SUNMASTER Posted December 20, 2006 Share Posted December 20, 2006 Do anyone use the L24/L16 8mm rods . Please advise as i struggle to get hold of 9mm rods to complete my stroker. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
naviathan Posted December 20, 2006 Share Posted December 20, 2006 I have a set of them I'm using for my stroker build. I couldn't get my hands on any 9mm rods either. Unless you're planning on pushing huge boost and incredible horse power number I don't think you need 9mm. But, getting the ARP bolts is still a must. On the same line I'm curious if anyone knows if the 9mm and 8mm rods are the same aside from the bolt? If so wouldn't it be feasible to just drill and tap for the 9mm? Just curiosity. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OlderThanMe Posted December 20, 2006 Share Posted December 20, 2006 I think you can convert them..let me check the book... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SUNMASTER Posted December 20, 2006 Author Share Posted December 20, 2006 There is not enough steel to drill them bigger also the bottom cap is of a weaker design than the 9mm rods .I will try and post some pictures to show the difference Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ezzzzzzz Posted December 21, 2006 Share Posted December 21, 2006 I have a set of early 240Z rods that are fitted with 3/8" Chevy big block rod bolts in my L24. While I haven't tried to destroy this engine I have driven it upwards of 7k many times without any mayhem. It is easier to mod the stock rods than find the 9mm bolted rods or so it seems. I happen to have a set of these 9mm connecting rods boxed on the shelf too. Maybe one day I'll decide to part with them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BayAreaZT Posted December 21, 2006 Share Posted December 21, 2006 I remember reading somewhere that the 8mm rods were slightly heavier. I never actually wieghed them though. After I pull my 9mm rods out of the block I could weigh them so you can compare them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
naviathan Posted December 21, 2006 Share Posted December 21, 2006 This good information to have in the archives. Lets get it going. It there's no difference or maybe an advantage between the rods I would be greatful to know as would many others. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SUNMASTER Posted December 21, 2006 Author Share Posted December 21, 2006 8mm rod cap on left side 9mm on right hand side 8mm rod on right hand side Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
naviathan Posted December 21, 2006 Share Posted December 21, 2006 They look the same except for the journal. I assume the 9mm caps allow for better oiling of the bearing? Less surface less friction type deal? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
randy 77zt Posted December 21, 2006 Share Posted December 21, 2006 i got mine from later model 810-much more common in local pick&pulls Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HizAndHerz Posted December 22, 2006 Share Posted December 22, 2006 i got mine from later model 810-much more common in local pick&pullsAre you saying the L24E engines in 1981-84 Maxima's have the rods with 9mm bolts? On a whim, I just bought a set of 9mm rods thinking I'd use them with Arizona Z Car's forged short-deck flattop pistons. Haven't made up my mind yet whether I'm going ahead with that project or going with LD28 crank or back to stock. This stuff can drive you crazy! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SUNMASTER Posted December 27, 2006 Author Share Posted December 27, 2006 :lol: I ordered new rods from Courtesy parts ...............can't wait he he:lol: :lol: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2003z Posted December 27, 2006 Share Posted December 27, 2006 Are you saying the L24E engines in 1981-84 Maxima's have the rods with 9mm bolts? According to 'how to rebuild your Nissan/Datsun OHC engine, The Maxima L24 had 8mm bolts and both big and small end bores were smaller. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
randy 77zt Posted December 28, 2006 Share Posted December 28, 2006 i checked my 810 rods-the bolts are 9mm but neck down to 8.25 mm on the rod cap end.not a problem -i will change to arp bolts anyway.crank bearing is stock size.i am boring the small ends 1mm because i got a free set of vg30dett pistons and i am building a 2960 stroker for a turbo engine Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1 fast z Posted December 29, 2006 Share Posted December 29, 2006 BOOST Nor hp has ANYTHING to do with rod bolt, but rather forces of accelerating and decellerating the piston. So the lighter the piston and the better the rod to stroke ratio the stronger the rod. PLAIN AND SIMPLE, hp and tq has NOTHING to do with rod bolts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest d3c0y z3d Posted December 29, 2006 Share Posted December 29, 2006 Also you might find that after all this time that the maxima rods maybe in better shap just purely for the fact that they are a decade newer!! - 240Z rods are coming up 40 y/o! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lurch2461 Posted December 29, 2006 Share Posted December 29, 2006 We have any number of late model L24 rods here in Oz due to us getting L24E motors in our early Skylines. I have a set that has been shot peened and linished that cost AU$250.00 Cheers, D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
naviathan Posted December 29, 2006 Share Posted December 29, 2006 BOOST Nor hp has ANYTHING to do with rod bolt, but rather forces of accelerating and decellerating the piston. So the lighter the piston and the better the rod to stroke ratio the stronger the rod. PLAIN AND SIMPLE, hp and tq has NOTHING to do with rod bolts. ???? What's you're problem. I don't remember anyone saying that the bolts had anything to do with boost or hp. It's just a strength issue. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zcarnut Posted December 29, 2006 Share Posted December 29, 2006 i got mine from later model 810-much more common in local pick&pulls Are you saying the L24E engines in 1981-84 Maxima's have the rods with 9mm bolts?! According to 'how to rebuild your Nissan/Datsun OHC engine, The Maxima L24 had 8mm bolts and both big and small end bores were smaller. The Datsun 810 was built from 1977 to 1980. The 810 evolved into the first generation Maxima which was produced from 1981 to 1984. Everyone assumes that “810 = Maxima†which is not true. The Maxima was almost a total redesign and none of the suspension parts, body parts or interior parts from the 810 will interchange with the first gen Maxima. Only the drivetrain remained about the same. However even the L24E engine was changed when the Maxima appeared. The (1977-80) 810 L24E engine has the same crankshaft as the L24 [240Z] engine, a 25lb flywheel, 9mm rod bolts, and a N47 head similar to the one found on the later 280Z except for the smaller exhaust valve. The L24E engine in the (1981-84) Maxima had the following differences: the N47 head was changed from a “dome-wedge†shape to a “wedge†shape (quelch combustion chamber), the flywheel was lightened to 17.5lbs and the rods and crank were changed to accommodate a thinner connecting rod journal and the rods used the 8mm bolts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony D Posted December 29, 2006 Share Posted December 29, 2006 "???? What's you're problem. I don't remember anyone saying that the bolts had anything to do with boost or hp. It's just a strength issue." Unless you're planning on pushing huge boost and incredible horse power number I don't think you need 9mm. But, getting the ARP bolts is still a must. Actually, it looked like you were implying boost or horsepower can be a factor in deciding wether or not to use 9mm bolts in that very quote. As pointed out, reversal forces at higher rpms dictate rod bolt strength. Boost and BMEP dictates compressile design of the rod beam. Most of the stock comp-prepped rods will not sustain prolonged usage above 100HP per cylinder as beam breakage becomes an issue according to the testing Electramotive did in the 80's on their turbo monster. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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