Vindicare Posted March 23, 2007 Share Posted March 23, 2007 hi guys, just looking for some knowledgable info on this conversionkit on ebay. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ih=010&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWA%3AIT&viewitem=&item=200090560956&rd=1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FJ 280z Posted March 23, 2007 Share Posted March 23, 2007 everything you need to know is listed on the auction website. if your looking for feedback on the seller, thats wolf creek racing, they are a east coast parts supplier and have been racing datsuns and nissans for 20 or 30 years. i bought alot of parts from wolf creek over the years and im sure other members here have, they are legit, and sell the best parts available PERIOD. if you want feedback on the cv kit though, probably won't find any on this board as they have only been making and selling that kit for a few months, i could be wrong though, someone could have it here on a Z, but i havn't heard anything as of yet. it is definetly without a doubt worth the money though, they are a top notch seller. heres thier website: http://www.wolfcreekracing.com Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMortensen Posted March 23, 2007 Share Posted March 23, 2007 I wouldn't hesitate to buy that setup if I were in the market. Main thing for most people here is that they want an R200 and there are other less expensive ways to get CVs on an R200. But for R180 or R160 guys this is a great bolt on solution, and it's particularly useful for the 510 crowd who get really really extreme halfshaft angles with lowered cars. The 2-3% power increase was proven on a dyno on an extremely low 510 according to Todd from WCR. Not sure that a Z would show the same improvement because our halfshafts aren't so twisted as to bind up like a 510 can. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alexideways Posted March 23, 2007 Share Posted March 23, 2007 I think I read a thread, on this very site, a few years back about someone putting Porsche axles in his Z... Do a quick search for "Porsche axles"... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pop N Wood Posted March 23, 2007 Share Posted March 23, 2007 I wouldn't hesitate to buy that setup if I were in the market. Main thing for most people here is that they want an R200 and there are other less expensive ways to get CVs on an R200. But for R180 or R160 guys this is a great bolt on solution, and it's particularly useful for the 510 crowd who get really really extreme halfshaft angles with lowered cars. The 2-3% power increase was proven on a dyno on an extremely low 510 according to Todd from WCR. Not sure that a Z would show the same improvement because our halfshafts aren't so twisted as to bind up like a 510 can. So what is the better/cheaper way for R200 owners? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMortensen Posted March 23, 2007 Share Posted March 23, 2007 R200 owners can use the 280ZXT CV shafts or the Z31T CV shafts. More details on those options in this thread: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=114798 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vindicare Posted March 23, 2007 Author Share Posted March 23, 2007 thanks for the feedback guys, its nice to get some clarification. for some reason my ip is banned from that web site. bit wierd considering i have never been there. the kit is good value, in australia there is not many options to find stock cv's off other zed's. one motorsport shop is charging about 1400 aud for recond cv's, whereas this kit could be had for ~1100 aud new. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blueovalz Posted March 24, 2007 Share Posted March 24, 2007 I think I read a thread, on this very site, a few years back about someone putting Porsche axles in his Z... That was ezzzzzzz and I that did that conversion. My guess is that these are a type 2 (bus) or perhaps the bigger type 4 (Porsche 924/944) joints. I looked at these when I made my conversion (below pictures), but decided if I was going to go to all this trouble, then I'd go all the way and put the 930 stuff on for the V8 torque. Anyway, my set-up is heavier than the OEM it replaces, and this auction description claims their set-up is lighter. Anyway, it looks like a descent kit from what I can see. If I was to purchase these, I'd look into moving the differential 1" toward the driver's side, and consequently see what it would take to have the driver's side axle shortened 1", and the passenger side lengthened 1". This completely eliminated the remaining vibration I had (but I had everything solidly mounted). From the appearance of the auction photos, I'd say it might be possible by simply cutting new C-clip grooves on the long splined portions of the axles. This part may be long enough to allow some customizing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rick Johnson Posted April 14, 2007 Share Posted April 14, 2007 Terry, Have you considered making and selling your CV set up? Rick Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Racin_Jason Posted April 14, 2007 Share Posted April 14, 2007 Check out the modified lower strut housing. Heim joint lower strut mount? Wild stuff. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blueovalz Posted April 14, 2007 Share Posted April 14, 2007 Have you considered making and selling your CV set up? I believe the machine shop that did these per my drawings still has everything in their files, so there shouldn't be any reason these cannot be duplicated. Again these are for the large joints (930 joints), which are some tough CV jonits designed for the widest allowed working angle. You can see the difference in the amount of the CV outer race that extends from the adapter plates in the two photographs. My guess is that the ones under the 510 are "type 4" joints, which are lighter than the 930 joints. Everything in this assembly is easily found except for the flanges that hold the rubber boots. I'm sure they are available from Porsche, but cannot imagine the price (mine were from a salvage set that I used for templates/practice/fitment). But there are cheaper ways around this. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
