caen fred Posted May 15, 2006 Share Posted May 15, 2006 An easy way to change the sills please? How to unweld the old one without damaging even more the car ????? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
260DET Posted May 16, 2006 Share Posted May 16, 2006 Sills AKA rocker panels. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lunar240z Posted May 16, 2006 Share Posted May 16, 2006 drill out the spotwelds and cut it off carefully... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
caen fred Posted May 16, 2006 Author Share Posted May 16, 2006 What kind of drill bit work the best? All the one I have should really go trough both pannels as metal bits have a deep V head shape Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
frank280zx Posted May 16, 2006 Share Posted May 16, 2006 about 10 MM Hss works or a tapared drillbit Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DavyZ Posted May 16, 2006 Share Posted May 16, 2006 about 10 MM Hss works or a tapared drillbit They make special drillbits specifically made for spotwelds, but I have never used them. Are they overkill? Might be something to look at if they are not too expensive. Davy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMortensen Posted May 16, 2006 Share Posted May 16, 2006 When I removed my framerails I started using a drill bit, and I kept going through. Someone suggested using a cutoff wheel, and that worked a lot better. Might be some spots at the front and back of the rocker where it would be hard to get a cutoff wheel in position, but if you have one, it works good on the ones with good accessibility. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zhadman Posted May 16, 2006 Share Posted May 16, 2006 They make special drillbits specifically made for spotwelds' date=' but I have never used them. Are they overkill? Might be something to look at if they are not too expensive. Davy[/quote'] They're not overkill. I have used them on my project since day one and have found them to be quite usefull. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DavyZ Posted May 17, 2006 Share Posted May 17, 2006 Someone suggested using a cutoff wheel, and that worked a lot better. Might be some spots at the front and back of the rocker where it would be hard to get a cutoff wheel in position... Heck yes. I imagine that an angle grinder would do the same job--just be prudent as to how much pressure one puts on the tool. They're not overkill. I have used them on my project since day one and have found them to be quite usefull. Thanks for the info! Davy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
caen fred Posted May 17, 2006 Author Share Posted May 17, 2006 looking at the rockers I think that I will use the drills. My garage is in a condo and I don't want to make too much noise (cutoff are very noisy) and some parts are overlaping so the drill is the only oprion there:icon56: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kcelectronics Posted May 17, 2006 Share Posted May 17, 2006 Hi The sill is one of the trickiest jobs to do! And not wanting to burst your bubble but if you need to ask how to do this, then are you sure you are up to the job? It has 3 pieces that are spot welded to form a strong structure You need to support the chassis very well as the whole car will sag in the middle if you don’t!! also the rear of the sill runs in behind the lower front part of the rear quarter panel? You need to decide if you want to fit the whole sill or stop at the back of the door opening where the sill disappears behind the rear Qtr panel (this is usually the area where water gets between the sill and this lower Qtr panel and rusts out, I have added a picture from Mulls marathon restoration. The method I use is to cut/grind along the 90deg. Fold on the sill where it is spot-welded togeather and remove the main part (this will leave the actual flange where the spot welds are) then start at one end and grind through each spot-weld and pull/leaver up this remaining ½†wide strip, this should leave the area where the sill was mounted easily accessible to be cleaned up ready for the new sill! Gee it sounds so easy when you type it!!!! Also here is a link to a UK site for the replacement for an MG which have the same basic layout as the Z http://www.mgcars.org.uk/cgi-bin/gen5?runprog=mgoc&p=emg/sillrepa.htm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
caen fred Posted May 17, 2006 Author Share Posted May 17, 2006 Thanks for the advice... but hey, I am no architect but still I managed to built my own house… the roof is still on top of it! I am no PHD but I run my own business since 1990! Hell, I don’t even speak English!!!!!!!!!!!! I am what you could call a guy of challenge. I am not going to be beaten by a piece of metal. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
frank280zx Posted May 17, 2006 Share Posted May 17, 2006 your car wont sag.. i have a parter with both rockers and roof cut off and it is still not VISABLY bent.. however i would make a supportbeam under the car and dont let it sit with a cut open piece to long. good luck Wait you dont speak English ... well babelfish it ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kcelectronics Posted May 18, 2006 Share Posted May 18, 2006 your car wont sag.. i have a parter with both rockers and roof cut off and it is still not VISABLY bent.. however i would make a supportbeam under the car and dont let it sit with a cut open piece to long. good luck It may not be VISABLE it but it WILL sag in the middle!! just try it and then check the door gaps if they will still fit? the sill is one of the main contributors to the strength of the chassis! And if you take it out what do you think is stopping it from sagging? I didn’t say you would see it sag, but trust me it will. Also you are better to weld in the new sills with the doors fitted, so you can check the gaps and the open and closing, this way you can adjust any alignment problems before you weld in the new one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
caen fred Posted May 19, 2006 Author Share Posted May 19, 2006 Remind me of a friend’s car, a Peugeot 404 convertible. An old unibody rusty nasty car, but quite good lookin' He couldn't open both doors at the same time or... He had to put weight at both end to close them again. Until one day the trunk of the car, jealous of the front engine bay with the noisy stinky engine, decided that it was about time to live its own life and parted from the rest of the car!!!! You know what? I have a laser beam that I will use for science sake!!! I will let you know it moves or not! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
huwwatki Posted May 19, 2006 Share Posted May 19, 2006 nothing wrong with 404's i drive one as my daily while i finish my zed! doesn't get me to places quickly but hasn't let me down yet!! bit of character never hurt anywone as far as spot welds go....you can get the spot-weld bit...but just use a normal one and take a bit of care...if you're really unsure get a mate to show you how it's done. Also, as mentioned earlier....make sure it is supported, I have seen someone fixing one without supporting.....the gaps went to hell.. even if it seems unnecessary, 10 minutes (or less) extra may save you a whole lot of grief. good luck Huw Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
frank280zx Posted May 19, 2006 Share Posted May 19, 2006 Like i said suport it, but when you cot one side off and then wel it up im prettu sure nothing will happen ( my experiance) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest manntis Posted May 19, 2006 Share Posted May 19, 2006 It may not be VISABLE it but it WILL[/b'] sag in the middle!! just try it and then check the door gaps if they will still fit? the sill is one of the main contributors to the strength of the chassis! And if you take it out what do you think is stopping it from sagging? I didn’t say you would see it sag, but trust me it will. +1. I'ts a good idea to set up a temporary jig in the middle to support the weight of the car and hold the front and rear still in relation to each other. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
caen fred Posted May 25, 2006 Author Share Posted May 25, 2006 As the car is going to be used for drag racing... I think I may weld the cage first, then do the sills????? If the body moves with the cage in it, I ain't going to drive it but turn it in most outrageous paper weight of history Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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