Chris Rummel's easy follow RB into Z wireing guide

[chrism]

Yes.

I have an RB20DET.

[jtmny1999]

Yes.

I have an RB20DET.

 

Thanks! That will save me 70 bucks for that damn autometer adapter, the summit one didn't work:emo:.

[Rumnhammer]

Hi all, very happy to see people adding lots of useful information since I checked in last. This was my intention of this thread, so it would evolve as new info developed to be shared by this community and answer the questions that have come up since I originally posted this info.

I'm very chuffed.

 

Also a sad update, on the car that I did for my friend (the one in this thread) he had a bad bad cooling fan relay failure that consequently caught the rubber pad over the hots in front of the battery on fire and badly damaged the wiring in that area. Good thing he had a good neighbor that pulled the hood open and got the fire out with a minimum of damage. Bad news is that he had just got the car painted! Also it looks like it is fixable so his RBZ will live again.

 

Once again cudos for additional info to help this thread evolve.

Chris Rummel

[rayaapp2]

using a STOCK S30 tach.

 

I havent tried this yet, but being that I have been pretty successfully adapting these things to alot of different engines this should work.

 

Find yourself one of those GM HEI modules. The ignitor unit as it is often called.

The particular unit I use is the 4 pin one. Im sure the others could be used but I dont have the pinouts for them.

 

 

W - Ground

G - Input from MF01 thin yellow/blue stripe that goes to pin 7 on the ecu

C - To Tach

B - Ignition/Power Source B+

 

Before you go connecting this maybe someone with more electrical experience will chime in and help out.

 

Also Note thatthis will work for the 3 wire tachs and those with 4 wires(the one with the loop) will have to figure this out on there own.

[Bishopsrock]

Hi Ray, thanks for contributing that. I currently have the R33 tacho mounted in my S30 pod and it works fine but this is only a temporary measure for me. My goal is a total stealth street sleeper and so I need to go back to the standard S30 gauges.

 

I am going to give your idea a try so have you any idea what models & years this was fitted too?

 

Thanks

[rayaapp2]

As far as the ignitor chip goes

 

GP Sorensen part number EL102

Wells part DR100

 

I have no idea what cars came with 3 wire tachs. My 71 has one and my 74 has one. My cars were already 30 years old by the time I got them so who knows if they were stock.

 

Ray

[rayaapp2]

I am having problems following the harness install.

Everything is the same cept for a few little things.

I dont have 2 large white connectors only one and I only have 1 relay on the relay pack.

The harness is stock and there are no cuts. Ive pulled out said wires from the harness and traced them back. I have wire diagrams from two sources that are corresponding but they are obviously wiring for dummies diagrams with no color or wire sizes, much less connector numbers and such.

So After getting through all the wires and tracing them I came up with a missing wire and relay. The thick red wire is missing from my harness. If I had to guess it goes to that second relay. The only vital piece of info I left out is that my engine and harness are from a 94 R33 and its a S2 motor without the ignitor pack.

Anyone have a clue what I need to change.

 

Im searching for a proper harness diagram in the mean time to try and sort out my problems. I plan on doing a write up myself when Im done with the swap. Then S2 owners can install.

 

Ray

[Bishopsrock]

Ray, are you installing an RB25 or an RB26?

 

If you pm me you email address then I will forward you the little that I have found and used to help me. Presumably you have downloaded the engine manual - about 23 megs worth?

 

Also, if you would like me to post a pic of my wiring then let me know and I will try to dig one out from my hard drive put it up here?

 

Good luck

[rayaapp2]

Ray, are you installing an RB25 or an RB26?

 

If you pm me you email address then I will forward you the little that I have found and used to help me. Presumably you have downloaded the engine manual - about 23 megs worth?

 

Also, if you would like me to post a pic of my wiring then let me know and I will try to dig one out from my hard drive put it up here?

 

Good luck

 

Ive downloaded the whole FSM about 148MB worth. I have a 94 RB25DET.

It appears the second relay is for the ignitor pack. So the circuit for that is gone on my harness. Its directly controlled through the computer. So the thick red wire is deleted as it delivers power to the ignitor pack.

 

I think that having a diagram in this thread would be a good idea for anyone else that comes across this problem. I wrote one up on a spare piece of paper as I took mine apart. I have a copy of the orginal schematic, but its in Japanese.

[rayaapp2]

http://www.datsunmotorsports.selfip.com/Ray%27s%20new%20Pictures%2007-08/DATSUNS/My%20260z/9-74/My%20RB25DET/rb25diagram.jpg

Right click and save

This is a 1.3MB pic of the harness.

This is most likely where Chris got his circuit numbers from as they correspond. Its the best diagram I ran across. maybe it will help someone.

[rayaapp2]

Coolant Temperature Sender unit.

 

Ive been on a man hunt for a while on this subject.

 

OE replacement for the RB sender is Wells TU84

OE replacement for the L series sender is Wells TU62

 

Im interested in the TU104, but I have no leads to believe it the one I need other than a picture that looks similar and the listing says Nissan/Datsun 1983-199X.

 

TS198 is special order and hard to get for me, but Im going to order it and hope it works.

 

OR I could have read this more carefully,

 

Chris couldnt find a straight swap for the water temp sensor in order to use the original Z gauge. Below from another thread the answer is now available

Quote:

Originally Posted by getoffmyinternet

I just realized today that Chris Rummel already discussed using the stock temp gauge for the rb swap. He confirms that the rb sensor will not work for the s30 gauge. Unfortunately he couldn't find the ohm specs on the l6 temp sensor, so he just used it and made an adapter hose to get it to work.

 

My hope is to figure out the specs of my l6 sensor and find an alternate sensor with the same specs but also the same size as the rb sensor so I can screw it into the stock port. If all else fails I can go his route, which isn't really bad at all.

