Miles Posted September 22, 2006 Share Posted September 22, 2006 Given: 72 240z with all bushings replaced with poly U throughout 4 months ago, toyota 4x4 S12 calipers installed a year ago, rear brake cylinders replaced two years ago, new rear shoes 3 months ago, ball joints and outer tie rod ends replaced 6 months ago, Arizona Z springs and Tokico blues installed a year ago. Three weeks ago I replaced the right stub axle and inner and outer bearings. Had two mechanics check out the steering and all suspension for looseness and alignment. All was ok. I have go under the car and checked everysuspension part and everything is tight and functional. Car has 16 inch rims. Recently, the car will pull left, streighten out and then pull right, streighten out and then be ok for a mile and then repeat the wandering. I do get some slop when turning the steering wheel back and fourth and can hear some clunking as the steering moves and takes up the slack in the steering rack and other steering components. It feels like an invisable hand is pushing the steering wheel left then right and it is worse on rough roads. The car stops well, will pull left or right slightly at random times. The only thing I have done about the same time as the wandering started was to adjust the master vac push rod out a little to take up some slack in pedal travel. I know that adjusting the push rod out too far can lock up the brakes. The wheels spin free and the brakes don't drag. Could this be caused from adjusting the MC push rod out or sticky brake calipers? Miles Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dr_hunt Posted September 22, 2006 Share Posted September 22, 2006 First off, quit driving with no hands, I don't care if your ma is looking or not! Sounds like the steering rack is worn out. Roads do have grooves in them, some more noticeable than others. Roads are not flat either, some slope one way or the other. I would imagine that you need a new steering R&P. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Miles Posted September 22, 2006 Author Share Posted September 22, 2006 Steering rack sounds expensive. DANG IT. Thanks Miles Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zmanco Posted September 22, 2006 Share Posted September 22, 2006 You may have already considered what I'm about to suggest, but since you didn't mention it in your first post, I'll bring it up: 1) How wide are your front tires? Wider tires will track ruts and depressions in the road more than narrow. 2) What is the offset of your rims? On a stock 240 it was 0". If your's is something else, a rut in the road can cause the pulling you describe. 3) The play in your steering along with the sounds you describe do sound like the rack. Have you checked the preload? To do this, you need to remove the large hex head near where the steering linkage goes into the rack. I forget the details of how to set it, but you might get lucky and find that it's loose and tightening it might remove some of your slop. Doubt it would get rid of all of it though. Let us know what you find out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Miles Posted September 22, 2006 Author Share Posted September 22, 2006 Tires are 7inch and rims are 0 offset. I have had the tires and rims for about a year and didn't experience the wandering which came on just recently. I'll try adjusting the preload. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jbk240z Posted September 22, 2006 Share Posted September 22, 2006 having someone turn the steering wheel while you check for slop in the rack to tie-rod movement. Good luck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
buZy Posted September 22, 2006 Share Posted September 22, 2006 Might want to check the steering linkage isolator and look for worn u-joints. How about a loose steering wheel nut? It's all possible. Check everthing for movement from the wheel to rack ends. A while back I had the same problem, mainly the isolator was worn so as to replace it with something solid made a huge difference. Brian Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1 tuff z Posted September 22, 2006 Share Posted September 22, 2006 the shop manual describes rack preload adjustment as follows: [to the best of my recall] loosten large jamb nut, tighten firmly screw [takes a pretty big flat tip] then back off 20-25 degrees, tighten jamb nut. you can also [depending on your model year z] remove the plugs near the preload area and on other side and install zerk [grease nipple] fittings and give your rack a lubing. hope this helps... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pop N Wood Posted September 22, 2006 Share Posted September 22, 2006 Might want to check the steering linkage isolator and look for worn u-joints. I second that. My U joint down at the rack was worn out causing just what you said. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnc Posted September 22, 2006 Share Posted September 22, 2006 Check front alignment. Make sure toe is around 1/16" in. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Miles Posted September 23, 2006 Author Share Posted September 23, 2006 I found that the u-joint next to the steering coupler is very loose and will have to replaced. Are the u-joints on the steering shaft still available? Miles Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pop N Wood Posted September 24, 2006 Share Posted September 24, 2006 Well, since no one is offering more current info, I know when I replaced mine maybe 15 years ago they were no longer available. I had to buy a used shaft from MSA. Unless someone comes up with more current info on new parts, try http://www.baddogparts.com , http://www.zbarn.com or http://www.zcarparts.com Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
strotter Posted September 24, 2006 Share Posted September 24, 2006 I had the same problem with the U-joints in the steering shaft - just worn out. As I recall (and this has been a couple of years now) they are 10mm i.d., 15mm o.d., a bearing is hard to find for some reason - at least, my source couldn't find them for a rebuild. I was considering having the whole thing machined oversize for 16mm o.d. bearings, which are apparently everywhere but lucky for me, I found a 280 at the junkyard with a good U-joint and went that way. Determining if they're bad is tough, because they're so small, and the slop so tiny, it takes a *very* delicate touch to feel it. Also I found that the presence of grease can "mask" the slop. Note that the bearings are just staked in place - easy disassembly with a Dremel or similar tool. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Miles Posted September 24, 2006 Author Share Posted September 24, 2006 What all is envolved to remove the steering shaft. Looks like I will have to pull the entire steering column to get the shaft out. Once the column is out how do I remove the shaft from the outer column? Cir clip retainer, nut? While I have it apart I should replace the u-joint where the shaft connects to the rack. Is that lower u-joint available. What year 280 steering shaft fits the 240? Thanks Miles Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pop N Wood Posted September 24, 2006 Share Posted September 24, 2006 I notice zbarn lists replacement joints for $25. I have never pulled the joint at the top of the shaft. Call Z barn and see if they sell just the joint or the whole unit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Miles Posted September 24, 2006 Author Share Posted September 24, 2006 That u-joint next to the coupler appears to be an intregal part of the steering shaft. Seems like I will need to replace the upper section of the shaft with one that has a les worn u-joint. Miles Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Miles Posted September 26, 2006 Author Share Posted September 26, 2006 Anyone ever buy a steering rack from: The Steering Store? Victoria British? Autozone? The Z Barn How would you rate the quality? THanks Miles Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Miles Posted November 5, 2006 Author Share Posted November 5, 2006 I have replaced the steering rack with a remanufactured unit from the Steering Store. The steering rack came with new inner tie rods. I have replaced the outer tie rod ends and ball joints. The car was aligned after the the parts were replaced. There is still a clunk coming from the left inner tie rod where it connects to the steering rack when I have someone move the steering wheel back and fourth. The car still randomly pulls left. Sometimes it is a good tug to the left. I have rechecked the upper and lower steering shaft U-joints and they are tight. I placed my hand around the left inner tie rod connection and feel/hear a clunk when the steering wheel is turned right and left. Should there be any play at the inner tie rod connection? Thanks Miles Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
naviathan Posted November 5, 2006 Share Posted November 5, 2006 Not that I recall. All connections and joints should be tight with no play. Isolate the source and replace the part. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Miles Posted November 5, 2006 Author Share Posted November 5, 2006 I used Napa tie rod parts before. This time I will buy the OEM outter and inner tie rod assembly ($122 each side). Thanks Miles Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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