes you want to touch it all over.

 

I don't know about World blocks at all, but I'm sure that they are similar. I posted a price and phone for Edwards in Alb, they have the little m for about $1800, I've seen them on EBAY for about that as well.

 

Good luck!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

...It also was lightly pressurizing the cooling system' date=' as I could watch the water level rise in the radiator fill neck.

 

I just pulled that head and found a crack all the way around the block's deck that is about 5/64 inch from the cylinder wall deck surface....[/quote']

 

Keyrapp. Man that absolutely sucks. Pete, you're a real man being able to laugh at it (cry too?) the way you do. I think your problem(s) will be solved using a Dart block. Best of wishes.

 

BTW, remind your wife what you want for Christmas...:mrgreen:

 

Davy

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Pete, I guess I could say that sucks, but I'd be stating the obvious. If I can help out, let me know. I'd offer to swing down with some 357 Mag. AP, but I used them all up before it became illegal to have 'em. And yep we did use 'em up at a junk yard shooting blocks and yes they did crack the block. We giggled like little girls. After all the effort of getting some they went and made them illegal, but that's another story. This is one of those times I miss 'em, that block sure deserves one.

 

- Joe

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Pete,

 

Thats interesting as my friend just tore down his 400, 30 over 509 casting block and low and behold he cracked his block and cylinder wall. I think his was from timing, detonation issues on nitrous. Still less than 1000 miles on the new build, he was pissed.

 

Very sorry to hear about this. Did you not just get the motor put together? The after market blocks are the way to go especially when your talking about the 400 blocks.

 

Best of luck and yes Christmas is right around the corner!!! Hurry up Santa!

 

Mike

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks for all the kind thoughts!

 

But I think I sounded a false alarm! Sorry!

 

The crack may not be a crack that shouldn't be there....

 

I talked to the guy that built the shortblock and he says that he can't remember if he sleeved it but what I was describing (5/64" "crack" around the cylinder) sure does sound like the thin sleeve you use to sleeve the 400 blocks. He's pretty sure what I was seeing is the sleeve moving down a bit (less than .001" from what I can tell) from the deck.

 

He see's no way that I could get air from the pressurized cylinder test through that crack into the crankcase, like I was describing and I agree. He had me rock the # 6 piston and another one at TDC to verify that the skirt on the #6 piston hadn't collapsed or broken off.

 

I told him about using the Cometic MLS gaskets and right away he said he suspects that my leak is from the cylinder into the lifter valley across the gasket surface. He said he's had nothing but trouble with them on the older engines, usually water leaks (sounds familiar, I've been there on this build as well!). Like grumpyvette, he's had good luck recently with NAPA copper shims, with some copper spray on them.

 

He had me lay a straight edge across the block surface and the head surface to see what was up there - less than .001" gap - I couldn't even see light under the straight edge.

 

I cleaned the surfaces, threads in the block and the bolts and I'm about to put a .040" thick Fel-Pro composition gasket on and do the pressure test again. He's confident that it will fix the problem. If it does, I'll put one on the other bank of the engine and put her back together. If all works out, I'll be on the road again in a few days.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Well, it was a nice try, but no luck. Both #6 and #8 are still leaking and down on compression (110 and 145 respectively). They went up to 145 and 215 psi with oil squirted in them.

 

Glenn McCoy was over while I did this.

 

Theories:

 

- crack in cylinder wall between #6 and #8 near top - but I didn't see any.

 

- two bad sets of rings or crack sets of rings in those cylinders

 

- damaged pistons (ring lands, etc.) in those cylinders.

 

She's broken. I'll pull the head again, and the pan and yank pistons #6 and #8 to see what's up with the cylinder dimensions (using a dial bore gage) and check the pistons and rings carefully.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hey, it's only an engine. I have my health, and a daily driver :).

 

Pulled #6 piston - all looks very normal. Rings intact, not stuck, lands, clearances look fine.

 

I noticed that on both the #6 and #8 cylinder wall, in the first 1 inch below the deck, in the area next to the siamesed wall between the two cylinders there is a brown area that looks like where blowby was pretty bad.

 

Out came the dial bore gage.

 

Here's what the bore measurements look like about 1/4" below the deck, on the leaking cylinder, #6:

406cylDimensions_cyl6.GIF

 

Look closely at how quickly and by how much the dimensions change from the 9 o'clock to 11 o'clock area. 0.0045" in about 60 degrees. That's pretty big, and no ring will seal that much variation in that short distance. I believe this is the cause for the leak.

 

Here's a good cylinder, #2:

406cylDimensions_cyl2.GIF

 

The builder says he's done plenty of sleeves in 400 SBCs and never seen this happen. So this is some kind of a fluke I guess. Bad luck follows this car... No way I'm going to get this repaired. And since my parts are for a .030" over 400, finding another stock block that hasn't been bored from the STANDARD bore will be tough.

 

So I'm probably going for a bottom of the line Dart Little M block. I'll be ordering this week.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

After talking to my machine shop and reading some of grumpyvette's and other's posts on chevytalk, I decided on the Dart Little M block over the World Motown block.

 

I decided on the 350 Main, 9.025 deck height, 4.125 bore Sportsman block (that means only the 4 center mains are 4 bolt, and ductile instead of steel caps), PN 31151211.

 

CNC-Motorsports.com, has it for $1806. That's almost the lowest price I could find. The reasons I went with them is the $75 to anywhere (business or residence) in the US shipping, and their good phone sales service. John was quite helpful, and reminded me I'd need rings :). I got out for $1995.95 with rings and shipping. OUCH!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...