 

Just got my RB25 in and running a couple of weeks ago. Ran into the same thing with the temp sensor, but wanted a more elegant solution than adding an aftermarket temp gauge or inline sensor. I usually have multiple projects going on at once, and for the first time it worked to to be a benefit. Knowing that Nissan crosses over many parts, I scoured the garage for a similar sensor. By pure luck, it didn't take long - I had a '91 240SX KA24DE on an eng stand, and sure enough the sensor matched size and style. Taking a multi-meter to it, it had the same resistance at ambient temp and the orig Z sensor. Lacking time, I went ahead and tried it out. Just as I hoped, it read just left of center on the stock Z gauge with the eng at operating temp. It even ran midway right of center one time when I forgot to hook up the electric radiator fan. The toyota one from Chris R's install article (LOTS of good info there) was too small in diameter and wrong thread pitch.

Hope this helps.

 

In the pic below starting from the left:

Stock '77 280Z, '91 KA24DE, stock RB25DET, Toyota one

Attached Thumbnails

 

__________________

Steve

 

Will try to find that sensor thanks Mike!

TS25541 ? Niehoff

That's it, my local Nissan dealer has 2 in stock for like 30USD, Im done fooling around. lol

Autozone lists TU84 wells for a replacement for the 91 240sx. The specs on the TU84 are no go for the z gauge.

[rayaapp2]

My TACH works. Stock tach! The HEI works.

 

Sorry going to redirect you to my thread rather than repost it here:

http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?p=968979#post968979

 

I have a huge rats nest under the passenger dash from tracing wires and Im going to have a fun time putting it all back together.

[z-ya]

I am going through an RB25 NEO R34 harness now in preparation for an install. The harness is quite different than an R33 RB25 harness. Do you guys want me to pot this info to this thread, or start a new one? I prefer to start a new one because there are significant differences.

 

Pete

[Rumnhammer]

If it is very radical changes to what has been posted, start a new thread if it is the same on the basic wiring etc, then just add the differences to the thread.

 

Chris Rummel

[z-ya]

I think it is different enough that it should be a separate thread. Just to minimize confusion. I will start the thread over the next week or so. I have photos and a schematic almost done.

 

Pete

[strokerzedd]

My R32 RB26 engine harness is quite different looking than Chris's RB25, I don't have the same 2 relays or large white connectors next to the Blue ECU plug. I'm just a little apprehensive cutting the harness up without a clear roadmap. I'm curious where the description "AF09" or "AF04" comes from, can't find them on the wiring diagram or R32 pinout diagram and it would help in following Chris's excellent thread. I don't have a main white connector upon which all of the work is being done. So am I instead cutting all of the wires down(only ten are used) not required from the blue ECU connector on the R32 RB26 engine harness? I've pulled the whole old wiring harness out of my 240z engine bay and I'm hoping to use the RB26 harness in it's entirety since it's almost 20 years newer.

 

The definitive answer to using an Autometer tach is to use the Summit Racing MSD tach translator #8918 for an RB26 transplant into a 1972 240Z?

[z-ya]

I have completed the mods to the RB25DE NEO harness (R34). I just need to update the schematic and I will post it.

 

The way I changed the harness was to make it completely stand alone. All new relays and fuses for the engine. In effect you could run the engine on a test stand with my harness only having to connect power, ground, and an ignition switch signal. I am leaving the stock 240Z engine bay harness because the lights and horns wires run through it. What I will pull back from the stock harness is the coil power, oil pressure, and coolant temp wires as those are in the RB harness. I will connect them to the RB harness under the dash.

 

Pete

[mike D]

I never leave messages on here so I hope this is the way to do it... Just wanted to thank Chris for this write up on rb's , he saved me alot of time. I changed some things but what he wrote up basically got my car running. I just need to tie up some loose ends and fab some things but my car rips! 71 240z rb25det.

 

Thanks Chris

 

Mike

[drunkenmaster]

I'm curious where the description "AF09" or "AF04" comes from, can't find them on the wiring diagram or R32 pinout diagram and it would help in following Chris's excellent thread.

 

Check post number #86 of the thread for the diagram with terminal ID's you're confused about.

[strokerzedd]

I'm close to firing my car up but still a little confused about wiring an Autometer Tach to an RB26 harness in my '72 240z. This is what I've gleaned from the whole thread from several people:

 

• An Autometer tach wired to the ecm's tach (Pin 7) signal will pop the resistor in the ECU. The Autometer tach needs a negative pulse as the signal, the stock Z gauge needs a positive 12v signal. Don't use a tach adapter. The tach adapter takes the negative signal and converts it to a positive 12v signal and will fry the 52 ohm resistor in the ECU for the tach signal. Summit Racing sells an msd tach translator #8918 to get an Autometer tach working for a diesel truck. Tap this into the white positive wire on the little two wire plug that's by the igniter, it's $49. My tach works perfectly.

 

• The "shunt" is a connector that is used by the dealer to plug a factory style timing light, could probably be tapped for the Autometer tach...It's the big white wire that goes from your coil plug, attached on the rear of the coil cover, through a splice, to a white connector with a little black box plugged on it that doesn't seem to have any purpose...

 

• This sounds like what is needed does anyone know if this would work for the tach? http://store.summitracing.com/partde...2&autoview=sku

 

• This is what I did to get my Autometer tach working:

Place 470 ohm resistor between the 12v pin and the Tach signal pin on the back of the Tach itself. This will act as a pull up resistor and provide enough power to drive the Tach.

 

So my question to those of you that have successfully wired an Autometer Tach to the RB26 harness, which hookup is safest/easiest/works and won't blow the ECU resister; and where's the best place to get the signal to run to the tach? I'm using an AEM 1621U ECU. Thanks.