Guest tony78_280z Posted April 24, 2006 Share Posted April 24, 2006 So basicaly what one can gather from this thread, is if the pin doesn't just pull out easily... one can expect to pay eiather a shop to press/pull it out for you or buy a pin puller. Probably $30.00 a pin And then replace the pin at $32.00 a pin + shipping. If one was to simply skip this pin and not replace it when he does the rest of the rear suspension what woud be the outcome now that this piece is the weakest link? I'm in the rust belt, odds are not in my favor. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CruxGNZ Posted April 24, 2006 Share Posted April 24, 2006 If they are the original bushings and you don't replace them, you will have some toe-in issues under acceleration and toe-out issues under braking. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Darrel Posted April 24, 2006 Share Posted April 24, 2006 So basicaly what one can gather from this thread' date=' is if the pin doesn't just pull out easily... one can expect to pay eiather a shop to press/pull it out for you or buy a pin puller. Probably $30.00 a pin And then replace the pin at $32.00 a pin + shipping. If one was to simply skip this pin and not replace it when he does the rest of the rear suspension what woud be the outcome now that this piece is the weakest link? I'm in the rust belt, odds are not in my favor. If there is resistance at the spindle pin pivot and the strut tube, leave them alone. If you take the assembly out and the strut tube flops over, then it's time for replacement. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
331CI 280z Posted April 25, 2006 Share Posted April 25, 2006 I used an air hammer on mine with good results. As long as you plan ahead for new ones, it shouldn't be a problem Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cameron Posted April 26, 2006 Share Posted April 26, 2006 LOL man o man, yeah this was me a year ago trying to pull them gay things off.... i hated them I ended up sawing them apart then hammering them for a few days and finally the shop press which took 3 guys 6 beers and a lot of lube!!! almost sounds like a gay porn man i hated them dam things!!! hated hated hated!!!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mom'sZ Posted April 26, 2006 Share Posted April 26, 2006 If one was to simply skip this pin and not replace it when he does the rest of the rear suspension what woud be the outcome I'm with Mat on this one man, do you really want to rebuild the whole suspension and leave one pivot point unserviced? It's a pain, but so are a lot of other things on cars, just do it. Mine required sawing off and air hammer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
j260z Posted April 27, 2006 Share Posted April 27, 2006 i had one set on my 260 that required alot of heat and then drilling followed by heat and pounding and pounding... the next set i did was from a 76 280 and all it required was a couple of taps with a hammer and they fell out. it is a real crap shoot when i comes to replacing these things. the real point here is that you have to be a real z fan to endure the pain of the process. we really should have a symbol next to our icons that denotes whether we have replaced our spindle pins or not. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CruxGNZ Posted April 27, 2006 Share Posted April 27, 2006 ^^^^^^ I agree 100%! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaleMX Posted April 27, 2006 Author Share Posted April 27, 2006 Yea, something like a "-SP". It's an experience I'll never forget. Oh Mat, the patches are great. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest tony78_280z Posted April 27, 2006 Share Posted April 27, 2006 Like a Merit badge or something LOL Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest tony78_280z Posted May 4, 2006 Share Posted May 4, 2006 So what are the odds of reusing one of these spindle pins once removed? 1> Pressed out 2> Pulled out 3> Tappaed out with a hammer 4> Beat out with a bigger hammer. Trying to descide if I should go ahead and buy replacements, or wait and see how bad it goes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CruxGNZ Posted May 4, 2006 Share Posted May 4, 2006 Just wait. One of my pins came out with a few taps, but the other one was a pain in the arse. You might get lucky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMortensen Posted May 4, 2006 Share Posted May 4, 2006 I got 3 out of 4 with the puller. the first one is still in it's strut. Maybe someday I'll need it bad enough to find a machinist to pull it out. All of the shops in this area knew what the Z spindle pin was and said no, if you can believe that... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest tony78_280z Posted May 4, 2006 Share Posted May 4, 2006 So what are the odds of reusing one of these spindle pins once removed? ??? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1 tuff z Posted May 4, 2006 Share Posted May 4, 2006 i've pulled 6/8 so far. the toughest were on my 73. soaked the beast, stripped the threads in the puller, new nut for puller-tried again, then stripped the spindle. ok [i'm gonna win this battle!], weld puller to spindle, heat bottom of strut [red hot], beat on one end [with an air chisel] while pulling the other, grunt & groan [the pin and me both] then finally it came out! other side pulled out cleanly with just the puller. go figure... so when do i get my meritz badge...badgez, i don't need no stinkin badgez Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMortensen Posted May 4, 2006 Share Posted May 4, 2006 So what are the odds of reusing one of these spindle pins once removed? If you remove them successfully, then you can reuse them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
j260z Posted May 4, 2006 Share Posted May 4, 2006 if you are going to try to reuse the pins, you should double up the nuts on the end of the pin and tap on the end of the nut to avoid mushrooming the end of the pin. if you are lucky, and can get them out without damaging them, you should buff off any corrosion and cover them in anti sieze compound. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ezzzzzzz Posted May 5, 2006 Share Posted May 5, 2006 I agree that many parts can be reused including the spindle pins. It is unlikely that you'll ever do this job again once considering how far out 30 years is. Pins and the cross bolts are cheap though. If you've gone this far why not finish the job right? I'd clean up the holes with a reamer or scotchbrite, lude them liberally with a good copper based antiseize, and install new hardware. The BIGGEST thing, as mentioned before, is to ensure the cross bolt and spindle pin are aligned PROPERLY. Don't use force to drive that bolt in. That is most likely why you've had trouble pulling the pin. Lightly tap the bolt in AND only tighten until the lock washer flattens. Better yet use a nylock nut and flat washer tightening until just snug. That bolt only has to prevent the pin from rotating so it doesn't take measurable torque. If it ever needs to be disassembled it will come apart much easier for you or the next owner. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Racin_Jason Posted March 4, 2007 Share Posted March 4, 2007 Jeez I just attempted my first spindle pin and I feel compelled to put my stamp on one of these threads as one of the poor bastards who has tackled a bad one. So much for CA cars not having majorly seized spindle pins. That sonuvabish was in there! After trying all standard and typical methods..i resorted to cutting the damn thing into 3 pieces through the spaces between the LCA and strut assembly. Tomarrow proves to be fun aswell..trying to get the pieces OUT. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dsommer Posted March 4, 2007 Share Posted March 4, 2007 Man you guy and these spindle pins. The EASIEST method is to take them to a shop that specializes in off road 4X4's and have them pressed out. They have the BIG equipment/presses to do this job quickly and inexpensivly. Even if it costs 15-50 dollars what is your time worth? Also many times the strut cartridge is "stuck" in the strut tube, they can remove these quickly too. On average it looks like it's taking folks 3 to 8 hours to removed the spindle pins with cussing, sweating, and possible cuts, burns and bruises. Just my .02 worth. I'd rather be working on the car than beating the crap out of a spindle pin. Work smarter not harder. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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