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Oil pan hole?


RedFive

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I have to warn you, this question is about a Jetta, but I think the solution will be universal -- plus I didn't know who else to turn to. I don't want to join some wimpy Jetta forum!

 

Anyways, my girlfriend hit a rock with her jetta and now there is a hairline slice in it, maybe 1/2 to 1 inch long. It only drips very slightly. Perhaps a drip every 5-10 seconds, but I didn't time it.

 

Anyways, how can I fix this? Obviously buying a new pan is an option, but the usual parts places (Autozone, pepboys, etc) don't seem to carry it. I found it on ebay for 30 bucks, but that seems too cheap.

 

Welding it shut is obviously an option, but I don't trust my welding skills enough to not burn a hole through the damn thing.

 

What about soldering? Would that stick to steel? I'm assuming it's steel. I guess it's possible that it's aluminum...anybody know?

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Auto parts stores aren't going to carry what are essentially "crash parts" ie parts that only break when YOU break them, not through general wear and tear. These are the types of things we like to charge outrageous sums of money for here at the dealership, because you can't get them anywhere else. If $30 isn't enough for you, head on down to a VW dealer and see what they're asking for one. If you don't think you can fix it, I'd recommend replacing it. Why don't you try calling a salvage yard?

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Since this is just a Jetta why not use JB Weld. You'll need to clean the crack/hole and make sure oil doesn't drip in. My trick is to hook another car to the PCV line and generate low pressure in the engine. This will keep oil from coming out when you put the expoxy on. Seems to work well for quick silocone repairs too.

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You can braze it. Even better you can braze a patch over it. If you are going to try and mig weld it (or even tig for that matter) as with the brazing, best to put a patch over it. Cleaning a crack of the oil will be difficult. For example, if the crack is 1" long, cut a patch 1" wide and 2" long and weld it around its circumference. Much less likely to burn a hole in the pan also this way as there's no edge of the pan exposed, just the patch.

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Well, I determined that's it's aluminum. And I've never welded aluminum before. I think I'm going to take it off and have the local welding shop put a bead in there or something. That won't cost much...maybe 20 or 30 I bet.

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Welding aluminum isn't very hard, its welding it clean thats the problem. you can do it with an oxy/acc torch. Need a CLEAN stainless steel wire brush and a aluminum welding rod. Clean its first (obviously), then clean the area and rod tip with the SS brush, heat rod tip first and then the pan. the aluminum isn't going to flow like TIG welding, its going to be the consistencey as snot. You just have to force the rod slightly into the crack when it gets to that consistencey, while heating both rod and pan.

 

You can always you exoy or JB weld, but you have to clean the area really well and use a wire brush to rough up the surface.

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I like the patch idea, but if you don't have the materials you'll probably be looking at at least $30 anyway, so unless you want to try and learn a new skill, I'd just get the ebay pan.

 

They usually bone you on shipping.

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J B Weld!!!!!!!! I've used it many many, many, many,....well lets just say I KNOW it works! I ride a stunt bike, and crash alot. I Have J B Welded my radiator, stator cover, clutch cover. Hell I even did my header!! All the covers on my bike are alum. The header was a bad idea it burned through that. You have to clean the area very good!

 

I would drain the oil. Let the car stand for a good hour or so to let the oil stop dripping. clean the area with brake cleaner, then scar it up with a dremel, sand paper, file. Then hit it with the brake cleaner again. Let dry 5 min. then J B Weld the snot out of it. Let stand 24 hours. fill with oil and drive. The J B Quick weld dries with in an hour. but I would go with the regular stuff.

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