preith Posted May 20, 2008 Share Posted May 20, 2008 Sorry to revive an older thread, but I have some points I feel are worth mentioning. I've purchased Todd's kit but have yet to install and run it as I've been layed up with a leg injury. I too was curious what type CV's his kit used, did some searching and found a good website for reference: http://www.blindchickenracing.com/How_to/CVJoints_Axles/cv_joints_101.htm There are a few minor discrepancies, but based on this information the WCR CV's most closely resemble Type2's. I also searched various VW and dune buggy forums to try and find out what hp these are rated for, or which is stronger, and this in itself is a somewhat controversial subject. With that said the general consensus is the 930 joint is only required for higher angles of operation (also supported in the url above) and the type 2 is probably just as strong at lower angles. I found one instance of someone putting down 450 rwhp through stock type 2's, plus the WCR CV's are not 'run of the mill' with hardened cages, etc. Todd's kit is expensive, but the CV's themselves can be had for about $60 each and require no special tools or presses to replace. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blueovalz Posted May 21, 2008 Share Posted May 21, 2008 I agree with your assessment on this. Just as the 280ZX CVs handled the torque of my SBF (289) with never a failure (which was well over the amount of torque from the OEM turbo ZX), the type 2 should be able to best the ZX turbo shafts by quite a bit more, and should offer great reliability in most V8 swaps. Comparing the 930 to the type 2, the components are larger the 930, so there is more strength there, even without the large angles. I think the 930 CVs I used are a bit of overkill, but with the same amount of work involved in machining the adapter plates, it was not an issue to go with bigger CVs, and I wanted a bullet-proof CVs. I will never have to replace these CVs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fp280z Posted December 16, 2008 Share Posted December 16, 2008 Sorry to revive an older thread, but I have some points I feel are worth mentioning. I've purchased Todd's kit but have yet to install and run it as I've been layed up with a leg injury. Did you ever install Todd's CV kit? I have one that I'm installing in the FP car this month along with my suspension upgrades. I'm going to take some pics and do a writeup afterward since there does not seem to be too much information on this site about the kit. BTW, I agree with Jon that there are cheaper ways to get CVs on a Z with an R200 but I was impressed by the build quality of these and wanted a complete solution without having to source rebuilt axles, etc. Plus, as Preith already mentioned the ability to swap out the CV joint very easily is appealing. -Rick Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZZZeee Posted December 16, 2008 Share Posted December 16, 2008 Terry, Any idea on pricing should you offer this kit for sale? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
preith Posted December 17, 2008 Share Posted December 17, 2008 Did you ever install Todd's CV kit? I have one that I'm installing in the FP car this month along with my suspension upgrades. I'm going to take some pics and do a writeup afterward since there does not seem to be too much information on this site about the kit. BTW, I agree with Jon that there are cheaper ways to get CVs on a Z with an R200 but I was impressed by the build quality of these and wanted a complete solution without having to source rebuilt axles, etc. Plus, as Preith already mentioned the ability to swap out the CV joint very easily is appealing. -Rick Yes, I did install them and ran two road races later this year; very happy with them. The kit is top notch, you won't be disappointed. I especially like the heli-coil inserts on the adapter flanges. It also solved the same solid-diff-vibration issues aforementioned by Terry. Straight line speed was noticeably quicker too. In my case, they held up well to approximately 300hp. The only catch, as Todd highly stresses in his instructions, DO NOT over extend, or bend, the CV's past 30 degrees as the ball bearings will fall out and possibly the entire cage assembly. Even knowing this prior I let my guard down for just a moment and it got ugly fast. They were most vulnerable when greasing. Luckily for me it was only 1 or 2 balls and it's not too bad getting them back in, though not too enjoyable after greasing... EDIT: I forgot to mention, Todd does sell an R200 set with one axle 1/2" shorter. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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