painting a car with a roller...

[Guest tony78_280z]

Very interesting find. I think I'll give this a try when I get to the bodywork phase (after engine and suspension) It sounds like just the thing in that I could do one body piece at a time. And doesn't require an elaborate paint booth or other set up.

 

Has it been established in one of these very long threads that the tremclad and rustoleum products are one and the same?

 

I have one of those little mouse sanders that would make the fine sanding stages a breeze.

[Workinprogress]

Now their debating whether or not Tremclad and Rustoleum are indeed the same chemical mixtures. I read on the Rustoleum that I purchased here in the states to thin with Mineral Spirits or Acetone. There is way too much confusion on this subject. Screw this, Who's up for a trip to canada to load up on Tremclad!?!

[100]

Will this work on fiberglass parts?? I need to paint a bunch of fiberglass parts.

 

If so what type of paint do you suggest I use on fiberglass?

[Z-TARD]

First coat:

 

Second coat sprayed:

 

Dry:

 

Glossy enough to make my ears look like air brakes in the reflection.....

 

I mixed another batch of paint after the first coat, so the color is off a little. Needs a bit more red. Even at this early stage, I have trouble scratching it with a fingernail. Not impossible, but it takes a fair amount of effort. I have a third coat on it now, I'll wait a few weeks for that to fully cure and then do some serious durability testing on it. So far so good....

 

Mike

[Z-TARD]

Will this work on fiberglass parts?? I need to paint a bunch of fiberglass parts.

 

If so what type of paint do you suggest I use on fiberglass?

 

The rustoleum stop rust paint should work on fiberglass just fine, not sure about the other varients of rustoleum. To quote the guy in the original moparts thread "This stuff sticks like crap to a blanket"

 

Mike

[Guest tony78_280z]

ZTard, what type of rustoleum did you end up using. The professional or industrial? Are you going to experiment with the roller method? Please!

 

I expect a full write in one week including but not limited to

 

1. Documentation of the contriversial roller method.
   
2. Type of product used, as well as directions for mixing. Cost and location of purchasing the paint, mixing agent, and tools.
   
3. Techniques and tips for the roller method.

Just kidding, (no seriously!)

[Z-TARD]

I thought it was the proffesional, but on further inspection it's the standard Stop Rust paint: http://www.rustoleum.com/product.asp?frm_product_id=18&SBL=1

 

The roller method would probably work just as well, and I may end up trying that out as well. For now though I'm having way too much fun with my $9.00 Harbor Freight air brush At some point I'm also going to try out a bigger automotive type sprayer to see how badly I can choke myself out with mineral spirit vapors. The airbrush is definitely not bad at all, if the larger guns are not much worse I don't really see a problem with spraying it in a garage.

[Guest tony78_280z]

$9.00 Harbor Freight air brush

As in those air brushes people use on T-shirts and other artistic ventures? What kind of PSI is required to run that air brush and push that kind of paint thinned in that way?

 

You see... My first hobby was art. I used to be a fine artist and one of my favorite mediums was airbrushing. If I can use my old air compressor (35psi I believe) to push automotive paint,.. Muhahaha!!

[Z-TARD]

My El Cheapo brand airbrush works perfectly at 25 to 30 psi. I also have a small automotive detail gun that I got at Harbor Freight too, which I think would be much better for painting an entire car than the airbrush. It's supposed to run off 20 to 50 psi. I'll try it out at 30 and see how well it covers.

 

I'm sure that rollers would do the job just as well as a spray gun, but being in the Navy has really turned me off of paint brushes and rollers in general. There have been several occasions where I have either fallen asleep or passed out with either a paint roller or brush in my hand. Needless to say, I've done a lot of painting over the last 12 years. If I start rolling on paint on my Z, I'll probably fuzz out and get that thousand yard stare. Next thing you guys will see is pics of my car painted haze gray and covered with life preservers and fire extinguishers....

 

Mike

[Z0wner]

Keep us posted... That looks pretty darn good

[Wagz]

... I'm pretty impressed with how this paint sprays when thinned out. ...

Mike

Mike - How much did you thin the paint? I stopped at Home Depot tonight to check the labels on the Professional and 'standard' Stops Rust products. I know you sprayed yours on. The label says don't thin more than 5% when rolling/brushing. I would be concerned about the paint not self-leveling well enough when rolling on at only 5% thinning.

