JMortensen Posted October 29, 2007 Author Share Posted October 29, 2007 Bringing this thread back from the dead as I am now ready to start filling dents all over the car. Based on numerous recommendations to use "marine epoxy filler" and Richard's mention of "West System" I've come up with the following potential bondo substitutes. Which is the right one for filling dents and finishing the edge of the drip rail? Microlight (seems easy to sand): http://www.marine.com/product_info.php/products_id/308 Low Density: http://www.marine.com/product_info.php/products_id/304 High Density (sounds like it's a bitch to sand): http://www.marine.com/product_info.php/products_id/297 Or is there another better product I should be looking at? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMortensen Posted October 29, 2007 Author Share Posted October 29, 2007 Based on some further reading, sounds like the low density is the way to go. Anyone care to back up that assertion? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Metallicar Posted October 30, 2007 Share Posted October 30, 2007 Here is a link to address your original lead question: http://autobodystore.com/forum/showthread.php?t=4994 In making repairs to areas with pinholes or old lead, I found a thread on autobodystore's rust repair forum suggesting Dynahair, another recommending All Metal filler. Every suggestion ( at autobodystore's forum) comes down to; use a layer of the waterproof filler and then a layer of your favorite finish filler like Rage Gold or Rage Extreme. Another good link: http://autobodystore.com/door_rust.shtml Sorry, I cant help you choose what West Product, but I guess you are on the right track with the low density stuff, since you will probably top coat it with a finer filler anyway. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bschiltz Posted October 30, 2007 Share Posted October 30, 2007 Try looking here, might be cheaper. http://www.jgreer.com/index.htm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shift Posted October 30, 2007 Share Posted October 30, 2007 Why not just use bondo and mix in some fiberglass resin? They use the same catalyst Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TravRMK Posted October 30, 2007 Share Posted October 30, 2007 How thick does the filler need to be? Tiger hair, is good if it needs to be a little thick, and kitty hair is good if it isn't as thick, then top it with a metal glaze after you sand it smooth. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMortensen Posted October 30, 2007 Author Share Posted October 30, 2007 Why not just use bondo and mix in some fiberglass resin? They use the same catalyst I don't know jack about body work, but I do know that there are 500 threads saying don't use bondo, as it is porous and will allow moisture into it and the sheetmetal can rust underneath it. I'll get a good deal on this stuff, because a friend of mine works at West Marine, which I guess is a pretty big company with 400 something stores in the US. As to how thick it has to be, there are no spots that I think will be deeper than 1/4", and that one 1/4" deep spot is a small dent in the roof that I put there spinning the car on the rotisserie when there was something underneath it. D'oh! The rest of it should be 1/8" or less I think. I'm not so much going for perfectly flat as I am trying to make it reasonably presentable. It's a track car, not a show car. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bjhines Posted November 4, 2007 Share Posted November 4, 2007 Hmmm.... Long strand fillers are a lot more like fiberglass resin, they take longer to set up and they are a bitch to mix, but they provide unparalleled strength and resistance to cracking. Medium strand and short strand fillers are much easier to form for filling holes and depressions. They are easy to mix and they set up quickly like bondo. Sandable fillers are often thin, easy to apply, and easy to sand. They set up quickly and are only suitable for small imperfections in layers less than 1/8" thick. These are the most used and most abused. As far as porosity, I am not sure everyone is on the same page here. I primed and sealed the areas I am applying filler. I also used OSPHO under everything. I could care less if they are porous. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rturbo 930 Posted June 18, 2009 Share Posted June 18, 2009 Jon, Could you rehost the pictures that were in this thread? None of them are showing up for me. I'd like to see the pictures you have since it looks like I'm going to be going through this exact same process. I knew there was rust because that flat area in the back wasn't flat, you can kinda see it pooched out on the last two pictures. Also there was a little rust on the flange where the quarter windows get screwed in.What do you mean by pooched out? Did it look like this? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMortensen Posted June 18, 2009 Author Share Posted June 18, 2009 I was referring to the bottom of the window opening and the metal was swelled out around all of the spot welds on the bottom there. You have a similar amount of rust in this area, by the looks of it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMortensen Posted June 18, 2009 Author Share Posted June 18, 2009 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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