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C5 Corvette Chassis Swap


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I've been considering taking a corvette c5 rolling chassis and putting it under a 240z. I've been seeing a lot of these on ebay for 5k-10k. I think this is a pretty good deal.

 

You would need to shorten the torque tube. I'm not sure about the track width. I'd like to measure the track width and see how close the two are.

 

Here is a good thread on LS1Tech of a C5 chassis under a cobra fiberglass body:

 

http://ls1tech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=633359

 

005lld1.jpg

 

005ra3.jpg

 

010on7.jpg

 

 

Another rediculous chassis:

http://ls1tech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=569385

 

Justin

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I've been considering taking a corvette c5 rolling chassis and putting it under a 240z. I've been seeing a lot of these on ebay for 5k-10k. I think this is a pretty good deal.

 

Here is a good thread on LS1Tech of a C5 chassis under a cobra fiberglass body:

 

http://ls1tech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=633359

 

 

Are you trying to put the entire drivetrain into the 240 or did you really want to put a Z body on the corvette chassis? The examples you have listed are really more putting the drivetrain into something else.

 

Both frames are poorly designed and will have much lower torsional stiffness compared to the corvette chassis, which will lead to poor handling compared to the original corvette. So this ends up being a lot of work that has no more payoff than just putting the drivetrain into the Z.

 

I'm not trying to dash your plan but you need to be aware that there's a lot more to how the vette handles and getting that same level of handling in a Z.

 

Cary

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I've been looking to do this with my swap. I have the torque tube and the C5 rear end in my garage. I couldn't find anyone shorten the torque tube around here so I abondoned the idea. I still have the torque tube and rear end though. Looks like that guy found someone shorten and balance the torque tube for a reasonable price. Now if I can find some half shafts that will adapted to the Z's flange I will be golden. Thanks for the link.

V.

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Are you trying to put the entire drivetrain into the 240 or did you really want to put a Z body on the corvette chassis? The examples you have listed are really more putting the drivetrain into something else.

 

Both frames are poorly designed and will have much lower torsional stiffness compared to the corvette chassis, which will lead to poor handling compared to the original corvette. So this ends up being a lot of work that has no more payoff than just putting the drivetrain into the Z.

 

I'm not trying to dash your plan but you need to be aware that there's a lot more to how the vette handles and getting that same level of handling in a Z.

 

Cary

 

 

Cary,

Could you elaborate more on where the frames are poorly designed? Or what should have been done differently? I am about to start on my 240's chassis and I am trying to absorb all the knowledge I can. Thanks!

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I'm using a C5-based front suspension in my 240-Z project. I built a full spaceframe to mount it and had to widen the car's fenders about 10'' as noted above. Now, if I could only find some time to get back to work on the darned thing!

 

http://www.geocities.com/boodlefoof/Project_Racer-Zsuspension3.html

 

I think tube80z's comment is directed at the ladder frame picture posted above. Without a rigid frame to mount the suspension to, it cannot work well. Since the ladder frame has no designed-in resistance to twisting forces other than the strength of the metal used, it will not provide optimal suspension performance. Likewise, the unibody construction of the Z can be improved upon as far as torsional rigidity.

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So the subframe connector/frame rails that many people make out of 2x3 tubing are essentially identical in design, but with even less cross bracing other than stitching them to the floor.

What does a guy do to increase the torsional rigidity of the basic parallel 2x3 frame? Tie the roll cage into the 2x3 as best you can? Then tie the cage to the body? Is there a design that is better than the 2x3 that will fit well into a 240z?

 

I apologize if this is a bit too much of a thread jack.

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I wasn't planning on copy the above chassis. It was just a good example of a shortened torque tube along with the integration of the front and rear suspension into a car other then the corvette. I would likely do something a bit different. I would plan on taking the corvette suspension and all the the driveline, and then designing a tube chassis of sorts that would fit under the z car body.

 

I do realize this is a huge project that would take a lot of design. I'll do some solidworks chassis models to show you guys later tonight.

 

Regards,

Justin

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I wasn't planning on copy the above chassis. It was just a good example of a shortened torque tube along with the integration of the front and rear suspension into a car other then the corvette. I would likely do something a bit different. I would plan on taking the corvette suspension and all the the driveline, and then designing a tube chassis of sorts that would fit under the z car body.

 

My personal feeling from having been a long ways down this road is you'd be better off cutting the front and back off the shell and using a cage to tie a couple of suspension cradles together. Getting a tube car sealed up to deal with weather is a major pain and you already have all that done. Sure it might be lighter but you'll fight leaks forever. I spent far more time dealing with the passenger compartment on my build than I did on the front or rear suspensions. And if you're like me you may end up building two. Because you'll see better ways everything could be done and your skills will get much better.

 

I really like 74 5.0's car. It is a good example of a street car with tubed front. He's got a lot of great pics in his gallery to look at.

 

Cary

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So the subframe connector/frame rails that many people make out of 2x3 tubing are essentially identical in design, but with even less cross bracing other than stitching them to the floor.

What does a guy do to increase the torsional rigidity of the basic parallel 2x3 frame? Tie the roll cage into the 2x3 as best you can? Then tie the cage to the body? Is there a design that is better than the 2x3 that will fit well into a 240z?

 

Build a simple model using balsa and glue. If you put an X into the ladder design it will be a lot better. If you integrate a cage and keep building triangles that hook the front and rear suspension together it will get better. Don't overlook bolt-in structures that cover the engine.

 

I'd recommend you try and find a copy of Costin and Phipps masterpiece on racing and sports car chassis design. It may be old and out of print but has all the relevant info you need.

 

My personal feelings are the 2x3 connectors in 0.120 wall or heavier tubing or a waste in the Z. It sounds like someone is trying to build a half ton truck. I think the bad dog rails or similar or more than enough. Closing the bottom of the tranny tunnel to the rails would help to increase the strength. Then this starts to look more like a backbone design.

 

There's lots to learn and building models, virtual or real, is a good way to see what works and what doesn't. GRAPE is a shareware FEA program you may find useful. Racetech had some articles on how to use it.

 

Cary

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The C5 trans/rear isn't really a transaxle per se. It just bolts the differential housing directly to the trans, rather than having a driveshaft between them. Using this setup on a Z is probably going to make it hard to fit a seat in there. The trans/rear combo is long. The front of the transmission will end up being right next to your butt.

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Build a simple model using balsa and glue. If you put an X into the ladder design it will be a lot better. If you integrate a cage and keep building triangles that hook the front and rear suspension together it will get better. Don't overlook bolt-in structures that cover the engine.

 

I'd recommend you try and find a copy of Costin and Phipps masterpiece on racing and sports car chassis design. It may be old and out of print but has all the relevant info you need.

 

My personal feelings are the 2x3 connectors in 0.120 wall or heavier tubing or a waste in the Z. It sounds like someone is trying to build a half ton truck. I think the bad dog rails or similar or more than enough. Closing the bottom of the tranny tunnel to the rails would help to increase the strength. Then this starts to look more like a backbone design.

 

There's lots to learn and building models, virtual or real, is a good way to see what works and what doesn't. GRAPE is a shareware FEA program you may find useful. Racetech had some articles on how to use it.

 

Cary

 

I have the same feelings about 2x3 tubing. I was going to use .065 or .083 if I can get it. I think that should be more than enough. What do you think?

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In that size I'm not sure if they even make 0.065. It may depend on your steel supplier but I think the thinnest I could get was 0.095. That may dictate what size tube you end up with.

 

My personal feeling is 0.065 would be about the same as the stock rails. I'd start by measuring how thick they are and keeping close to that thickness.

 

Cary

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