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Ordered a 10.5lb Fidanza Flywheel


cygnusx1

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Well, since I am going to be installing Austin Hokes old Z32 5-speed, I figured it was a good time to upgrade the flywheel. I do heel and toe alot when I drive and really appreciate a fast throttle response. The reason I am posting is that I think I got a good deal. It should be here in a few days, and then I need to wait for Austin Hoke's transmission.

 

$319 Shipped at http://www.importperformanceparts.net/imports/fidanza_nissan.html

 

fidanza-aluminum-flywheel.jpg

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What I paid for mine also... a few months ago there was a thread about the length of the bolts used to hold the cluth and pressure plate to the Fidanza wheel... the post said that Fidanza drills its holes for these bolts shallow and your stock bolts will bottom out. Well I showed some pictures of mine torqued into place (with lock washers) and the assembly was flush and proper, well I learned about two weeks after that that my bolts actualy bottomed out at about the same time they pulled the assembly flush. When I heard the noise it was a little late, one of the bolts had come completely out and managed to wedge itself between the flywheel and the bellhousing. I was fortunate that the damage was very minor but when I pulled the transmission I found every bolt had backed out and at least one was so loose it fell out in my hand when I grabbed it.

 

The cure for this is to purchase bolts (I used grade 8) that are 1/8" shorter than the stock boltsthen use a lock washer, I also used loctite when I reassembled everything. I have again since that time pulled the transmission to check and verify everthing and I am happy to say that the problem has been taken care of.

 

I would highly recomend that you purchase new shorter bolts to install your clutch and pressure plate with but if you are in a hurry or can not find the right bolts here is a test you can do to make sure you do not have the same problem I did. Install the entire assembly and torque down the bolts as if you are doing the final assembly but do NOT use loctite, after every thing is bolted up and torqued down remove one bolt and useing a good light examine the bottom of the bolt hole to see if the bolt bottomed out, remove all of the bolts and examine each hole, if any one of them bottomed out change the bolts. After you have verified that you have not bottomed out then you can assemble with loctite and feel confident that you will not have any problems with it.

 

Dragonfly

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Holy smokes! I got the flywheel already! That was the fastest free shipping I have ever received.

 

Dragonfly, thanks for the advice. I will use a caliper and do the math to see of the bolt length adds up. If they are long, I will probably grind them, chase them, and locktite them. Alternatively, I will get some high grade bolts from McMaster.

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whats it like drivn with such a light flywheel anyways???

 

After I fixed my issues I would have to say it is nice after you get moving, the throttle response is great. I personaly have some issues with clutch chatter when taking off from a dead stop but that could be from the 6 puck clutch more so than anything else.

 

Dragonfly

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I use an ACT 6-puck unsprung disc and it chatters even on the stock flywheel. I am sure it's going to be worse with a light flywheel. I am hoping I can live with it or I will switch to either a 6-puck sprung or a solid sprung disc.

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I use an ACT 6-puck unsprung disc and it chatters even on the stock flywheel. I am sure it's going to be worse with a light flywheel. I am hoping I can live with it or I will switch to either a 6-puck sprung or a solid sprung disc.

 

I have no problem living with mine... Here is a pic of mine

S1010017.jpg

 

Dragonfly

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Dragonfly,

 

I posted a while back about having the same problem with my Fidanza flywheel. I got shorter bolts as well, but I can't remember what length they are now. I was able to torque the shorter bolts down without any problem.

 

Fidanza also said that they could drill out the flywheel holes if you send the flywheel back to them, but I figured the shorter bolts would hold fine.

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The cure for this is to purchase bolts (I used grade 8) that are 1/8" shorter than the stock boltsthen use a lock washer, I also used loctite when I reassembled everything. I have again since that time pulled the transmission to check and verify everthing and I am happy to say that the problem has been taken care of.

 

Grade 8? Those are metric threads - no such thing. Do you mean grade 8.8? If so, those are roughly equivalent to "standard" grade 5.

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I have no problem living with mine... Here is a pic of mine

S1010017.jpg

 

Dragonfly

 

Yeah that disc has a sprung center. Mine is solid! No give. All the chatter goes right to my teeth. Where can I get just the Disc? I can't seem to find anyone that sells just the disc.

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Grade 8? Those are metric threads - no such thing. Do you mean grade 8.8? If so, those are roughly equivalent to "standard" grade 5.

 

You are correct, the bolts that I purchased were the metric equivilent that was closest to an ASE grade 8. I do not remember off the top of my head what the metric indication is. I am very fortunate that within walking distance of my work there is a huge bolt and fastener supply place, I just walked in showed them the old bolts, asked for the metric equivilent to an 8 and in a matter of minutes I had them in hand.

 

cygnusx1 this is the place where I got my clutch and pressure plate http://www.southlandclutch.com/ they will sell you just the clutch if that is what you want. They are an actual manufacturer and can build you what ever you would like. If you call them try to talk to Kim (Kim is a guy) or if he is not available talk to Tom. Who ever you talk to let them know that Miles from the Z club of San Diego told you to call and you should be able to get a club discount (about 10%) off the regular price.

 

Dragonfly

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My transmission is out of the car for a warranty issue so I went out and took a couple of quick pictures.

 

This picture is a little out of focus but you can see the new bolts that I am using, they are a capscrew type with a built on washer, they also have a short shoulder on them.

S1010005-1.jpg

 

This picture shows the damage that the bolt that came out did to the inside of the bellhousing. I threw all the old bolts away without taking a picture but the bolt that did that damage was smashed almost beyond recognition.

S1010006.jpg

 

I have that flywheel, and I had to use shorter bolts with it as well. I have a Nissan 6 puck clutch disc that has the center springs. It drives and responds very nicely with only minimal chatter upon initial takeoff.

 

I do remember your post and at that time I did not realize that mine were also to long, I just wish mine had been to long enough to have been obvious... it would have saved me a lot of swear words and time.

 

mike321go Yes that is on an L28 block, but the block has nothing to do with the length of the bolts that hold the clutch/pressure plate to the flywheel.

Dragonfly

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Yeah that disc has a sprung center. Mine is solid! No give. All the chatter goes right to my teeth. Where can I get just the Disc? I can't seem to find anyone that sells just the disc.

 

 

I run a clutchnet sprung 4 puck, grabs like a motherf*cker and doesn't chatter much at all, just took a little getting used to. Not bad for the like $130 i paid.

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