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Pic request: L series wired tucked


OvErMiNd

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ok one question what happened to your distributor and how does that set up work

 

I used MegaSquirt EFI which will also controls a variety of different ignition systems, one being the FORD EDIS Distributorless ignition that I used on that engine, from a 4.0L V-6 Ford Explorer. Most other stand alone EFI systems, aka WOLF 3d), also have ignition control and will allow the use of coil on plug ignitions like what is linked above. (Ron will be updating SOON about that 6 coil set up…. )

 

Here is the coil pack and Magnecor plug wires…

 

Plugwires.jpg

 

Price for the ignition components from the U-pull-it yard totaled less then $75! A good friend walked out with the same goodies for only $40! (depends on the guy behind counter and his mood). That included the coil pack, Ign module, crank trigger and VR sensor. You will still need a unit to control that DIS ignition whether it be Mega Squirt EFI or MegaJolt Lite Jr, (MJLJr is geared more towards the carbonated crowd, but should also work the OE EFI…)

 

Hope that helps..

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am i reading this right?

 

*grabs can of coca cola*

 

 

Yeup. “Carbonated”.. Aka if you make any mixture adjustments with a carbonated fuel system, you go to bed that night smelling like gasoline, vs Electronic Fuel Infection aka EFI, where after making a fuel mixture adjustment, you go to bed with carpal tunnel.. :mrgreen:

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Hey Ron, I've got my old rusty header all boxed up and waiting, just say the word when you want to trade.

 

Max,

 

You're soooo good to me... and I have never done anything to you... oops, I meant for you :wink:

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I hide all my unsightly wires and brake lines in plain sight. How you ask? By equipping the World's Rustiest Header, I have effectively distracted all attention away from anything else in the car that is even marginally less rusty or ugly. I know RonTyler is about as jealous of this mod as it's possible to be, that's why I keep offering to trade headers with him so he'll finally get some respect around here. He has yet to accept, to his credit. Another trick I like to use is to only angle my photographs in such a way that you can't actually get a good look at my brake lines, thereby obviating the need to actually do anything at all about them...

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Sorry, can i ask a question, why do you have a radiator cap on top of your thermoststat MONZTER?

 

My radiator sits lower than the head, (because its a crossflow design and if I raise it the cap would hit the hood) and I could never get all of the air out of the system. So I made a raised thermo housing that makes it the highest point on the engine. Now all the air is gone, and the raised sections acts like a small purge tank. The cap on the radiator is never used and there because thats the way it came. I guess maybe this was the long way around the block, but it worked...

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Monzter your engine bay looks great. Did you powdercoat your valve cover with the wrinkle powder of is it some other kind? Also what kind of intake manifold it that (Isnt it lonewolf or something like that), it looks great.

 

The valve cover is Black wrinkle Powder coat, the same as the turbo valve covers. A place called Olympic Powder Coating in Santa Ana California did it, as well as the manifold. But first I removed and welded up all of the original spark plug wire bosses on the valve cover (since I dont run a distributor)

The manifold is something I built out of a manifold originally from a 2.0 japan motor (so I was told) I cut it up into a dozen pieces, and added an inch in volume, straightened all of the runners, as well as extending and changing the angle of the throttle body. I also converted it to a 6 bolt flange, and added injector bosses in the runners. The throttle body was a TWM 60mm that I added a TPS, IAC motor and converted it to a throttle cable so there would be no linkage from above. Here is a pic before the powder coat. 071105_008.JPG

 

I took a lot of work, but I enjoy fab. work

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Beautiful engine bays guys, but how do you go about hiding the wire harnesses.

 

Asking this is like asking how to paint a portrait... there is no right or wrong way... just art. Everyone here has a different style, just like every painter.

 

Route them as you see fit... you'll then have YOUR style :wink:

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The front brake line can be run straight down through the fender, jsut drill a hole and put a grommet in it. Then "T" it at the frame rail and run another line for the passenger side along the crossmember. Use rubber lines tubing clamps and small self tapping screws to hold the brakes lines on. Its really a pretty easy job and shouldnt take but an afternoon. Really helps clean things up.

 

Ill take some pictures of mine next time I am home.

 

-Austin

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