Z0wner 260z :::Worklog:::

[Z0wner]

Post saved for future use. Hopefully once the vehicle is finished I'll put a few pictures here

 

and maybe a price list, etc.

 

Progression:

 

6/8/05

 

 

3/31/06

 

 

5/4/06

 

 

7/4/06

 

 

7/16/06

 

[BillZ260]

good idea, I wish I'd have done something like that, all I can do is pretty much guess.

 

Looks good, if you know access you could build a quick and easy entery form and stick it in quickly when your done working on the car.

[Z0wner]

All right, I am going to briefly describe what I did from the purchase of my vehicle up to now. I purchased the vehicle off ebay on June 8, 2005 for $760.00 US. It was located approximately 150 miles away from my house and was not in road-safe condition. I had it shipped from the previous owner to my driveway for about $250.00 US. Unfortunately, I am a high school student, and like many other high school students, I did not think about the long run costs. So there I was with the vehicle I wanted to restore with only a little money to put towards it. Here are some pictures of what happened from summer to now.

 

 

 

Lets make this quick

 

=========================

First purchased the vehicle

 

 

Decided to pull the engine

 

 

Well, pretty much removed the interior and most of the body panels

 

 

 

=========================

 

And this brings us up to 3/31/06. I will continue to post as I have progressed more, but I need time to format pictures, write a description, and list some other things.

 

Plans for the vehicle-

- I hope to either do a l28et swap, or a SBC swap. We will see

- I hope to do a body kit, probably subtle Z kit if it happens

- I would like to paint the vehicle a fairly dark grey/silver. Actually, the titanium grey from a 350z

- Konig Rewinds

- Upgrade suspension and lower the ride

- New Interior

- Manual conversion possibly (less likely)

- Dark tinted windows all except Front

 

Only time will tell as the project gets farther along

 

Links to some of my other posts:

 

--http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=108583&highlight=Z0wner

--http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=106983&highlight=Z0wner

 

Well, I thinks this wraps it up for the day. I will be adding more pictures to these from this period, so its not a single picture or anything. Pictures are a thousand words and the more the pictures say, the less I have to write... so expect more pictures to come in this post and future posts.

 

Thanks for your time,

 

Z0wner

[Z0wner]

Date: 3/31/06

Time Spent: 4 hours

 

Parts: 2 packs of 120 grit sand paper

Cost: approximately $5.00

 

What was done:

 

Well, worked with my Dual Action sander trying sand down the exterior of the Z. Really took a long time to get any of it done. I have a 60 gallon Air Compressor and every ten minutes I would have to let it catch up for a couple of minutes. Pretty annoying. So, sanded down quite a bit of the outer body, trying to make it look decent.

 

Problems:

 

-I did find a very thin coat of bondo on the roof

-Looks like the vehicle was rear ended at one time. On the right rear quarter panel there was a fairly large amount of Bondo

 

Pictures:

 

So, here is what the vehicle looks like now

 

Exterior-

 

 

On the picture to the left, if you look at the right rear quarter panel, you will see the bondo. Unfortunately I forgot to get a good picture of it.

 

 

Interior-

 

 

Some of the nasty spots (all pictures except the picture of the cowl area and the second picture, the rear of vehicle, are of the left and right rocker panels)

 

 

I have many more pictures, but they did not seem very important too me. If anyone would like to view them or any other image in full resolution, go ahead and send me a PM. I would not mind sending them via email.

 

Thanks for your time,

 

Z0wner

[RB26powered74zcar]

Looking good brother.... most of us have been at that stage with our Z's. It takes time and $$.

 

Your early 260 looks to be pretty solid except a couple spots, which shouldn't be to hard to fix. Make sure to replace those doors with some with NO rot at the bottoms. If you try and fix yours, you'll end up kicking yourself in the rectum for not picking up a good rust free pair. The rust will come back in the bottom of those doors... trust me, I know from experince...

