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L Series Block Brace


oinojo

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  • 3 months later...

Going back to the original topic...

 

Using a load bearing oil pan helps with block strength does it not? Designs like the cast aluminum pan on the 944, 951, etc. are load bearing oil pans... and they have a gasket with metal spacers that allows the pan to be directly connected to the sealing surface.

 

I suppose the same benefit could be had from using the cast aluminum pans available for our engine?

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Someone wanted a link, so I finally got around to making a link to my you-tube video extraction. Shiftlight comes on at 9300 and 9500 rpms depending on gear selection.

 

 

Another, with slightly lower shiftpoints, 9200 and 9300 if I recall correctly...

 

 

This one was from last year, without the dual exhaust, but Dave Mis-Shifted and this tells you what happens when you go from 2nd to 5th and then take forever to figure out what you did... I mean, you can hear it come on the cam pretty clearly...

 

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  • 4 months later...
raami, how does that connect to the block and the mains? are the bolt surfaces on the same plane?

 

No I have to machine a 10.5mm thick washers between that brace and the mains. And that's why I also have to have longer main bolts.

Brace and washers are made of steel.

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Raami could you provide us with a writeup on how you constructed this? How did you form your template? What thickness is the material and how did you machine it ie cnc mill ect? Also how have you adjusted your oil pickup to work, im assuming that this adds a bit of space between the pan and block and may throw off pickup location? btw great work!

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I make the model by myself. I measured everything and made draft to paper.

Then I draw that on autocad on my computer. I work on cnc plasma-cutting machine so I just cut that brace with it.

Then I mark those holes and drill.

That oil pickup pipe moves the same distance as the oilpan so the space will be the same. That brace will be between block and oil pickup pipe. I just drilled holes for that too.

The brace is only 6mm thick but I think it will be strong enough because it will attach so thick and fast.

I will seal the gap, between brace and block and also between brace and oilpan, with sealing glue. (Sorry I don't know the exact word) :frown:

 

 

Please try to understand my writing. My english isn't perfect. :D

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Sounds like a nice setup you have. Does the brace replace the mains, or act as a support for them? It seems as if most braces completely replace the mains. Can't wait to see it up and running.

 

It supports the mains.

Those spacers are 10.5mm thick because then there will be about 0.5mm space between brace and block's bolt circle. (oilpan bolts)

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Don't apologize for your English! Especially with a nice brace like that to your credit. I only wish my Finnish was as good as your English...

 

All I can remember is Soumi, Sauna, Sisu, and of course "Eeeey, Buska Paa!"... (spelling in Finnish is not a strongpoint of mine! LOL)

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Someone wanted a link, so I finally got around to making a link to my you-tube video extraction. Shiftlight comes on at 9300 and 9500 rpms depending on gear selection.

 

 

Another, with slightly lower shiftpoints, 9200 and 9300 if I recall correctly...

 

 

This one was from last year, without the dual exhaust, but Dave Mis-Shifted and this tells you what happens when you go from 2nd to 5th and then take forever to figure out what you did... I mean, you can hear it come on the cam pretty clearly...

 

 

Tony, just found this thread...

 

Engine sounds awesome.

 

 

I like the "Dashy" :mrgreen:

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Nice job on that block brace.

 

I have a quick question reguarding that particular design of it though. since the mains caps are a pretty tight tolerence fit what kind affect would this possible have on torquing the main bolts down? if the brace was in any way flexing and pulling up on those mains wouldn't it affect the how tight those bolts are holding the caps down? are you just going to crank them down a little tighter and hope for the best.

 

this is a pretty critical part of the engine. if they are too lose or too tight it could cause improper oiling, ruin the crank, or worse.

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No I will put those mains in stock tight and I think it will be ok because the brace will even the stress in one main. And like I said before, that brace will be strong because it will attach so thick and fast.

 

But of course I do know that I might be wrong and the engine might blow up. :D

 

and Tony: You're doing just fine but it is suomi and paskapää... :D

Have you been in Finland?

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