 

I also found this Rustoleum flyer. The paint dept. guy says they'll mix the colors right on site for you:

 

I won't paint the VR this way, but It's a viable option for my barnyard resurrected 260...

[100]

The rustoleum stop rust paint should work on fiberglass just fine' date=' not sure about the other varients of rustoleum. To quote the guy in the original moparts thread "This stuff sticks like crap to a blanket"

 

Mike[/quote']

 

Thanks Mike. The fiberglass I have has a gelcoat to it.

 

Should I sand that down first?

 

If so what grit do you or anyone suggest I use so I don't mess it up? New to doing body work.

 

And last will I need to prime the sanded fiberglass or just lay the rustolem paint?

[savageskaterkid]

can sombody post the pictures, everytime i try and look, the bandwith is exceded, does anybody have these in there temporary folder?

[Hypertek]

any idea if this stuff will shoot good out of a hlvp spray gun? just wondering, super cheap alternative then auto paint if it does come out good, and less worry about messing it up.

[Z-TARD]

Mike - How much did you thin the paint? I stopped at Home Depot tonight to check the labels on the Professional and 'standard' Stops Rust products. I know you sprayed yours on. The label says don't thin more than 5% when rolling/brushing. I would be concerned about the paint not self-leveling well enough when rolling on at only 5% thinning.

I won't paint the VR this way' date=' but It's a viable option for my barnyard resurrected 260...[/quote']

 

I thinned it out quite a bit. Probably about as thin as water. I takes a bit of trial and error, but you want it just thin enough to spray and remain liquid until it hits the surface of the car. Too thick and it either wont spray at all, will come out in blobs, or will start to dry before it hits the surface, resulting in a rough pebbled texture. Too thin and it will not cover very well, and will probably run all over. There seems to be a very wide window of viscosity that this stuff will spray in, however. I't would be pretty hard to thin it out too much or not enough if you just try to make it as much like water as possible. Basically just add mineral spirits until it just gets to a watery consistencty, and then stop. I use a toothpick to test it out, try one first in water to get a good idea of how it drips off the end of the toothpick, and then thin out the paint until it drips off in the same way.

 

Thanks for the tip on getting it mixed, I didn't think they would mix the rustoleum for some reason, I fiugured that was just for house paints. I might have to make another trip to Home Depot to see if they can make a better orange color than me.

 

Mike

[Z-TARD]

Thanks Mike. The fiberglass I have has a gelcoat to it.

 

Should I sand that down first?

 

If so what grit do you or anyone suggest I use so I don't mess it up? New to doing body work.

 

And last will I need to prime the sanded fiberglass or just lay the rustolem paint?

 

Not sure if it will need primer or not, but sanding down the gelcoat is probably a good idea to promote better adhesion. I'd just scuff the surface with some 320 or 400 grit sandpaper just enough to give the rustoleum something to bite onto. It should be OK to use without primer, but I'd advise testing on a small spot first to see how well it sticks, and how well it covers. Pick the piece you care about least, and do that one first

 

Mike

[Z-TARD]

any idea if this stuff will shoot good out of a hlvp spray gun? just wondering, super cheap alternative then auto paint if it does come out good, and less worry about messing it up.

 

Not sure about HVLP. I've never used that setup before, but this stuff shoots out of a standard setup better than a lot of other paint I've used. Cleanup with mineral spirits is really easy too. I'd say it's definitely worth a shot.

 

Mike

[pparaska]

When I was in college, my Z had a fire in the interior while we were welding in floor pans. The paint on the roof and sail panels were toast.

 

The rest of the car was kind of dull, not too bad.

 

After bodywork, I hit the roof and quarters with about a dozen spray cans of automotive spray can paint. BAD orange peel, but hey, it was 110 red/orange!

 

Anyway, a bit of wet sanding and the paint I had put on was smoother and shinier than the rest of the car! Didn't look have bad, really.

[100]

Thank Mike.

[dj paul]

i dont like using a primer with this stuff, it does run a little bit on your first coat but you sand it down a little and then put on another coat and it looks great! i even did it with a $2.35 brush (some paint brissles were a PITA tho). i did half my engine bay with primer and half just regular sanded and the regular sanded side dried way faster, (about 30 minutes) and looked better, the primer side took all night with my 500 watt lamps on it and it was still a little bit damp this morning. so IMHO just give it a good sanding.