 

Just get a pair from AZ. or Calif. and undercoat the inside real good after drilling bigger weep holes and cleaning out the drain holes that are already there.

[Z0wner]

Date: 4/01/06

Time Spent: 1 hour

 

Parts: Black and Decker Grinder tool and a pack of Scratch Pads

Cost: Grinder $40.00 Scratch Pads $8.00

 

What was done:

 

Went to the store to get some more sand paper. Browsing the aisle there something that looked interesting. It was a sanding disc called 3M Sandblaster or something like that.(Pictures below) So, decided to try them and bought a grinder in the process. The grinder + sandblaster pads worked like a dream. Unreal, period. It took approximately one hour to do what a DA took 4 hours. It didn't even created any bad scratches and even left a polished look.

 

Problems:

 

-Well, sanded the bondo down on the right rear quarter panel and saw that it wasn't horrible, but is still not the best

 

Pictures:

 

Alright, first of all, here is a picture of these blaster pads.

 

 

And here are some misc pictures of the vehicle now.

 

 

Here is a picture of the Right Rear Quarter Panel. Notice there are holes from where they tried to pull the dent.

 

 

Also found a link that I found useful for future reference

 

- http://www.carcraft.com/howto/3065/

 

Thanks for your time,

 

Z0wner

[Z0wner]

Date: 4/02/06

Time Spent: 45 minutes

 

Parts: 3 packs of Sandblaster Scratch Pads

Cost: Scratch Pads $24.00

 

What was done:

 

Liked the sandblaster pads so much that I bought more. Works like a charm, beautiful. It started to sprinkle so I rolled the car in and picklex 20(ed) it. Also another product I am enjoying.

 

Problems:

 

-Rear of vehicle has a few rust spots.

 

Pictures:

 

Here is what the vehicle looks like after today.

 

 

Pictures of Doors: (drivers on left, passenger side is the right picture)

 

 

The weather:

 

 

 

Thanks for your time,

 

Z0wner

[Guest ON3GO]

looks great..

few tips....

get that sucker in paint soon, primer atleast.

you will cause your self more problems leaving it in bare metal, rust builds so fast that way.

when you do start to lay paint, you need to feather edge better, you will see all those hardlines in the old paint/filler if you leave it that way (im sure you knew that though).

 

have fun and keep up the good work! will turn out great im sure!

 

mike

[Z0wner]

looks great..

few tips....

get that sucker in paint soon' date=' primer atleast.

you will cause your self more problems leaving it in bare metal, rust builds so fast that way.

[/quote']

Its not bare metal. It has been brushed with a product called Picklex20. Its a rust converter and a steel protector. So far it has worked as advertised. Beautiful.

 

As for the paint and left over body filler, yes, it will be removed before we get it into primer. Hopefully this week we will buy a MIG welder (millermatic 175) and the steel needed for a rotisserie. Then the car will be on the rotisserie and we will blast the interior/engine compartment/underside with proper media. Once blasted, repair the rust and possibly add a body kit.

 

Only time will tell.

 

Thanks for your time,

 

Z0wner

 

Link: http://www.picklex20.com/

[2126]

Good idea, documenting your rebuild! Plus it fun to look back on all the things that transpired when you get it back to a driver. And if you ever decide to sell it (god forbid), documentation and photos are worth their weight in gold! Its one thing to say you did something and another when you have documented proof. I kept a daily log during my rebuild (many many pages) and it has come in very handy when trying to recall some specific detail for someone asking a question in the forums.

[Z0wner]

That is exactly my thinking. If for some reason this vehicle is sold. (To buy another Z of course!) It will help with the selling value and also will also be great documentation for future reference. I was thinking to myself, "Man it would be cool to have a log from beginning to end of a Z project. This could be used by some other person that is looking into buying a Z, or has purchased a Z and wants to see what is done and the time it takes to invest."

 

So, I made this log.

