Guest FDdRiFteR Posted February 18, 2007 Share Posted February 18, 2007 you woulnt need that if you were running a stand alone fuel management system tho rite??? do you know what the largest intercooler you could put in a 240z??? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mtcookson Posted February 24, 2007 Author Share Posted February 24, 2007 Wouldn't need... the valve? It wouldn't matter what setup you have, it'll allow the turbo to spool quicker regardless. Not sure on the intercooler, you'll have to search around a little bit. I wouldn't try fitting the largest intercooler you can in there, just the size you need for the power you're aiming for. On to the valve. Finished it last Sunday and finally got the pictures... I still need some more welding practice but the new welder definitely makes a difference over the cheapo welders. Now I just need to get the Maxima running so I can test it and check for leaks in the valve itself. http://www.machzracing.com/Maxima/QSV/P1020193.JPG http://www.machzracing.com/Maxima/QSV/P1020192.JPG http://www.machzracing.com/Maxima/QSV/P1020195.JPG http://www.machzracing.com/Maxima/QSV/P1020194.JPG Threaded the holes to make for an easier time bolting it all up. Due to it being square, a nut or bolt wouldn't have fit and this looks better anyways. http://www.machzracing.com/Maxima/QSV/P1020201.JPG The clearances are a little too tight for the valve to open and close smoothly so I need to modify the inside of it a little bit, but once I get it working smooth it should work very well. More to come! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cygnusx1 Posted February 24, 2007 Share Posted February 24, 2007 Make sure you heat it up to test the flap for fit when it's hot. It's going to expand/warp in some way or other. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mtcookson Posted February 24, 2007 Author Share Posted February 24, 2007 Yeah, I'm going to toss it in the oven and see how it does with an even heat. If it doesn't work from there, I'm just going to make one like the Thaggard one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TrumpetRhapsody Posted December 11, 2007 Share Posted December 11, 2007 How did this end up working? I'm thinking about picking up a HX-35, and would be interested in one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OlderThanMe Posted December 16, 2007 Share Posted December 16, 2007 I think it's time to find some small "Inconel" stick welding rods... Then you won't have ANY warping problems EVER. LOL I've laid a few beads with an inconel rod or two just because we had some extra rods at school... I think the weld is what broke my slag hammer! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zguy36 Posted December 18, 2007 Share Posted December 18, 2007 I build a twin scroll valve as well and had the same luck that Thaggard had. I didn't make any noticeable difference and I ended up scrapping the idea. Yours might work, who knows. I can give you some advice on how to actuate this thing though. I ended up using a diaphram solenoid from an RX7 (used for the same purpose on this car). If you adjust the spring rates on your wastegate and on your twin scroll actuator, you can get the twin scroll actuator to be fully open just before the wastegate starts to open. Control pressure to both lines via your boost controller, and the whole thing will function flawlessly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bernardd Posted December 18, 2007 Share Posted December 18, 2007 I build a twin scroll valve as well and had the same luck that Thaggard had. I didn't make any noticeable difference and I ended up scrapping the idea. Yours might work, who knows. I can give you some advice on how to actuate this thing though. I ended up using a diaphram solenoid from an RX7 (used for the same purpose on this car). If you adjust the spring rates on your wastegate and on your twin scroll actuator, you can get the twin scroll actuator to be fully open just before the wastegate starts to open. Control pressure to both lines via your boost controller, and the whole thing will function flawlessly. what did you try it on? need specs....a lot of the mustang guys find it works very well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G.I.jonas Posted December 18, 2007 Share Posted December 18, 2007 You should try to use inconel alloy in your design,same metal used alot for turbine wheels-basically super stainless that thrives on rediculous temps.I think the expansion of the material is minimal as well which would be helpfull in the area where you have to seal the shaft with a tightly machined inner and out diameters-in respect to what cygnusx1 said. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TrumpetRhapsody Posted December 18, 2007 Share Posted December 18, 2007 Yeah, IIRC somewhere Thaggard said it helped spool about 600 rpm sooner? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Evan Purple240zt Posted December 18, 2007 Share Posted December 18, 2007 you woulnt need that if you were running a stand alone fuel management system tho rite??? do you know what the largest intercooler you could put in a 240z??? You have to be kidding me. I am kinda surprised James has not chimed in. He must not really be on the site anymore. