toki Posted July 22, 2007 Share Posted July 22, 2007 Alright, I searched my little heart out and couldn't find a good explanation for my simple mind. I am working with a 72, bought new complete tie rod assemblies from Courtesy Nissan...but I don't understand how you are supposed to remove the inner tie rod assembly from the steering rack. I see the large thin nut with 4 flat faces on it between the inner assembly and the steering rack, I gave that a solid pull and nothing...I didn't want to press my luck and go at if I was wrong. Also I see the inner tie rod has that piece welded on with 4 pits, I put a flat head in there and gave it a few good pounds with a 4lb sledge and about nothing. So was I at least close? P.S. carfiche sucks, been checking it as often as I can since 5pm and I still haven't seen the 280z manual available once. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zgeezer Posted July 23, 2007 Share Posted July 23, 2007 Well, for what its worth, I got pretty ignorant with a hacksaw, a chisel and a BFH when I removed the inner tie rods from a S130 ps rack. Look at the top two inner tie rods in this photo. What I thought was a thin nut between the inner tie rod and the steering rack proper was not a nut. It was a form of lock washer that was peened over onto a narrow flat on the inner tie rod. Look at the top piece. The long rectangular flat held the peened over washer and the barely visible flat on the top of the wider piece was where I applied a 12' crescent wrench. You can see a small flat machined in It is not a jam nut and it won't turn. While, you have an S30, I'll bet Datsun secured the inner tie rods on your manual with a similar lock washer. Take another look at that "large thin nut with four faces on it". I hope this makes sense for you. g Alright, I searched my little heart out and couldn't find a good explanation for my simple mind. I am working with a 72, bought new complete tie rod assemblies from Courtesy Nissan...but I don't understand how you are supposed to remove the inner tie rod assembly from the steering rack. I see the large thin nut with 4 flat faces on it between the inner assembly and the steering rack, I gave that a solid pull and nothing...I didn't want to press my luck and go at if I was wrong. Also I see the inner tie rod has that piece welded on with 4 pits, I put a flat head in there and gave it a few good pounds with a 4lb sledge and about nothing. So was I at least close? P.S. carfiche sucks, been checking it as often as I can since 5pm and I still haven't seen the 280z manual available once. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
toki Posted July 24, 2007 Author Share Posted July 24, 2007 No one else has ever removed in the inner tie and can tell me what actually needs to be done? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike kZ Posted July 25, 2007 Share Posted July 25, 2007 I have, but it's been so long. Mine is also a '72. I remember there was a sleave pushed up to the thin nut that I had to slide over. I used a screwdriver between the nut and the sleave and pushed it over. Once it was out of the way, I loosened the nut, then unscrewed the inner tie rod. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
toki Posted July 25, 2007 Author Share Posted July 25, 2007 If this helps refresh your memory? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zgeezer Posted July 26, 2007 Share Posted July 26, 2007 If this helps refresh your memory? When I get back home, I'll look at my 1970 Datsun service manual and see if it sheds any light. If I haven't posted something by Monday, send me a PM. g Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMortensen Posted July 26, 2007 Share Posted July 26, 2007 Looks like a pretty simple double nut setup there. Just spin the inner nut off of the tie roe end by putting a punch in one of the holes and hitting it with a hammer. Once you break it loose the tie rod should come off. I'd imagine that the inner is tightened down until the threads bottom on the rack, and then the 2nd nut is tightened down to prevent the tie rod from backing off. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMortensen Posted July 26, 2007 Share Posted July 26, 2007 I just checked the FSM for you since I had better luck with carfiche.com. It says "Check the inner for play and replace if necessary" which isn't too helpful, but when it describes installing the inner it says: Screw inner socket portion (inner tie rod) until the ball seat reaches the rack end, and then tighten lock nut securely. Tightening torque is 58-72 ft/lbs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
toki Posted July 26, 2007 Author Share Posted July 26, 2007 You see that the inner nut with the slits is in fact welded on? I out a flat head in there and gave it some blows with a 4lb sledge, the steering gear shaft (I don't know if that is the right term) was just flexing and likely absorbing the force. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blueovalz Posted July 26, 2007 Share Posted July 26, 2007 I've taken apart several racks, so I am confused which had what, but have you verified that there is no pin staked through the nut and rack bar which prevents it from being unscrewed? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike kZ Posted July 26, 2007 Share Posted July 26, 2007 Don't worry about that part with the slits, it's part of the inner tie rod. You need to loosen that nut to the right of it, in your pic. Once loosened you can unscrew the whole inner tie rod from the rack. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
het976 Posted July 26, 2007 Share Posted July 26, 2007 I just did mine on my '71. Yours looks a little different, but here is a picture of it "unscrewed". Maybe this helps. From left to right: Round part is fixed to the rack and does not turn The thin nut in the center is a jam nut. The large domed part is the inner tie rod and it threds on to the rack. If you need other pictures, let me know. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMortensen Posted July 26, 2007 Share Posted July 26, 2007 You see that the inner nut with the slits is in fact welded on? No, I didn't see that. I thought that was grease. If that is really welded together, you're probably going to have to get another rack, because even if you were able to turn the inner tie rod off of the threads, you'd really screw up the threads. Maybe if the weld isn't too deep you can grind through it, but it looks like a good weld to me, now that I realize it's a weld... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
toki Posted July 26, 2007 Author Share Posted July 26, 2007 The new tie rod from courtesy has the same little thin nut with the same slits welded on as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zgeezer Posted July 29, 2007 Share Posted July 29, 2007 The new tie rod from courtesy has the same little thin nut with the same slits welded on as well. TOKI Can you post a photograph of all your parts from Courtesy. I don't recall any parts being welded, when I disassembled my early rack several years ago. You may not believe it, but these things are designed to be removed. My local JY has one late 71Z and a couple of 280's that still have the rack and pinion if you decide to opt for another r&p. g Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
toki Posted July 30, 2007 Author Share Posted July 30, 2007 I will get pictures tonight when I go home. I have been slacking and haven't been back out to the car since I made this thread. It makes since the nut with the 4 flat spots is the lock nut to me, I think it just need to lock the rack to either side to retract the gear/shaft/whatever when I go to break it so it doesn't flex like it was starting to last time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ab0z Posted August 9, 2007 Share Posted August 9, 2007 Did this issue get resolved? I am interested in the outcome, as I will be doing tie rods soon. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
toki Posted September 8, 2007 Author Share Posted September 8, 2007 I have put unnecessary amount of torque on this: Soaked it in penetrating oil. I am on it with a 10" adjustable wrench...I have decent leverage but it's just not budging. Here is the new piece from courtesy. Shown is the drivers side, the other picture of the one of the car is the passenger side. The weld on this one are dirty, but they are both the same in the fact they have 2 tacs securing the slotted nut. Unless someone has a better idea I am going to just pull the rack out and jig it up somewhere and get enough leverage to either rip the shaft out the side of the housing or break that nut loose. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike kZ Posted September 10, 2007 Share Posted September 10, 2007 Did you try turning that nut with the red arrow the other way. The stock tie rod on the passenger side is reverse thread. The new Coutesy peices are both right hand thread, because Nisson no longer makes the reverse thread ones. P.S. Do not touch the spot welded "slotted nut" as you call it. It's part of the inner tie rod Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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