 

Some news:

 

-ordered a millermatic 175 mig welder off ebay, hopefully it will be hear by 4/6/06

 

Now, gotta find a decent helmet for under $100 hopefully even under $50

[Z0wner]

Date: 4/02/06

Time Spent: 5minutes

 

Parts: Millermatic 175 mig Welder

Cost: $750

 

What was done:

 

Nothing done specifically to the vehicle, but the welder came today! Ordered it on 4/2/06 and now its finally here. Looks great, now to wire it all up. Hmmm... I wonder if I have any more room in in my circuit breaker. Now, for the first experiment I think its decided that a rotisserie is going to be built. Rotisserie plans link provided on bottom of page.

 

Problems:

 

-None

 

Pictures:

 

 

Link:

- http://www.harwoodperformance.bizland.com/1941buick/Editorial_20.htm

 

Thanks for your time,

 

Z0wner

[rubin]

i had always thought of using 2 motor stands. of course they would need to be high enough so the car would swing all the way, maybe if the stands were mounted backwards, or modified so the height could be adjusted

[Lunar240z]

Jon, or "ls1240z" made his with 2 engine stands

he had to make them taller though.

[Z0wner]

Date: 4/16/06 --HAPPY EASTER--

Time Spent: 2 hr

 

Parts:

-100' 10g wire for the welder

-steel pipe for welder outlet

-welder plugs: male x 1 female x 1

-wall plug

-circuit breaker

-50' 10g extension cable for welder

Cost: $120

 

What was done:

 

Again, nothing was done specifically to the vehicle. We did wire up the welder. Running cable 60ft from one side of the house to the other is a pain in the rear. Hopefully, this will be the last time. Maybe next week we I'll get a mask for the welder or buy the steel required for the rotisserie. It looks like it will cost approximately $400 for cut steel. Still looking around though.

 

Problems:

 

-None

 

Pictures:

 

Do you really want pictures of a outlet mounted on a wall?

 

Thanks for your time,

 

Z0wner

[rubin]

400$ for steel

why not get a couple engine stand for like 75$ a piece and modify then for another 20$???

 

then when your done with the car u got an engine stand too?

[Z0wner]

I'm not sure if its ignorance or what, but I will probably be doing another project car after this one, which may not be a Z-car (shame, shame, but it depends on my brother). I could probably do the engine stand, but I think I would personally feel a little more safe with a actual rotisserie. Plus, I can use this little project as practice for my welder.

 

$200 for a couple engine stands modified does not sound to bad though. If you have a link I may take a look at it. We'll have to wait before anything final is actually done. Whether to build a rotisserie or go ghetto with some engine stands.

[rubin]

http://www.canadiantire.ca/assortments/product_detail.jsp?FOLDER%3C%3Efolder_id=1408474396669458&ASSORTMENT%3C%3East_id=1408474396670271&bmUID=1145264780935&PRODUCT%3C%3Eprd_id=845524442200699&assortment=primary&fromSearch=true

 

I know its CANADIAN TIRE, but im sure you wouldnt have any trouble finding the same or better where you live, its just the first place i looked

 

$79.99 CAD so about $50 USD, rated for 750lbsx2=1500lbs I dont think the shell alone would weigh that much, but if your next project does, you could easily reinforce it (practice your welding). all you'd have to do is cut it and extend it (practice your welding)

 

I wouldnt say its ghetto either, got perfectly placed swivel wheels and perfectly strait. good luck trying to make a better one

[Z0wner]

I looked into the engine stands, and so far it doesn't seem like to bad of an option.

 

I am looking for a welder mask. Something that isn't more than 100 dollars. Does anyone have any suggestions?

[OlderThanMe]

Harbor freight has a $65 auto darkening helmet that is pretty good. sometimes the price goes down to $50 when they have a sale. Northern Tool has the same helmet for more expensive. Just bbe sure if you go to H.F. to get the 2 year warranty. The helmet will die after 1.5-2 years and the warranty will save you. or you could get a speedglas for $250-$350 depending on the options you get.