zlalomz Posted May 25, 2007 Share Posted May 25, 2007 Stunning fabrication work!!! This should be one incredible Z. Is it just me though or is that T/C brace limiting the independent movement of the T/C rods? Shouldn't the brace go to the mounts and not the rods themselves? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ab0z Posted May 25, 2007 Share Posted May 25, 2007 I was worried when I read the title of the thread, but man, I am IMPRESSED. You really ARE bringing sexy back. This build shows real dedication and I can't wait to see it completed! People like this that really love the cars and are willing to put the hard work in themselves are what make this community so awesome. Keep up the good work! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nope Posted May 25, 2007 Author Share Posted May 25, 2007 zlalomz, i noticed the same thing late last nite. im gonna talk to the guys at timemachine about that. stiff rubber washer type things might do the trick depending on the suspension travel i end up with. I guess its sorta like a sway bar haha. Nice lookin out though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zlalomz Posted May 25, 2007 Share Posted May 25, 2007 T/C rods have a history of breaking with stiff bushings front and rear. If they move the mounting points to the brackets it should work. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=70931&highlight=t%2Fc+breaking Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
e_racer1999 Posted May 25, 2007 Share Posted May 25, 2007 car's coming along BEAUTIFULLY! we'll have to meet up sometime, i'm by madison Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nope Posted May 25, 2007 Author Share Posted May 25, 2007 yeah the t/c rod issue will need to be worked out later. time machine had thrown the brace in for free anyway. ah man, but it looks and mounts so slick.. i'll make it work somehow. haha right on e_racer, i live right down the street from madison. i should have the car back at home like mon/tues. my ZG's will probably show up around the same time so I'll be working on the fender cutting after work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nope Posted May 30, 2007 Author Share Posted May 30, 2007 the t/c rod brace will work if i use something like the techno toy tuning ones or have time machine fab something similar. only thing is that i might be losing that rubber isolator to a heim joint. never seen these mounted, anyone currently using them? still using the rubber? im also noticing switching to a real pivot would lessen resistance in suspension travel which is always good to eliminate aside from the shocks and springs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bry593 Posted May 30, 2007 Share Posted May 30, 2007 wow!!!! whomever is doing the fabrication on this is hella good!!! i'm an engineer and am pretty damn picky about this sorta thing, but i have to say DAAAYYYYUUUUMMMMM!!!! these guys are right on!!!! very impressive! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nope Posted May 31, 2007 Author Share Posted May 31, 2007 yeah, these guys are great. not a single problem yet, and they work quickly. im a mechanical engineer too and i notice they always come up with simple and clean fab designs, the best type. i love it. theyre not cheap, but if you want exceptional work done on your car this is the place to go. i recommend them to anyone in so cal. time machine racecraft in oceanside. the guys are tho and niko. haha i love all the DAAAAYYYUUMM's my car is getting now. thanks for the support everyone. Btw, anyone here using the TTT t/c rods? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ARZ_ Posted May 31, 2007 Share Posted May 31, 2007 If you run AZC full front Control arm setup you wont have any problems at all. Heres a photo of my front control arm setup from AZC. And one from www.arizonazcar.com website Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
X64v Posted May 31, 2007 Share Posted May 31, 2007 ^^^^ perfect solution. The attention to detail on the fab work is absolutely sick. My mouth's watering at some of the stuff you've got on there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
a6t8vw Posted June 14, 2007 Share Posted June 14, 2007 did you cad plate that crossmember? looks sick... damn dude your car is bomb.... mad props Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
benitoz Posted June 14, 2007 Share Posted June 14, 2007 Are the sleevs supposed to be welded up that high ? I just bought these and was looking at the install page on daves page and it looked like the were welded much further down ? any reason for this ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JIM73240Z Posted June 14, 2007 Share Posted June 14, 2007 did you cad plate that crossmember? looks sick... damn dude your car is bomb.... mad props yes, andy had them plated. very nice job. jimbo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JIM73240Z Posted June 14, 2007 Share Posted June 14, 2007 Are the sleevs supposed to be welded up that high ? I just bought these and was looking at the install page on daves page and it looked like the were welded much further down ? any reason for this ? the fronts are welded down at the base while the rears are up 5-6". jimbo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nope Posted June 16, 2007 Author Share Posted June 16, 2007 Jimbo, do you have this coilover kit installed din your car? I found my rears needed to get welded much lower. I guess I'll find out if I'm wrong about that after I finish some other undercar work and set the car down. I had the welds in my previous pics of the rear struts ground off and made much lower. I'm almost embarrassed to say how low until I'm sure it's right. ahah. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JIM73240Z Posted June 16, 2007 Share Posted June 16, 2007 funny how you mention this. i cut my struts a while back and got super busy at work and they sat for several months. i just came in from the garage from test fitting in my wheels and it looks like it hase to be near the 4" mark to clear the collar. i am running the same set up as 2fiddy but with 10's in the back instead of the 9's. 2 fiddy said that daves was a little long. but i do not remember how much too long. i will have to stop by and measure his set up. i am running 17" rims. your weld look amazing. i was going to do it my self untill i saw that. cant be out done by too much:mrgreen: jimbo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nope Posted June 17, 2007 Author Share Posted June 17, 2007 ive got 17x10s in the rear too (285's with 40 aspect ratio) and my rear collars are pretty much welded to the hub casting like the fronts. however, im planning on cutting a lot of fender out for the flares and tucking my new fuel cell and exhaust up pretty tightly. i measured everything out several times but it's way lower than the instructions show so im pretty nervous about it still. ill let you know how it turns out so you can get some relevant input from someone using this size wheel. my transmission will be back on by tomorrow, so at that point ill just have to cut some material from the quarter panels to allow me to drop the car back down without bottoming on the tires. ill fit the flares after that and post. its gonna be a tough one to 1up these welds. (i didnt weld these, timemachine did) anyway good luck jimbo. get those damn things on! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JIM73240Z Posted June 17, 2007 Share Posted June 17, 2007 i am sure my welds wont look that good but better than what i can do is better. i am going over to 2fiddy's tommorow after work to do the final mock up on his car with my stuff. i will let you know what i find out. andy (2fiddy) said that dave had a few different lengths of collar which will make a difference. i will find out that as well. i am tired of driving my stepsons truck every day. jimbo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JIM73240Z Posted July 4, 2007 Share Posted July 4, 2007 ok. just got back from 2fiddys house and took some measurements. note: i have 5zigen rims 17x10 w/ 35mm bs (should be 25mm, oh well). from base of the strut to the top of welded collar needs to be 7". this of course will be different with different size rims. with this info i will go to the welders on thurs to get welded up nice and purdy:mrgreen: hope this helps jimbo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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