Vindicare

Chatter isn't what I'm saying. Think more along the lines of BANG!!!!BANG!!!!! Under part power, it would lock and unlock constantly going around a corner, under no power no noises, under full power both wheels lock together and you go sideways. I'd recommend a 1 way or maybe a 1.5 would help. 2 way will just drive you mad. Don't get me wrong, at 9tenths it's great, but just cruising the streets it's horrid. It's explained in a old thread by one of the senior guys here that it has to do with the preset way the KAAZ locks up. Put it this way, I wouldn't buy one again. Try it yourself and report back. Sounds like you have it setup already. FYI, I ran my KAAZ in by the book, about an hour of figure 8s before dropping the oil and replacing it. Sore arms afterwoods

240sx NA KAAZ will in a s30, I done it, however, I dont recommend it for anything other then a track car, it's VERY harsh. I was killing control arm poly's every 3 months. FYI, if you had searched you would have found the old threads on here, which is how I found out about it.

Choose your turbo carfully, moving it so far forward brings it very close to the endings mount. Yes I have one similar and it limits you

Ross pistons 87mm flat tops Spool rods Autronic SMC w/ 500r CDI & M&W coils Amazing remade wiring! Bosch EV14 800cc Injectors Lone Wolf race intake Trust turbo manifold Tial 44mm wastegate AZC sump PMC porting and headwork, PMC custom cam, PMC water mods GT35R .63 hotside All built by PMC Dyno Thursday!

Has anyone tried using a RB25 flywheel on a L28, not sure about up there, but RB gear is pretty common here and it would be a lot cheaper to obtain a "used" multi-plate from a RB25 powered car, ie $1500 second hand vs $3000 new. As these multi plate clutches come with flywheels, my mechanic said it should bolt up, but may need dowels put in to centre the assembly on the crank, but he doesn't know for sure. Plans are for my engine to eventually make 400whp, which I've already collected the parts for, and am commencing the build in the coming months. I've read that an L28 flywheel would work on a RB25, but some machining is required to open up the middle hole. Cheers Aaron

It's all nice to say "equal length equal length", but fact is, there isn't a whole lot of room under the intake to achieve this. I'm kinda interested in the intake manifold, as I already have a trust manifold, so glad I didn't wait around for the last "group buy".

Yeah Dave is a fantastic retailer, very helpful, with great prices and a great product. Still waiting for that illusive handbrake kit tho lol, told be in a couple weeks, 7 months ago. Have the brakes on, and they all go together superbly. Will buy from again A+++++

You do have the right top isolators installed? Rear ones are a different thickness I think? Could be a simple thing to check out?

Hey Mayolives, Did the new shocks fix the issue? Cheers Aaron

Yeah that one is a bit much, helix112 i think is the user who owns the car with that manifold. I like the greddy one there as it moves the turbo away form the engine mount a bit more, for those running big turbos with large inlets.

Here's my favourite header, but i'll chuck up the other pictures i've collected over the years.

Interested! Mainly want something closer to equal length(difficult i know but close anyway maybe something like the Greddy one?) with T3 flange and I wont require a dump pipe.

Im interested to see how much power you make with the L24, currently I'm running 13pound bleeding to 11 above 4500rpm, my last power run net me 148rwhp.

I'm gonna guess motec? I dunno are they even australian? Bet that set you back a pretty penny if so. Sorry I was obvisouly looking at the wrong turbo thinking the smaller one would have been on the sr20 . Yeah my first time at the drags I could only manage a 15.7, this was my second time down there Are you gunna keep slugging on with this build, or gunna go forged pistons etc? I considered it but I like how a rb25/30 looks in the zed engine bay Goodluck making more power mate. Wait a sec, your only hitting full boost at 4k rpm?! with that small a exhaust housing? Eek, guess my combo would have been horrid

Hey Garvice, Something must be up on your setup, have you managed to better your 14.5s run? I went to the drags a few weeks ago and with my 148hp l24et I ran 14.7. That hp figure is from before I installed the rb25 gearbox and my exhaust but my car has never been tuned on a dyno(only power run). I also have the problem of the head gasket seeping oil down the d/s block(but i've driven it that way for 4 years). My power is all in by 4500rpm. Is your turbo 1.06 turbine? Only ask as I was going to turbo the l28 I have with a Gt35/40 with .82 turbine, and 4k is pretty late to have full boost : When I ran at the drags i was launching at about 2.5k rpm but then I have a much smaller turbo then yours, but running 13psi dropping to 11psi at 4500rpm. I've started to consider a RB swap but am a little weary about the new laws saying you need a IM240 test for engine swaps. :( What ECU are you running, Sorry if you've already mentioned it.

Bumping a thread form the dead, 1 fast Z, did your customer end up using this intake and did it nett any gains over the stocker?

I imagine it's because the piping runs underneath the engine from the turbo.

is the t3 .8 housing not a good middle ground? that's what I just just purchase for my L24et

I have some CV half shafts to suit a R200 if you want to buy them Head on over to www.auszcar.com, not quite as much information there, but it still helps. In aussie terms, the way your going, I wouldn't expect you'd get much change from 15k for the engine your thinking of. Head, I'd go a N42, there are lots of those around Australia but it's a lot more difficult to find P90's. Cam's, aiming 650hp, but you want torque? You'll have gobs of it later in the rev range, but you'll need some good cams for that hp which probably wont leave a lot down low. You'll be requiring a custom intake manifold, inter-cooler, piping, exhaust, lines, pumps, injectors, tail shaft, etc, etc. And if your going to such extreme's with twin turbo and stroker, forget the zed boxes, they'll bust constantly, I've bought a RB25 turbo box, Z32 bell housing, and adapter and gone that route, which cost me about 4k(with labour and that's without a good clutch, i'm about to spend 2600 on a new twin plate clutch for my setup) SWM will be the best people to talk to about most things, im pretty sure they've seen most of the stuff your talking about(http://www.swmotorsport.com/). Oh and being that megasquirt is mainly over in the states, trying to find a tuner for it would be difficult, but lets be honest, your wanting to spend all this money on the engine and then go for a budget engine management? Find a good tuner and install what ever management he is best at tuning. Or, you could get an rb26, and still have a Nissan straight 6, stock twin turbo, and already has gobs of power, more then likely work out cheaper. From you post, I thinks its obvious you need to read more. Search and good luck. Where abouts in Australia also? Aaron

www.riceracing.com.au They recommend injecting before the compressor, but it has to be a certain size of particle to not damage the turbo. Give him a buzz, he's very clued in on the subject.

e is electronic ignition isn't it? or fuel injected somethign like that

This is the email I got when inquiring about a sump from CRS There has been some talk regarding sumps, some say that they require no mods. We have found some clearance issues. However we do not supply a sump, only the mount kit as listed above You may find that the sump will fit with only minor massaging Colin Forster Sales Consultant, The Castlemaine Rod Shop www.rodshop.com.au

how much would a custom sump be RIPSNZ? PM me if you please. thanks Aaron

depends if its the right one

I couldn't understand lol, all zed wheels I've come across the horn pad just pop's off