LT1 vs LS1

[Guest corner27]

I have been reading quite a bit about doing a swap. My question is engine wise what's the diff? I know the LS1 has a aluminum block, but does it have higher hp specs? as far as installing goes, is it any more difficult? or pretty much the same? Thanks in advance

[Sparks280zt]

Why would you put a v8 in a Z???

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

jk. Search, its all been answered before.

[Guest TeamNissan]

lol sparks

[Guest corner27]

hmm, I couldnt find it, but I will try and look some more

[Sparks280zt]

I can tell you that an LT1 can use the JTR mounts while an LS1 can not use the JTR mounts.

[Guest TeamNissan]

and that the ls1 is atleast twice the price. Has like what? 80ish hp more though.

[Guest corner27]

well that's good to know. not sure if it's worth the extra 80 hp. I mean, an LT1's going to make the thing move pretty good already

[Pop N Wood]

You might want to search some more. There are huge differences between the two engines you are looking at.

 

The LS motors have so much more potential than the LT motors. The biggest difference is in the cylinder heads.

http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=81151&highlight=order

 

There are countless articles on the web of car magazines that get over 500 HP from LS engines with basic cam changes.

 

 

LT motors can use the JTR mounting kit. LS motors can use John's car's mounting kits.

 

LT motors have a poorly desinged distributor mounted underneath the water pump. Those pigs are expensive to replace. LS motors have individual coils for each plug.

 

Cost is a huge difference. LT motors are considerably cheaper initially. But they only made them for a few years back in the 90's. They are getting harder to come by.

 

If you are on a budget and want a fast car that idles like a stocker, then go with an LT motor. Get an iron head version out of a Caprice and save even more. If you want over 400 HP, then the LS motor will be your cheapest route to big numbers like that.

[Mikelly]

I have to echo what Sportnachubby just posted...

 

The LS1 is in my opinion a far superior motor design, and there's been so much development work done by the aftermarket community that getting 500Crank HP is pretty common now days. YES, it's a more expensive motor to start with, but it will reward you in more ways at a cheaper end cost.

 

I built a forged bottom LS1 with ported heads/TR224 cam kit and I think I had maybe $6200 in everything, when I still had my C5 Vette. The motor tuned well and I made an honest 386whp and 382#ft. of torque. That motor in a Zcar would have been awesome.

 

Mike

[Guest corner27]

What would be the costs for them? would the LS be double? or not that high

[Pete84]

The iron block LQ truck motors are the same design wise as the LS's but come much cheaper.

[Guest corner27]

but I imagine it would not have the "performance" parts the ls1 would have.

[9kredline]

Same blocks, same performance upgrades. The only difference is accessory mounting locations and iron block vs aluminum. Engine dropouts with trans are around $1200-3000 depending on year/mileage and 5.3L/6.0L.

 

Would be an easy way to have the better platform now and save up to build an aluminum block on the side if that's what your goal is.

[TravRMK]

so would a T56 bolt up to a 6.0 out of a 3/4 ton truck, as well as say, the Corvette ECM?

[Guest corner27]

so are the hp specs the same from a LQ vs the LS? Why would people not use them then?

[Dudeboy]

Before I started my swap two reasons LS vs LQ; 1.Sadly, more folks are crashing F-body Trans-Am and Camaros than GM Trucks or SUV so the used drivetrains are more available 2. The experts can correct me -but the oil pan is different than the F-bodies. Having said that, the Corvette and GTO oil pans are different as well, but if you locate a drivetrain for a good deal it is worth changing the oil-pick tube, and pan to a F-body pan. There are some guys making custom mounts, but if you are not making custom mounts, the F-body oil-pan works well with the Johns Cars LS kit. I lucked out on a 2002 Trans-Am WS6 LS1/4L60E, but if I were to start over - I would look for a GTO drivetrain (drive by wire and pedals)change the oil-pan and whatever else that is needed. Just my 2 cents.

[Pop N Wood]

Car craft did an article where they picked up a junk yard truck 6.0L and got 500 HP basically with a cam and valve spring upgrade. They did put on a carb'd intake but only because they wanted it done quick.

 

The problems with a truck motors in a Z are the intakes are too tall, the oil pan too deep and the accessories don't fit. That means you need an intake and accessories off of a F body car and an LS2 vette oil pan and pick up tube. The F body pan works, but as long as you are buying one the LS2 pan is better, especially for a Z. Then you need to get the 6 speed you want, along with the clutch and flywheel. I don't know if the computers are the same between the trucks and F bodies.

 

There went any money you might have saved buying the truck engine.

 

And good luck finding F body LS1 accessories in a junk yard. They only made LS F bodies for a few years, and when JY's get them they sell them whole and not in parts. So ebay or GM direct.

[Lighft01]

If it helps with your price estimate, i just picked up a complete pullout LS6, with pcm harness and even a bellhousing for $3800. Only had 27k on it. You could probably get an entire car for around that and just part it out. Ive seen LS1 Pullouts for less, and more really just depends on who is selling them. Check out LS1tech.com, in the for sale section there is a guy who has like 3 ls1/t56 pullouts and 2 or 3 ls1/4l60 pullouts (auto). Ill see if i can find the link.

[Lighft01]

http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=718430 Ls1 dropout $$2800

 

This is the guy i was talking about you might want to pm him and see what he can get you.

http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=719175

 

As far as the 6.0 iron blocks go thats what most of the Fbody guys are going to because they will hold more power than the aluminum ls1, but i think the ls1 block will around 800hp, not 100% but im pretty sure i read that somewhere. My buddy has a 6.0 block, cam, headers, intake, and angle milled heads and is making 450whp. Nasty little trans am, i dont need to say hes gonna hate the day when the ls6 goes in my 280. IMO id go with the LS1 you are going to have such an easier time finding stock and aftermarket parts, plus all the parts from the ls1/6 swap out so you can always swap the ls6 intake, cam, heads on your ls1 later down the road. Even then if you decide to go with a truck motor after that all your accessories, intake, heads, cam will swap to the 6.0.

[wheelman]

Just for comparison to the whp Mikelly stated for his LS1 my iron head LT1 put down 274 rwhp @ 5800 rpm and 307 ft/lbs @ 3800.

I've installed an LT4 Hot Cam, high rev valve springs, removed the AC, PS, and all emissions equipment. The total cost for my drive train including the upgrades is about $2,000. That's the engine with the mods, tranny (WC T5), clutch, flywheel, bell housing and custom drive shaft.

 

With the power level I'm putting down the car is a real brute, I can't imagine 400 rwhp in a Z, it would be a blast.

 

Another major difference between the LS and LT engines is the weight. With the LT1 in my car it weighs about 2550 lbs with a distribution of 52/48 front to rear. The LS1 swap will actually place more weight on the rear than the front due to the much heavier T56 transmission.

 

Wheelman