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Guys im going with ARCTIC WHITE


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seriously. drop the victory red and go find another car that comes with a nice factory red .

 

i've seen colours on high end cars that are no better looking than the same red that is on the 2002 caravan.

 

im dead serious. it's nicer than most reds you see on cars today, save for the metallic look of the Dodge Nitro red that they had on their concept car, and perhaps that mazda suv that they has a concept of a while ago that fell into the same colour tone/pigment range.

 

I for one, am going to go with Jeep® Green Metallic off the new jeep wrangler

 

on the website it looks like puke, but see it in person at a chrysler dealership, and you'll know what im talking about.

 

thats the top part of my car, the middle section (im doing two tone) is going to be the same as the new greyish green that they have on the new civic si coupe called Galaxy Grey Metallic.

 

the two will look badass together.

 

try just going to dealerships and showing some interest. the larger the dealership, the more variations in colour you will see.

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Sorry but white for a sports car is crap, any mid shade metallic would be better, white just blanks out the lines and curves of the S30.

 

Have a look at the green S30 in the gallery on my website and see the curves and lines a mid shade metallic bring out.

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Sorry but white for a sports car is crap, any mid shade metallic would be better, white just blanks out the lines and curves of the S30.

 

Have a look at the green S30 in the gallery on my website and see the curves and lines a mid shade metallic bring out.

 

 

look at this car do you think that color is crap?

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I've never really liked green Zs.

 

I've seen some nice looking white Zs. I want a white Z with black ZGs, front lip, and BRE spoiler. Black fiberglass bumpers if I decide to put them.

 

It breaks up the white quite nicely.

 

But it's true, if I had the money I'd get a deep blue metallic or a gunmetal gray, like some S2k's have.

Mario

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Any nice white Zed will look better in a mid shade metallic, or black or.........

But, but, but, as has been said many times here, its your car, its what you like that really matters.

 

However, when you ask for opinions........ :twisted:

 

PS, this is nice, look at the play of light on the shape and curves, you don't get that with refrigerator white :)

http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=113257

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after a horrible quote for $1,400 dollars worth of PPG victory red,clears and catalyst reducers ect. I decided to go with ARCTIC WHITE what do you guys think??

 

color-Arctic-White.jpg

 

Im wondering what the quote for the White paint was??

 

And the way you worded the red quote im led to believe your just quoting the cost of the paint materials themselves?

 

And is this quote from a retail paint supply store or something?

 

I ask because the cost of mixing materials (clears/reducers/hardeners) is the same,

 

the only thing that should really be more expensive is the tint base itself.

(the red tint vs the white)

 

************************

 

Next question is, are you painting the car yourself or something? (is that why your buying the materials yourself?)

 

Because if your not, painting it yourself, and your planning on going to a paint shop with your paint, the shop probably gets a much better price

on paint materials than you can, and should be able to offer you a better

combined price on materials and the labor to shoot the car than if you do it seperatly.

 

and

 

If someone comes in to my shop wants the (for example) nice 2 stage paintjob (like victory red or arctic white or blue or green or yellow etc) they are going to get the same price...and i'll make a bit less on a red paintjob.... and make a bit more on the next white paintjob....

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Wish I still had decent pics of my Zcar in white... White is the easiest color to shoot and make look good, and covers less than perfect bodywork. It also helps with heat soak issues, and leaves the interior a few degrees cooler on hot days. The only down side is ALL DIRT shows on white, just as it does on black.

 

Mike

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I got quoted for the victory red $1449 not exactly 49 its around that price that included all the 2 gallons for red, 1 gallon of clear hardener reducer.

 

An for the arctic white i got it for $ 799.39 just as above with 2 gallons of DELTRON 2000 DBC arctic white at $230.31 a gallon compare to $ 530 not that exact price but it was in the high $500eds.

I got the paint from D'angelos in corona,CA my dads' friend son works

there.Great guy for advise and since i work late i can just order by phone and pick it at his house, since he lives about 3 miles from my house.

 

Im not going to spray it my self my dads' other frind works at a upholstery shop same work i do..they have a big compressor and a dryer.. They also have an open spray booth where they paint the furniture, im going to paint it there. He himself is painting a early 90's corvette and a 1947 chevy coupe that his restoring.. As far as charging me he said $600 bucks and a IN n' out burger with grill onions. Im goin to spend on total paint job is $1399.32 plus other accesories tape,mask, paint jumpsuit, ect. about the same price i was going to paint for just the red paint

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Go Cheap, do what I did...use only Tint Base and Catalyst...works fine, single stage. Clear will just make it harder to touch up or match should something happen to it. Alot of people think that single stage is prone to oxidation and whatnot, I say BS...as long as you keep your car clean and waxed like you should do any paint anyway, it's not gonna oxidize any faster than that fancy dancy Basecoat Clearcoat will. Colors are fine, but if you want it to look sleek, nice and uniform, just use white tint base. Your wallet will thank you big time in the end.

 

CLEAN6.JPG

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Good Idea Warren...

If your going white, ask your friend the cost on "PPG Omni" single stage arctic white pricing...you will be pleasantly surprised in the cost difference

and a single stage has what is called "intergrated or mixing" clear built-in to the formula...see below for single stage - base / clear mixes / costs

notice your not needing for example, 1 gallon clear, hardener, reducer...

these formulas are for a total MIX equaling an approx. amount needed to spray a car your size.

 

Single stage formula: per gallon

 

POLYCURE A 122.8

A/E CLEAR 1,472.5

GREEN BLUE 1.0

FERRIT YELLOW 2.0

OXIDE RED 2.6

STRONG BLACK 7.0

STRONG WHITE 1,513.3

MED REDUCER 448.5

SPEED HARDENR 611.7

 

cost: 235.42

 

Base / Clear 2 quarts

 

basecoat

WHITE 1176.0

L.S. BLUE 13.4

L.S. YELLOW 13.4

BLACK 13.4

REDUC HAPS FR 834.65

 

cost: 159.15

 

clearcoat per gallon

 

2.1 VOC CLEAR 2,603.1

2.1 MED REDUCER 677.9

2.1 CLR HARDENER 826.3

 

cost: 398.62

 

Go Cheap, do what I did...use only Tint Base and Catalyst...works fine, single stage. Clear will just make it harder to touch up or match should something happen to it. Alot of people think that single stage is prone to oxidation and whatnot, I say BS...as long as you keep your car clean and waxed like you should do any paint anyway, it's not gonna oxidize any faster than that fancy dancy Basecoat Clearcoat will. Colors are fine, but if you want it to look sleek, nice and uniform, just use white tint base. Your wallet will thank you big time in the end.

 

CLEAN6.JPG

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