ZT-R Posted January 6, 2006 Share Posted January 6, 2006 i have a 280z that has no rust on it at all, i need to do sub frame connectors for the rb26 swap. i really dont want to cut out the floor as there is no need to, but how do i go about doing sub frame connectors, can i just weld it to right up against the oem one and stich weld that to the floor pans?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ed260Z Posted January 6, 2006 Share Posted January 6, 2006 Check ou tthis site. www.alteredz.com He did a real nice job on his car, and posted a lot of information. You could use a 1/2" thinner piece of stock and not cut into the floor. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wagz Posted January 6, 2006 Share Posted January 6, 2006 Maybe something was up with the search function when you tried, but there are tons of posts on this. I just found pages of them a few minutes ago. You can add reinforcement without cutting the existing pan. I used Pete's method mentioned above, but several guys have used stout c-channel fitted over the existing oem supports, taking the new c-channel all the way to the rear and stitch welding it into place. You'll have to comb through a lot of posts on the subject, but all the info you need is here. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pop N Wood Posted January 7, 2006 Share Posted January 7, 2006 Yes, they do have weld in kits. http://www.baddogparts.com/ Do a search. People have posted a pic of these installed and they look pretty good. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ed260Z Posted January 7, 2006 Share Posted January 7, 2006 The Bad Dog Parts frame rail is a stock replacement piece. He is looking to tie in the front and rear of the car with a Sub-frame connector. But I hear they make quality parts (no experience with them myself) May be if you ask them nicely they will make a set for you. Use and age will have twisted your chassis a bit. I would take it to a shop with a frame machine, and have it checked before you start to stiffen up the chassis. A few extra bucks now will save you time & effort later. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMortensen Posted January 7, 2006 Share Posted January 7, 2006 Bad Dog is working on a subframe connector too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jbc3 Posted January 7, 2006 Share Posted January 7, 2006 Take a look at what I did as far as subframes. I ran rollbar tubing just outside the stock frame rail and welded it in where the rear sway bar/frame area with a plate and in the front where the compression rod ties into the frame. with 2 plates, one on the bottom of the stock frame rail and one up the outside. I also welded in the mounts for my transmission crossmember to these bars. I jack the car from these subframe connectors. I was actually taking pictures of the exhaust that I fabbed up this week, but you can see the subframe connectors....So the focus was not on the subframes in these pics. Side view, you can see that the subframe is lower than the stock frame rail, but nowhere as low as the exhaust is. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZT-R Posted January 12, 2006 Author Share Posted January 12, 2006 ahhh man, u got a nice R230 setup there, want to weld me up a brace like that, i have my 230 sitting here, never have time... can you try to get better pics of the rails, i can really see where they terminate Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZT-R Posted January 13, 2006 Author Share Posted January 13, 2006 wouldnt i need to run it from the TC rod mounting place all the way to to the rear where the oem one stops, turn up and go up and tie into the oem bar that the diff bolts up to.... basicly its like straight up from the center of the wheel well. i saw a few that just turned up about 8 inches after the oem one ends, i dont see how that would really do much good. also i am going to take the car to a frame shop, the engine is in the car, its the L28 and im gonna put a rb26 in it. it would be best to make sure everythings straight and good with the engine in the car then weld up some frame connectors right?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gnosez Posted January 13, 2006 Share Posted January 13, 2006 The full length rails we will be making next week are for 240s and these use the new (and improved) front section that goes from 9 inches in front of the firewall and ends where the OEM ones did (behind the seats). We have fabbed a rear section that can be butt welded to the front section. This rear piece welds to the body cross member at the diff. Pics as soon as they are available. That said these are but part of what you would need to strenghten your Z. We believe that a 6-point cage, a front triangular strut bar and a rail set-up like our rails would be the right way to go. Buy ours, do it yourself, either way just using the rails isn't the final answer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
