Spindle Pin Removal

[heavy85]

People keep saying it's easier than it can be ... and mine is a Cali car. I did in not particular order:

 

Plan A:

Pull (home made similar to loaner tool)

Beat

Heat & beat

Air hammer

Bigger hammer

More heat

 

Plan B:

Take to shop with a press .... then heat 'til cherry & press .... nothing

 

Plan C:

Drill it out using progressively larger drill bits from both ends and finally got them out. Here is what's left of one ... and it's better than the other I just can find the other one.

 

 

It'll take years off your life and I know for a fact took years off my poor drill.

 

Cameron

[john mcdonald]

My procedure on a 77 280 (perhaps I was just lucky): Wire brush fat side of pin lock and squirt some PB Blaster on it; break the nut loose and add another nut to bottom threads and tap it loose and remove nuts and tap out all the way; close off the hole at the bottom and fill with Blaster. Wire brush/blaster/remove spindle nuts. Make 1-2 washers to fit at end of the rear bushing area to get a flat base - I just had to grind a flat on 2 large washers for a 3/4" bolt so it would slip up against the irregular metal piece by the bushing. Then I used blaster on both ends of the spindle, stacked washers up and used a nut to pull the spindle out about a 1/4" at a time. It made a cracking sound every pull on the ratchet (Craftsman 11" long 3/8" drive). My first side took me 3 - 4 hours (including a trip to hardware store for more washers and a bronze spacer.) Next day I went to the Depot and got more washers and a couple 3/4" nuts.) I did try to hammer it a little, but just managed to put a little bend in the threaded area. My second side took about an hour or so and the last 4 inches just slid right out. I think the use of blaster was the answer for me. Since it works by capillary action, you only need a little squirt on the spindle and I did that every time I restacked the washers/spacers. I also used a vernier caliper with a depth gauge to measure progress between restackings to make sure I was actually doing something. I also would squirt a little Blaster in any opening where it might be able to work its way to the spindle. I am only putting in strut cartridges at this time and I also would use Blaster and let it work overnight rather than trying to get it done quickly. I used about 1/2 can of Blaster. I live in the rust belt and always have a couple cans on hand.

[Apollyon12]

I though I saw someone say that they where not going to use a replacement pin but use threaded rod instead. I think I see a few problems with this, but I am interested to know what other people think.

[redneck1545]

I used the tried and true beat the piss out of it with a hammer method.

 

First side took the better part of 10 mins, the second side took me about and hour and destroyed two 3/8" extensions as thats what i was using for my punch

 

as stated before, lube up with penetrating oil or some type of lubricant or else ure just wasting your time.

 

as far as the post ^^^^^^^^ there

 

 

using threaded rod is definitely a BAD idea, no go, and should not even be considered. Believe it or not there is a reason behind why these things cost $70.00 bucks for the pair and a typical all threaded rod from the hardware store is only a few dollars.

[NewZed]

Heat, via flame, on the strut housing works wonders. The cast iron will take a lot with no damage. If you're not replacing the bushings though, be careful not to damage the bushing rubber. If you are replacing the bushings, you can heat it hot enough to soften the rubber, and the center metal and rubber of the bushing might come out with the pin.

[New-to-240z]

If anyone wants my spindle pin puller, let me know. I'll sell it to ya for 30 shipped anywhere in the US.

 

Never been used as I just replaced the entire rear subframe with S13.

Edited December 24, 2010 by New-to-240z