Jump to content
HybridZ

RB or LS1 (advantages?)


Guest jmikell870

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 60
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

I think that's because to have the mindset of wanting 400hp you have to also be thinking gas mileage isn't an object. No matter what you do, more power equates to more heat, more wear, and more gas. That's why these guys run dual 255lph pumps... I'd be more interested to know what they make stock and go from there. Sometimes it's quite a surprise. My jeep got 15mpg and I was thinking that doesn't make sense. What am I getting out of a car if it is neither built for power or for mileage? I'll take 10mpg if it's a 10s car, or 50mpg if it's top speed is 65.

 

Some have claimed that turbos and blowers greatly increase mileage, but the only reason people see lower is because they strap them on to be able to punch it more. They say that this is because the turbo especially makes up more power than it uses, but fundamentally that doesn't make any sense to me. A machine that produces more than it uses. By definition, the more complex a machine, the less efficient. Obviously a turbo increases power, but that's simply because it lets the engine stuff more fuel. Anyway it all depends on the car. I'm gonna try to find out what my rb26 gets completely stock after I put it in, and hopefully the number won't deter me from any upgrades. In retrospect my buddy's 72 dart 318 gets like 10mpg, and that's what I call poopdick.

 

But I digress. :D

Link to comment
Share on other sites

My stock Rb25det in my 88 300zx gets between 25-30mpg on the highway. When I drove to the drag strip (90miles) made 8 runs and came home (90miles) I averaged 22mpg. At the strip I turned up the boost to 13.5psi.

 

you... me... we gotta talk about z31 RB's. :flamedevi

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Anytime Raff!.... anytime. :willy_nil Anything I can help you with I will!

 

LoL. I'd like for you to visit my Z31 at my parents house when you're down here for the engine.

 

I'll send you and scotty pics first.

 

There are others that also asked for em, but seeing as you'll take the one with the casting slump aswell, i'd be more inclined to sell to you cause getting it sold was part of the deal for me getting the other block.

 

Raff

Link to comment
Share on other sites

btw about the oiling problems that the ls motors have (mentioned by Mikelly earlier in this thread), that seems to be a very easy fix. A catch can can be placed and the switching out of the pcv valve to the revised pcv valve (GM part #12572717)will fix this problem.

 

oh yea and theres companies that already sell the catch can for the ls motors.

 

http://www.eliteengineeringusa.com/Catch_Can.html

Link to comment
Share on other sites

For all you guys worried about bad gas mileage this, bad gas mileage that...........GAS MILEAGE ISNT IN THE PARTS - ITS IN THE TUNE!

 

We have fuel systems with returns, that means we're recycling what we're not using.......if you can get your hands on one of those fancy standalone ECU jobbies, and be on the hook with a good tuner, you'll see amazing gas mileage.

 

I average 30+mpg on the highway and 24-25ish in the city on my 550rhwp daily driven tune......and if you really want good gas mileage, keep your foot OUT of the pedal

 

:mrgreen:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Do standalone ECUs really help?

 

It pretty much goes without saying that your foot has a heck of a lot to do with mileage. But it's just so dang hard to control. I don't know about it not being in the parts though. If you get wild cams and whatnot to advance your timing and increase compression, there seems to be little your foot can do to keep your mileage from going down. But I guess if you had an economy tune on your ECU, the fuel rate you're adding with your parts would in turn cause the ECU to lean the mixture and counter it when you don't need the power, in theory.

 

But whatever, I'm a leadfoot so it's not going to make any difference unless my car has so little power that I get good mileage even when I squeeze every available hp at all times, but then that's the exact opposite of the direction I'm going for. Would be nice to have different tune settings for in town though. My first major purchase will probably be a boost controller, which would help IF I ever get myself to turn it down instead of up.

 

:P

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I like the sound of both, but i would like to get a decent gas mileage at 400 or so horsepower. I have to make 120(includes both ways) mile trips every other week end.The RB sounds sick as, but the LS1 sound like a monster raping something. RB is cheaper but parts are sorta hard to get, ls1 cost more and parts are easy to get but I'm on a real tight budget.( i read all the threads on the cost of a RB and LS1 swap) I know how much it takes for a complete swap. And I'm going to cut out the middle man to save money and do as much work i can myself.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Compared to buying a ls1 motor set (not a front clip) is upwards of 3k (ebay prices) and a rb25 (not a rb26) is under 3k for a full front clip from venus auto. Other locations are will have different prices but where i have looked the ls1 is always higher. It cost more than just the motor to do i swap. i understand. Im just saying the motor it self is cheaper than a ls1.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.


×
×
  • Create New...