S15 200sx owner Posted January 13, 2006 Share Posted January 13, 2006 The full length rails we will be making next week are for 240s and these use the new (and improved) front section that goes from 9 inches in front of the firewall and ends where the OEM ones did (behind the seats). We have fabbed a rear section that can be butt welded to the front section. This rear piece welds to the body cross member at the diff. Pics as soon as they are available. That said these are but part of what you would need to strenghten your Z. We believe that a 6-point cage' date=' a front triangular strut bar and a rail set-up like our rails would be the right way to go. Buy ours, do it yourself, either way just using the rails isn't the final answer.[/quote'] Hi there, do you make a complete replacemrnt rail that goes the full lenght inc the bit that weld to the firewall and goes forward to the radiator crossmember? Mine are bent and buckled forward of the firewall from an accident. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gnosez Posted January 13, 2006 Share Posted January 13, 2006 We don't make the front frame rail section because they are already being made by Charlie Osborne (Zeddfindings) up in Canada. His site is: http://www.datsunzparts.com and his email address is: zeddfind@kos.net A while back there were a few OEM front rail sets on ebay going for I believe $500/side, but I could have remembered wrong. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ed260Z Posted January 13, 2006 Share Posted January 13, 2006 A while back there were a few OEM front rail sets on ebay going for I believe $500/side' date=' but I could have remembered wrong.[/quote'] Unless your looking to restore a car to factory condition I wouldn't use stock rails. The replacements you can make your self out of thicker material. Mine are bent and buckled forward of the firewall from an accident. Your going to need new rails, and a frame shop. Uni-bodys need to be nice and straight, to handle any kind of power. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jbc3 Posted January 13, 2006 Share Posted January 13, 2006 I will try and take pictures next time I have the car in the air. Although the below picture is partially blocked by the lower control arm, you can see that the subframe ties into the corner of the rear frame system. I based the tubular sub frame connectors after the Alston subframe connectors that I installed on my 96 F-body. The stock frame rail replacements or covers look great and probably work fine, but I had plenty of roll bar tubing on hand (read... no extra cost to me) and I wanted to be able to jack up the car on the sides without fear of crushing something. My stock frame rail had little or no rust on it, but it had a bunch of dents in it from being jacked up. Since the replacement covers are also fairly thin, I thought that they would also get dented/bent from jacking the car from them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ed260Z Posted January 13, 2006 Share Posted January 13, 2006 I wanted to be able to jack up the car on the sides without fear of crushing something. My stock frame rail had little or no rust on it' date=' but it had a bunch of dents in it from being jacked up. Since the replacement covers are also fairly thin, I thought that they would also get dented/bent from jacking the car from them.[/quote'] Bad Dog also makes something for that; Are you going to weld in some tubing through the engine compartment, and tie it into the rest of the chassis? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jbc3 Posted January 13, 2006 Share Posted January 13, 2006 Are you going to weld in some tubing through the engine compartment, and tie it into the rest of the chassis? I did not go into the engine compartment with any additional tubing. After putting subs and a 6 point roll bar in, the car felt very stiff and I felt that I did more than enough for what I plan on using the car for. Occasional fun on the street and some 1/4 mile fun. I saw the side supports from Bad Dog, but again, the roll bar tubing was already "in inventory" and paid for. Jody Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
S15 200sx owner Posted January 15, 2006 Share Posted January 15, 2006 We don't make the front frame rail section because they are already being made by Charlie Osborne (Zeddfindings) up in Canada. His site is: http://www.datsunzparts.com and his email address is: zeddfind@kos.net A while back there were a few OEM front rail sets on ebay going for I believe $500/side' date=' but I could have remembered wrong.[/quote'] Hey thankyou for that, i havnt been able to find anyone who makes/sells them. Cheers! Do you know if they are stock replacements, or if they are made from thicker material? Thanks for your help. I am also very interested in your 240z frame rail extenstions to the rear frame when you make them, i wonder if somehow i could arange to get your extenstions plus the front rails from Zparts packaged and shipped over together to New Zealand to save on freight, any ideas? Thanks, Clint T Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ed260Z Posted January 16, 2006 Share Posted January 16, 2006 I believe they use thicker than stock metal, on all their parts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roostmonkey Posted January 17, 2006 Share Posted January 17, 2006 The Baddog parts are 12 ga coldrolled steel Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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