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Bling Bling Bling went the tranny...


Warren

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HA, I actually (and I hate to admit it), slept in my van with the car on a trailer...that was the first night I owned it, before I even got it home, way back when it was still a rusted out POS. It stays locked inside my garage now and NEVER leaves my sight when it's not in the garage. Ask BradMan-Q45...on the way back from SEZ last September, we stopped at DQ to get a bite to eat. I had to sit by the window just to keep an eye on it. But I'm not paranoid...hahaha

 

 

Well, then, when the stripper comes into the DQ and does a lap dance for 30 min, I'll be taking the tranny out of the car. I doubt seriously if you'll be watching the car! :wink::lmao:

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to me it looks too shiny to be a single stage, or a 2 stage with clear. It looks like 2 stage without a clear coat, so if it is cleared or a single stage, I need to know where to buy that stuff!

 

 

chrome_sample.jpg

 

That was a 2 stage. The black trim make it look a little darker than it really was..

 

Curious to see what Warrens coater did it with...

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Yeah maybe you're right, BRAD. Hey DOC... hire a so-so stripper and tell her to take it easy on poor old Warren. We don't want to kill the guy, do we?

 

But then he won't be distracted - just disgusted....possibly wretching....
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Well Warren, if we kill you, what a way to go! What you going to tell St. Pete? Your going to look awfull funny with a woody standing at the pearly gates!

 

That powder coating is really cool looking. How durable to rock chips is that grill going to be? Is that stuff really that good?

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Warren,

What is the power output (approx) of your engine setup?

 

Reason I ask is because of the stock servo installed on the side of your 200-4R.

Not only stock but it looks like a stock low performance servo based on the cover configuration.

 

The 86-87 Buick GN's had a larger servo, commonly known as the "694" servo because of the 694 number on the cover that can be read from the outside.

It was a larger diameter servo that provided greater clamping force the 2nd gear band.

 

The 2nd gear band is one of the weak points of the 200-4R but is easily upgraded during the rebuild to a much better unit (Alto Red Eagle wide band). The servo also must be upgraded for any type of power. The stock GN servo seems to work well up to about the 400 HP/TQ mark, and then an aftermarket billet servo is required.

 

Just based off the pic I would suggest upgrading the servo (the billet will look good too :) )

There are some other tricks out there with the servo that could possibly have been done but it's pretty unlikely.

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Ah,

I see your low support puller in one of the pics, so you are rebuilding it yourself.

I assume you've done your research then.

What all are you planning for the internals?

 

Since you are using the stock pan, be sure to "dam" the cutout in the case where the park linakge goes through with some sheetmetal to limit fluid slosh out of the pan on accel.

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It's getting the full treatment. TCI Pro Super kit with Alto Red Eagle Clutches, New steels, Wide Alto Red Eagle band, New Heat Treated Direct drum & Sun shell, Torringtons, New Waves in the Low/Reverse, 7 & 7 in the new hardened Direct & shaft, 3 & 3 in the CK Performance Overrun, all new backing plates in all, new bushings, washers & gaskets. Has a GN Governor, Art Carr Manual Valve Body (I still have and will probably keep the BRF valve body), hardened stator support, 13 vane pump with teflon seals, 9.5" 3000 stall converter, 700R4 bottom feeding filter, GN Servo modified per Art Carr's recommendations for manual valve body. (I might have missed a thing or two in the list, but not inside the case).

 

Never heard of damming the cutout, but have been advised to run 1/2-1 qt over on fluid to avoid/prevent cavitation and G-force induced starvation.

 

I'll be putting less than 400 hp & tq through it, but wanted to overbuild it anyway. It "should" hold up to that, at least.

 

Thanks for the tip on the cutout.

 

Warren

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I would use one of Chris's (CK) billet forward drum setups instead of the hardened Art Carr piece, even at 400 HP.

I like to stay at 6 clutches in the directs with stock thickness steels personally but there are different theories on that. I just like to keep the thick steels in there.

The GN servo will probably be OK, but I would also go to a billet piece if you are right at the 400 hp/tq level just for piece of mind.

Not a big difference but a 10 vane pump actually has more volume than a 13 vane...Less vanes taking up space in the pump cavity...

Either works fine though, just something to think about.

I rarely use the Kolene steels on any trans. I think they are generally an unnecessary expense and they need to be prepped. Be sure to lightly scotchbrite them and wash them good before use.

You definitely want to dam the cutout in the case. I like the deep pans and use the 700 filter or a sump feeder that you can make from copper tubing. I dam the cutout even on a deep pan setup.

Other than that you should be set.

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At $419 for a billet forward drum, I think I'll give the $200 hardened one that I already have a try first. As far as the deep pan and sump feeder is concerned, I'm using a B&M super-cooler equipped with a themostatically controlled fan on it, and I'm not sure about the clearance requirements and whatnot at this point, perhaps later.)

 

Don't get me wrong here, I'm definitely NOT arguing or being contrary. I'm still learning all this, and appreciate the input.

 

Warren

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Warren,

Chris is running a special on the drums right now for $349 I think. Call in and talk to him, tell him Jake sent you.

The Kolenes aren't "bad" just that I have built transmissions for up to 1500 HP and never "needed" them yet. They are more of a heat treated steel. They are nitrided which is a hardening process for the surface of the clutches. See here:

http://www.key-to-steel.com/Articles/Art117.htm

 

Anyway, scuffing them with scotchbrite won't take the nitriding completely off, it just knocks down the roughness.

 

Keep this in mind,

A friction clutch such as a stock tan type and the Alto Red material are paper based material.

A steel clutch plate is exactly that, it is steel, much harder and more heat resistant than any "paper".

If you heat spot or warp a steel plate, the paper frictions are also deteriorated. A coated steel may make the steels stronger, but why is this necessary when they are already more resistant to failure than any friction material you will use in an auto trans?

 

There is more to this than what I stated but that is the main theme in a nutshell.

Paper holds oil and steel doesn't, oil cools and cushions... Just wanted to add that to muddy the waters..

 

You'll notice the Kolenes feel rough, this tears up the paper. A bit too much friction. Just a light scotchbriting will knock off the high spots and the Kolenes work fine.

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