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RB26powered74zcar Posted December 18, 2007 Share Posted December 18, 2007 I am kinda surprised James has not chimed in. He must not really be on the site anymore. Yea, me too.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TrumpetRhapsody Posted December 18, 2007 Share Posted December 18, 2007 Could be because that post was like 10 months ago. zguy36's: I'm curious about your design. Was it the Thaggard style, or the way mtcookson was doing his; That is, blocking off one side with a butteryfly style flap, or redirecting flow with a full width plate? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Evan Purple240zt Posted December 18, 2007 Share Posted December 18, 2007 You will note that James NEVER chimed into this conversation. That was my point. Evan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OlderThanMe Posted December 18, 2007 Share Posted December 18, 2007 Once upon a time TimZ had a quick-spool valve... Maybe he can chime in if he wants with the materials he used although he ended up not using it(back when he told me about it...). "James NEVER chimed in" Let's not get in a fussing match abot who chimes in or not... If he feels that he doesn't want to share something about his engine then he has the right to not share with the world. Just as I may do the same with some of my engine work and the same with many other high performance engine builders not wanting to give away ALL secrets. Then again other people can just miss a thread. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TrumpetRhapsody Posted December 18, 2007 Share Posted December 18, 2007 Ah. I didn't know who James was, and in context assumed he was a moderator or something and that you were making a reference to that guy's outdated post. My bad, moving on... That picture above is what got this whole idea rolling, and why I dug up this older thread. Another member mentioned the idea to me while debating the differences between the HX-35 and HY-35. It seems like the TimZ version might be a little more efficient, but i'm no fluid mechanics expert. Therefore, I'm curious which version zguy36's tried and claims provided little benefit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TimZ Posted December 21, 2007 Share Posted December 21, 2007 That picture above is what got this whole idea rolling, and why I dug up this older thread. Another member mentioned the idea to me while debating the differences between the HX-35 and HY-35. It seems like the TimZ version might be a little more efficient, but i'm no fluid mechanics expert. Therefore, I'm curious which version zguy36's tried and claims provided little benefit. Just to be clear - the "James Thaggard" design and the "TimZ" design are one and the same. James made that piece up for me after we had talked about it for some time. The "Spoolie Jobbie" in the pic above is the one that James made. The flange is mild steel. The throttle and shaft are made from Hastelloy X. We picked this material because of its ability to withstand the temperatures that were likely to be seen at the turbine inlet. I didn't want it either melting or binding as soon as the EGTs went up. The Hastelloy X material should be good to close to 2000 degF. Also, the throttle shaft rides in two stepped busings that were pressed into the flange, also made of Hastelloy X. When I was running the mild Isky cam and the T64, initial trials with the Spoolie Jobbie showed boost coming on about 600 to 800rpm earlier as noted above. However, when I went to the more radical Elgin cam, it appeared that the added backpressure from the closed throttle caused more problems than it solved, and boost response was actually worse than without it. This, combined with the problems I was having finding a reliable actuation method led me to shelf the project. I think that this should still be able to work, but you really need to think big on the turbine housing. With the T64, I was using a ~0.8A/R housing, so with the throttle closed it was 0.4A/R - too small. Also, I was originally thinking of this as an on/off application - it might be useful to look at performance with the throttle partially open. I'm thinking about resurrecting this project with the GT42 turbo, with a revised actuation method. I'm thinking that the much larger hotside might work better... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
240Z Turbo Posted January 13, 2008 Share Posted January 13, 2008 I don't get much time these days to do anything but work. At present I am in Holland for 2 weeks working. As Tim said the material was Hastoloy X and was chosen for its high temperature performance. At the time it was just an experiment and I had much more free time and complete access to a machine shop. That piece took quite some time to make as the flapper valve, shaft and even the bushings were machined from Hastoloy X. It was also a pain as the tolerances needed to be kept in check so the exhaust wouldn't leak past the bushings. I also think the other design might work, but does not package very well. As far as it flowing better I would doubt there is much difference. Perhaps one day I will have time again to enjoy my passion for turbocharging. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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