proxlamus© Posted April 27, 2007 Share Posted April 27, 2007 I am buying the Autopower "scca/race" roll bar tomarrow... I know its designed to be bolted in, but do you guys (cough Jon) think I should bolt it in or weld the bad boy in my Z?! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sparks280zt Posted April 27, 2007 Share Posted April 27, 2007 Link to where you are getting it from? Im looking for one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
proxlamus© Posted April 27, 2007 Author Share Posted April 27, 2007 http://www.ioportracing.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Category_Code=AP170 also MSA sells em too Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMortensen Posted April 27, 2007 Share Posted April 27, 2007 Bolt it in. When you get serious and need door bars, then sell it to Auxilary and weld up your own... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
proxlamus© Posted April 27, 2007 Author Share Posted April 27, 2007 I was thinking of doing my own, but I figured after the cost of the tubing, a bottle of gas (since im still only doing flux) and a tubing bender this would be the cheaper route. OK bolt it in! thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest TeamNissan Posted April 27, 2007 Share Posted April 27, 2007 I like the sets they sell. When I buy mine I'll prob bolt it in too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
z-ya Posted April 28, 2007 Share Posted April 28, 2007 I have the same one. Bolt it in. I suggest removing the thin harness bar behind the driver seat, and replacing it with a tubular harness bar welded across the rear most vertical tubes. Position it so that it lines up vertically with the harness slots in your seats. The way it comes from Autopower, the driver harness bar is to thin, and gets in the way of seat movement. The passenger seat doesn't have a good place for harness attachment. Do it now before you get it mounted in there. I know it is supposedly SCCA approved, but that driver harness bar is has got to go. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest TeamNissan Posted April 28, 2007 Share Posted April 28, 2007 Good advice, thnx for the heads up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
93anthracite Posted April 28, 2007 Share Posted April 28, 2007 interesting, I would have said to weld it in, but I usually don't think of a rollbar as ever coming out of the car either. Bolt it in, for now . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
240zwannabe Posted September 26, 2007 Share Posted September 26, 2007 sorry to bring this thread back from the dead, but i was just searching through to see if anybody was using the autopower roll bar, and well i did have another question for jon concerning the cage. i already have a S&W 8 point cage, but me being an idiot welding the main hoops cross bar straight across with no bends, now i'm 6' 3" so thats just not going to work. so, if i buy this main hoop and incorporate the weld in S&W cage i already have should i then weld in the bolt it hoop? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMortensen Posted September 26, 2007 Share Posted September 26, 2007 I would just put in a bent section around the driver. Here is what I did for mine: Here is my thread about my cage: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=102715. I used the best info I could find from guys like katman, johnc, 74_5.0L_Z, tube80z, and others to come up with my end result, but I'm not exactly the go to guy on this stuff. This is the first cage I've ever done. These other guys can offer you more experienced advice than I can. Since you asked though, I would avoid trying to make the Autopower work with the S&W because the hoops are probably not in the same place, or at the same height, so I think you'll end up doing a lot of "adjusting" to make it work, if it would at all. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMortensen Posted September 26, 2007 Share Posted September 26, 2007 I just remembered the best S&W cage install I've seen: http://www.geocities.com/projectzt/halfcage.html Austin threw away the plans that have the main hoop supports attaching to the floor and hooked them into the strut towers. He also did the bent bar around the back of the seat. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
auxilary Posted September 26, 2007 Share Posted September 26, 2007 Bolt it in. When you get serious and need door bars, then sell it to Auxilary and weld up your own... ha-ha, thanks for the plug it's still in the car, and serves its purpose quite well! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
240zwannabe Posted September 27, 2007 Share Posted September 27, 2007 the problem is is that i've already welded the main hoop cross bar onto the main hoop. would grinding down those welds compromise structural integrity? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMortensen Posted September 27, 2007 Share Posted September 27, 2007 That is a question for someone else. John, katman? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnc Posted September 27, 2007 Share Posted September 27, 2007 Don't grind any welds on a roll cage or roll bar. The tech inspctors like to see the qaulity of the welds and a ground weld is almost a guaranteed failure and you won't be allowed to run on the track. You can cut the bar out, carefully grind the bead off the main hoop and diagonal, and weld in a curved bar. Just don't grind any welds once you're done with the fab. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
240zwannabe Posted September 28, 2007 Share Posted September 28, 2007 Don't grind any welds on a roll cage or roll bar. The tech inspctors like to see the qaulity of the welds and a ground weld is almost a guaranteed failure and you won't be allowed to run on the track. You can cut the bar out, carefully grind the bead off the main hoop and diagonal, and weld in a curved bar. Just don't grind any welds once you're done with the fab. hmm..thats the problem it's a straight bar so even a careful grinding off of the welds would still be pretty obvious considering the curved bar would be welded on the back of the main hoop. thanks guys Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David K Posted September 28, 2007 Share Posted September 28, 2007 I have a friend selling an autopower bar near san fran if anyone is interested. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
proxlamus© Posted September 28, 2007 Author Share Posted September 28, 2007 im interested..!! how much! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MoNkEyT88 Posted September 29, 2007 Share Posted September 29, 2007 That seems pretty expensive. Another alternative if you want to weld it in would be the jegster 4 point kit. I got the 12 point roll cage kit, and it was less than 430$ that you spend on that roll bar. Although it will take fabrication to install it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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