Bartman Posted August 7, 2007 Author Share Posted August 7, 2007 got side pics yet?Still waiting for the 5" rear sleeves before I can put it on the ground. Should be here in a couple of days. So far in addition to the wheels and tires I've had to purchase spacers, longer wheel studs, shorter springs, longer rear sleeves and new thread nuts for the sleeves (different thread). The front adapters I already had look like they're going to work and I rolled my rear fenders myself for free. Wheels $550 Tires $750 Spacers $29 Sleeves and nuts $75 Wheel studs $31 Used springs $65 Having 275's tucked under stock fenders...priceless. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Silver Mine Motors Posted August 12, 2007 Share Posted August 12, 2007 does the front wheel rub when you turn the wheel all the way? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bartman Posted August 12, 2007 Author Share Posted August 12, 2007 does the front wheel rub when you turn the wheel all the way?Looks like it's going to clear. I'm working out issues with getting the rear springs to sit above the rear tires and then I can put it on the ground. It looks like I just need to raise my coilover sleeves with some new lower supports welded above the old ones. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danno74Z Posted August 12, 2007 Share Posted August 12, 2007 Hi Bart, From all accounts I thought 10.5" tire width on a 9" rim was the largest tire one could stuff in the rear even going with the short springs to clear the tire -275mm is 10.826". (no flairs) What spring rate are you considering using in the rear? Thanks, Danno74Z Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bartman Posted August 12, 2007 Author Share Posted August 12, 2007 Hi Bart, From all accounts I thought 10.5" tire width on a 9" rim was the largest tire one could stuff in the rear even going with the short springs to clear the tire -275mm is 10.826". (no flairs) What spring rate are you considering using in the rear? Thanks, Danno74Z To start I have a set of used 250 lb 8" springs. I'll have to see if binding will be a problem or not at that rate. I think I'm able to go with a little wider rim due to the 18" diameter. I've moved the wheel throughout it's travel range without springs on, and it looks like it will work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMortensen Posted August 12, 2007 Share Posted August 12, 2007 To start I have a set of used 250 lb 8" springs. I'll have to see if binding will be a problem or not at that rate. I think I'm able to go with a little wider rim due to the 18" diameter. I've moved the wheel throughout it's travel range without springs on, and it looks like it will work. I'm shocked, in fact, I really am having a hard time believing it. I figured if the tire didn't hit the inner fenderwell, it would hit the outer part where it curves down to the fender lip. Did you have a tire on when you were testing this? Both areas were a problem with my smaller diameter tires and I had to cut more and more of the outer lip away to allow clearance. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danno74Z Posted August 12, 2007 Share Posted August 12, 2007 Bart, I HOPE it works out for you with your rim and tire combination - you are breaking new ground - Cool. Never say never - right. I have always wondered if one could cut the top strut houses off of the strut tower and graft in about 2" of steel all the way around (an extension) then weld the top piece back on. Then you could move your collar and lower spring perch up the 2" to clear everything and you would not have to use such a small spring. Just a thought. Danno74Z Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bartman Posted August 12, 2007 Author Share Posted August 12, 2007 I'm shocked, in fact, I really am having a hard time believing it. I figured if the tire didn't hit the inner fenderwell, it would hit the outer part where it curves down to the fender lip. Did you have a tire on when you were testing this? Both areas were a problem with my smaller diameter tires and I had to cut more and more of the outer lip away to allow clearance.Post #53 has the pic's from my testing with the tires on. I'm sorry this is taking so long to get the rear spring situation fixed so that I can get this on the ground, it seems like it's taking forever. BTW - To weld on a new support ring for the threaded sleeve to rest on, do I have to disassemble the strut? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dragonfly Posted August 13, 2007 Share Posted August 13, 2007 I know this is not what you want to hear but I personaly feel that you would be far ahead to remove the old welded ring all together then weld on the new in the higher location, and yes you should dissassemble the strut assembly for any welding. A good friend of mine who races his Z (track only car) did not weld anything on his, he had a series of 6160-T6 aluminum sleeves machined to fit snugly over the strut tube then the threaded sleeve is set on top of that. That setup has worked for him reliably for a couple of years now. I have always wondered if one could cut the top strut houses off of the strut tower and graft in about 2" of steel all the way around (an extension) then weld the top piece back on. Then you could move your collar and lower spring perch up the 2" to clear everything and you would not have to use such a small spring. Just a thought. I have thought about that and I don't see why it would not work but I also think that it will be a lot of work to make it truly correct and reliable. Dragonfly Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bartman Posted August 13, 2007 Author Share Posted August 13, 2007 I know this is not what you want to hear but I personaly feel that you would be far ahead to remove the old welded ring all together then weld on the new in the higher location, and yes you should dissassemble the strut assembly for any welding. A good friend of mine who races his Z (track only car) did not weld anything on his, he had a series of 6160-T6 aluminum sleeves machined to fit snugly over the strut tube then the threaded sleeve is set on top of that. That setup has worked for him reliably for a couple of years now. Dragonfly I figured I would need to disassemble, but why would I need to remove the existing welded rings? The new one's would be welded on about an inch or two above the existing one's. If I could get aluminum sleeve spacers an inch or two long that would rest on the existing welded rings that would be great. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danno74Z Posted August 13, 2007 Share Posted August 13, 2007 Bart, I might be missing something here but why not buy 1 aluminum sleeve and cut it in half and use it as a spacer to rest your new/old sleeves on. This way you don't have to remove the old weld ring, which I’m sure, is welded on to the strut tube extremely well. Danno74Z Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dragonfly Posted August 13, 2007 Share Posted August 13, 2007 I figured I would need to disassemble, but why would I need to remove the existing welded rings? The new one's would be welded on about an inch or two above the existing one's. If I could get aluminum sleeve spacers an inch or two long that would rest on the existing welded rings that would be great. There are a couple of reasons that I can think of for removing the existing ones. The first and predominant reason is clearance, you are trying to create as much of a safe clearance as possible for the tires you want to run, you may not want a piece of steel sticking out 1/4" to 1/2" from your strut tube. Second reason: although it is not much that is pure unsprung weight there. Third reason (hypothetical): car show observer: "wow you got a nice looking car but what is that ring on there for?" Bartman: "umm well I changed my mind..." Dragonfly Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bartman Posted August 13, 2007 Author Share Posted August 13, 2007 Bart, I might be missing something here but why not buy 1 aluminum sleeve and cut it in half and use it as a spacer to rest your new/old sleeves on. This way you don't have to remove the old weld ring, which I’m sure, is welded on to the strut tube extremely well. Danno74Z Are you referring to using the threaded sleeve as a spacer? If so, I don't think it's thick enough to work as a spacer. The metal is extremely thin. If i could find a thicker aluminum sleeve to use as a spacer, then I think that would work just fine.There are a couple of reasons that I can think of for removing the existing ones. The first and predominant reason is clearance, you are trying to create as much of a safe clearance as possible for the tires you want to run, you may not want a piece of steel sticking out 1/4" to 1/2" from your strut tube. Second reason: although it is not much that is pure unsprung weight there. Third reason (hypothetical): car show observer: "wow you got a nice looking car but what is that ring on there for?" Bartman: "umm well I changed my mind..." Dragonfly The existing ring doesn't interfere as far as clearance goes, but it is unsprung weight. I'll look at it, but I think it would be difficult to remove without a lot of cutting and grinding. I have my old 240 strut tubes that I could install instead, but I don't know if it would be worth swapping them out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clifton Posted August 14, 2007 Share Posted August 14, 2007 The lack of thickness won't be a problem. I used aluminum tube to hold the threaded sleeve up on my 71' after I ground off the weld bead. I spaced it up off the bottom at the knuckle. Haven't had any problems. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
240zwannabe Posted August 14, 2007 Share Posted August 14, 2007 how big is the lip on the 9.5's? my lip on my 9's is 2 3/4 inch, except i went with the darker black version. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bartman Posted August 14, 2007 Author Share Posted August 14, 2007 how big is the lip on the 9.5's? my lip on my 9's is 2 3/4 inch, except i went with the darker black version.The 9.5's have over 3" lips on them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dragonfly Posted August 14, 2007 Share Posted August 14, 2007 Are you referring to using the threaded sleeve as a spacer? If so, I don't think it's thick enough to work as a spacer. The metal is extremely thin. If i could find a thicker aluminum sleeve to use as a spacer, then I think that would work just fine.The existing ring doesn't interfere as far as clearance goes, but it is unsprung weight. I'll look at it, but I think it would be difficult to remove without a lot of cutting and grinding. I have my old 240 strut tubes that I could install instead, but I don't know if it would be worth swapping them out. You are right it would be a true pain to cut and grind off the old ring, enough so that if you decide to do that it may be less frustraiting to swap in the old 240 strut tubes but if it is not in the way leave it there and use a spacer with it. As far as the aluminum piece goes I would suggest that you try to purchase a piece of tubing that is the same ID as the spring perch ring and about half the OD of the ring, have these spacers cut by someone with a fixture that can insure a straight cut and equal length. If you can not find aluminum tubing in the correct dimensions get a piece with the correct OD then have the ID drilled or cut. Remember measure twice cut once. Dragonfly Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danno74Z Posted August 14, 2007 Share Posted August 14, 2007 Hi Bart, I went to the shop and measured the OD of my rear strut tube and they are a few thousands over 2". I have an early 260Z so it should be the same as your 240. Here is a suggestion. Why not go to a muffler shop and pick-up some 2" ID exhaust pipe and have them slightly expand it for you and cut to any length you need. Should be good to go and cost you very little. You might purchase several different lengths to find the sweet spot on the coilover adjustment collar. Danno74Z Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bartman Posted August 14, 2007 Author Share Posted August 14, 2007 Hi Bart, I went to the shop and measured the OD of my rear strut tube and they are a few thousands over 2". I have an early 260Z so it should be the same as your 240. Here is a suggestion. Why not go to a muffler shop and pick-up some 2" ID exhaust pipe and have them slightly expand it for you and cut to any length you need. Should be good to go and cost you very little. You might purchase several different lengths to find the sweet spot on the coilover adjustment collar. Danno74Z I'm using larger diameter 280Z strut tubes, but trying to use a spacer seems like it would be the easiest way to go. I'll see what I can find. edit: I found this online http://www.speedymetals.com/pc-4597-7972-2-12-od-x-025-wall-tube-6061-t6-aluminum.aspx Sounds like it would work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
S30 SPL Posted August 15, 2007 Share Posted August 15, 2007 Bartman, so what did the effective offset of the front and back end up to be? What tire sizes are you runinng? The wheels are 9.5 in back and 8.5 in front right? I am in So Cal and would love to see this setup if you are ok with it...I am shopping for wheels and want to make sure I get as wide as possible. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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