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Clutch hardline replacement solutions?


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My clutch hardline was crushed during my swap. I'd really like to replace it with maybe a braided line, but I'm not opposed to hardline. Anybody have an easy solution for this? In the archives somebody mentioned that the autoparts store style bend it yourself 6 foot pipe is almost a perfect fit. I went up to advanced and brought with me my master cylinder and flex line and they didn't have a line with the right size fittings. Anybody happen to know the thread sizes or even better, a place that sells direct fit replacement?

 

-Joe

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My clutch hardline was crushed during my swap. I'd really like to replace it with maybe a braided line, but I'm not opposed to hardline. Anybody have an easy solution for this? In the archives somebody mentioned that the autoparts store style bend it yourself 6 foot pipe is almost a perfect fit. I went up to advanced and brought with me my master cylinder and flex line and they didn't have a line with the right size fittings. Anybody happen to know the thread sizes or even better, a place that sells direct fit replacement?

 

-Joe

 

Is this for a 240 or 260? I have a SS clutch line.

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My clutch hardline was crushed during my swap. I'd really like to replace it with maybe a braided line, but I'm not opposed to hardline. Anybody have an easy solution for this? In the archives somebody mentioned that the autoparts store style bend it yourself 6 foot pipe is almost a perfect fit. I went up to advanced and brought with me my master cylinder and flex line and they didn't have a line with the right size fittings. Anybody happen to know the thread sizes or even better, a place that sells direct fit replacement?

 

-Joe

 

Go to a local hydraulic shop and have a new flex line made, get swivel fitting at both ends.

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First thing that comes to mind is the wrecking yard. If that is not an option and you can not get what you need by any other means I would recomend that you buy two 10 X 1.0 metric inverted flare to -4 fittings (google these fittings), one -4 male to -4 male fitting (McMaster Carr part #50715k261) and a 6' length of 1/4" OD tubing http://www.mcmaster.com/itm/find.ASP?tab=find&context=psrchDtlLink&fasttrack=False&searchstring=89895K24 with two each of the nuts and sleeves (McMaster Carr part #50715k324 and #50715k316).

 

Wherever you find the two 10 X 1.0 metric inverted flare to -4 fittings also purchase a lengh of -4 to -4 braided steel line (measure or get the same length as your stock one) to connect your hardline to your clutch slave. Use one of the metric to -4 fittings in your master cylinder and one in your slave cylinder, using a tubing bender bend the tubing to fit your aplication (then cut the length as needed), put the nut (#50715k324) on one end of the tube then the sleave (#50715k316), using a flaring tool flare the end of the tubing, repeat with the other end of the tubing. Now you can install your new line from the master to the pick up point for the braided steel line, using your male to male -4 fitting connect your lines together then connect to your slave cylinder. Now top up with fluid, bleed and check for leaks (only about 1/4 turn after finger tight on the fittings should insure no leaks). Lastly enjoy the ride.

 

Dragonfly

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I was probably one of the ones that said a local parts store.

 

This is a LOCALLY OWNED store that has a lot of truck accessories. The flaired fitting was the right size and the length was almost perfect, just a little longer then stock.

 

I suggest you shop around, it only cost like ~$10 if that, and it looks completely stock.

Mario

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Awesome, thanks everybody for the help.

 

I've found several z's in the wrecking yard, all of them had the hardline rusted to the piece that connects it to the flex line, and wound up getting a kink before they would budge.

 

Thanks for all the detail, I really appreciate the part numbers and links. I'll try the DIY method first and if/when I get frustrated I'll probably call classictube.

 

Edit: Any reason not to run copper hardlines? I think this would look pretty cool.

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Awesome, thanks everybody for the help.

 

I've found several z's in the wrecking yard, all of them had the hardline rusted to the piece that connects it to the flex line, and wound up getting a kink before they would budge.

 

Thanks for all the detail, I really appreciate the part numbers and links. I'll try the DIY method first and if/when I get frustrated I'll probably call classictube.

 

Edit: Any reason not to run copper hardlines? I think this would look pretty cool.

 

There was a debate not to long ago about running copper lines for brakes and the consenses was that copper lines should never be used for brake lines under any circumstances. In my mind that would include clutch lines. The cost for steel or stainles is not that bad and you know that you will never have a problem nor will you ever get berated by any gear heads that get a look under your hood (just my opinion).

 

Dragonfly

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