ab0z

Cool! If I hadn't already done mine, I would purchase it! Highly recommend anyone considering this job buy it immediately!

Yeah that's what prompted the comment, I used to work in a factory running a press for this type of item, and they look pretty hot off the press. (lenses are actually uncomfortably warm when they come out of the machine)

Could almost make the tooling to produce new lights for that price...

Are you kidding? That's loud as HELL.

Surprisingly, there are no bids.

This is beautiful!

If you are unable to acquire the tool you can use a hydraulic press as well, it just requires removal of the A-arm/Control arm along with the strut assembly and probably a second person's assistance to balance things while setting up the press. I have found that a large socket 1/2" drive works to support the bottom of it, and you will want several dowels approximately the diameter of the spindle pin in 1" increments from 1-6" to use on the top to press the spindle out. If anyone wants I can take a few pictures when I do the other side.

I think they were looking for an actual shop that does the work, not a place to buy cheap crap to stick on your car.

THAT is what I like to hear!

I still read this thread every update!

Just posting to let you know I anxiously await each update! I'll soon be starting on my own project and I know I'll use a lot of what I learned by watching you work!

Hah! that is awesome! Fortunately the car is now in the hands of someone who's not dangerously inept.

Keep up the good work! My car will look like yours in a month or 2 if I can get the tools I need. I'll need all the inspiration and motivation I can get!

7 hours to remove it? Man that's a long time to unplug some wiring and unbolt a transmission. Tell him you'll roll in there and yank that thing yourself!

West River Collision in Comstock Park, MI. They did Minor Work on my friend's new corvette. Also Dubois body shop in Grand Rapids, they redid the rear bumper cover on his girlfriend's mazda3.

You have parts for sale, we have a classifieds section. It's a match made in forums heaven.

Thanks for the input guys - I will research my engine management options further before proceeding. If anyone has any additional comments feel free to add!

Oh sorry, should have included that. (forgot it didn't show on the left on this forum) My car is a 1978 280z. Jan. '78 mfg. date, engine is N42/N47.

I want to so some mild upgrades to my stock motor, and I am considering going with the MSA cam (480/274) and MSA 3-2 headers and exhaust. I would be leaving everything else stock (intake, fuel system, etc.). Will this cam actually improve performance with stock engine management? If so, is there any data on using a cam of this grind (or similar) on a stock L28E motor that can help me know what power gains to expect? Is this cam a good choice to go with this header? Would the MSA 6-1 header be a better match for this cam? Would this cam grind be considered streetable? I did some searching around but didn't find much relating specifically to what I'm thinking about doing. Thanks in advance if you can help, or if you can direct me to a thread that has the answers I seek!

Piles of motors all over ebay, some even with warranties. Also call your local junkyards.

LS2 with affordable mods would put you close in power output, for about half the cost. Wanna go nuts, APS has developed a nice twin-turbo kit for the LS2. it's about 8k from most vendors, but with rods and pistons (and EM) you'll be lookin at like 700hp with a safe tune.

Sorry for the delay in response, I drove my subaru to work today so I couldn't just look, and for some reason I couldn't RDP into my home computer and therefore couldn't refer to the Factory Service Manual. On the bottom of the Throttle body there is a vacuum port. There is a short hose coming off of that going to a T connector, one of the sides goes to the evap. system, and one side goes to the dist. spark advance. Download the 280z Factory Service manual from carfiche.com and go to page ET-2. In the piping diagram the T connector in question is item 12.

Well if the flanges are readily available, then maybe you could turn it into a split pulse header for a twin-scroll turbo?

Of further concern is how the exhaust exits the manifold in 2 seperate runners - I'm not sure how you're gonna adapt that to the flange on the exhaust housing of the turbo.

Seems like a lot of work for little benefit. Your first issue will be the flange that the turbo will need to bolt to. You could fab it, but for all that work you might as well just get a turbo maifold and do a good port job, or maybe even just build a nice tubular manifold. Not to discourage you though, let us know if you decide to try it.