JustinOlson Posted August 9, 2007 Share Posted August 9, 2007 I found these pictures of a very cool S2000 with a 2JZ being swapped in. Since I've recently acquired a welder and a full shop area to tear into my car, I'm going to go a bit nuts with it. I'm thinking of setting the 2JZ back behind the steering rack in my 280z. Regards, Justin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scottie-GNZ Posted August 9, 2007 Share Posted August 9, 2007 That is extreme. I really do not believe that is necessary with an S30 unless you are looking for extreme rear weight bias. Just look at this picture of Z-Gad's car. Despite everything you read on the net about how heavy this engine, when stripped of all the crap and left with just the alt and replacing that horrendous and heavy TT setup, there is little weight difference compared to an L28et. A simple relo of the battery to the rear makes a big difference. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JustinOlson Posted August 9, 2007 Author Share Posted August 9, 2007 I do realize that its not really necassary. I just think it would be pretty cool and set my car apart from most S30's. Justin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
olie05 Posted August 10, 2007 Share Posted August 10, 2007 I don't think it would be very practical to have the engine that far back... Sure you could change your steering rack without a problem, or even service it without having to remove it, but what if you ever have to take your valve covers off? It makes simple things like removing a spark plug a difficult task. On example, minivans. The back cylinders on a v6 caravan requires removal of the intake manifold to change the spark plugs. That is just ridiculous. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
v8dats Posted August 10, 2007 Share Posted August 10, 2007 when i test fitted my 2jz it was right at the steering rack. once i remove the stock tranny mount brackets i would be able to move it back about 1 to 1.5 inches. and i think that the shifter location would be perfect. any further back and the shifter would be too far back. here is a pic of the mock up with the front sump pan here is one with the rear sump. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1jzmoe Posted August 17, 2007 Share Posted August 17, 2007 I like it, once he can get to the last spark plug i don't see any major problems with setup except for where he is gonna put the water pump as the turbo and manifold looks like it is in the way, and i cant tell if he forgot about the trottle body. It is unique and i give him kudos for all the work he has done and all the nice fabrication he has there, anyways good job and keep up the good work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JustinOlson Posted October 12, 2007 Author Share Posted October 12, 2007 Here are some more pictures: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pop N Wood Posted October 12, 2007 Share Posted October 12, 2007 An LS motor can easily be positioned behind the rack. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnc Posted October 12, 2007 Share Posted October 12, 2007 What I did for Larrow (oatmilk) is about as far back as you can go with a 2JZ before cutting the firewall. Its 1/2" from the firewall and 1/2" above the rack. I could have cut those numbers down even more but he wanted to run the OEM engine mounts. It can go back another 2.5 inches and still have the shifter in the hole in the trans tunnel (R154 transmission) but that means cutting the firewall and the inside bottom corners of the floor pan/tunnel. And then there's the whole passenger side exhaust issue. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RUSSJZ-ZED Posted October 13, 2007 Share Posted October 13, 2007 Why go to all this trouble just to be different? I have weighed mine , with 10 litres(2 1/2 gal) of fuel, no spare and no-one in it, the balance is 53% front 47% rear, with a driver, a tank full, a spare and a box of beer in the back, would probably reverse the figures.the balance is near perfect. No one is going to see it when the hood is closed,The 1J/2J has to be one of the easiest engine transplants into a Z, no body mods, simple, the village idiot could do it,it fits like a glove- that is a glove on a hand, what you are contemplating is a glove on a foot. That Honda looks a nightmare! and, there are probably V6's out there that would have fitted better without the crazy mods , and make big power. Way back, I came across a picture of an MGB(roadster)in Japan with a 2J in it, did not look to have had mods to body to fit it,(MGC 6 cylinder was a huge boat anchor, so it probably went in easy) Text was in Japanese, so a bit short on detail, the guy standing next to it looked happy! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DrEaM Posted October 13, 2007 Share Posted October 13, 2007 so would you say that this swap is easier done than an rb25 swap? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DrEaM Posted October 13, 2007 Share Posted October 13, 2007 oh yeah a guy that i work with happens to have this EXACT engine swap and is making about 430whp with hit new motor but without any of the extra reinforcements i think.. but he ended up selling his old supercharged motor and spent $6000 on the whole swap.. he never gets traction though and when i asked him about the chasis reinforcements he told me it was reinforced from the factory because it is a convertible and thats why they are so heavy... "sure" they are reinforced, for safety but not for 2jz power on a car that has little torque to begin with from the factory.. anyways i don't think it'll last long Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RUSSJZ-ZED Posted October 14, 2007 Share Posted October 14, 2007 so would you say that this swap is easier done than an rb25 swap? For starters you guys drive on the wrong side of the road:mrgreen: so the J series turbo/exhaust is on the opposite side of the engine to your steering shaft( even doing a RHD installation, it all fits without drama. The 2JZ is a much better engine than an RB 26/25/20/30(standard,the 1JZ makes more power than an RB26-and the torque is at the end where you want it) Only body mod is remove the gearbox mount"ears"-5 min with a grinder. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnc Posted October 14, 2007 Share Posted October 14, 2007 Why go to all this trouble just to be different? Remember what site you're on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RUSSJZ-ZED Posted October 14, 2007 Share Posted October 14, 2007 Remember what site you're on. Point taken. I'll try it another way, IMHO, A truckload of work, for no real gains.(except....won't be needing the heater:) ) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AKWIKZ Posted October 14, 2007 Share Posted October 14, 2007 For starters you guys drive on the wrong side of the road:mrgreen: so the J series turbo/exhaust is on the opposite side of the engine to your steering shaft( even doing a RHD installation, it all fits without drama.The 2JZ is a much better engine than an RB 26/25/20/30(standard,the 1JZ makes more power than an RB26-and the torque is at the end where you want it) Only body mod is remove the gearbox mount"ears"-5 min with a grinder. Sorry, gotta laugh from that one. The 2JZ is a great motor but is no where near a better motor than the RB26 stock for stock, or in any trim for that matter. I have been hearing this for a while and have yet to see any real proof of it. Stock for stock they are nearly identical. Nissan, having to sell the motor in Japan, rated it at 287hp. The 2JZ being sold here in the U.S. was able to be more acurately rated at 320hp. Everyone knows this is what a stock RB26 puts out as well. If you were to get nit-picky, the RB26 has vastly superior throttle response and a larger power band. As for mods, there are far more 1000hp + Skylines than Supras. And lets be honest, any motor putting out over 600hp will need internal mods if it is expected to live long. Brian Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
e_racer1999 Posted October 14, 2007 Share Posted October 14, 2007 you can make both engines perform similarly, and though i agree that moving the jay-z motor back is a little much for not a lot, the tubing in that s2k is beautiful <3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RUSSJZ-ZED Posted October 14, 2007 Share Posted October 14, 2007 Unmolested output RB26DETT 206KW @6800rpm 353Nm@4800rpm(R33) 392Nm@4400rpm(R34) 1JZ-GTE (TT) 206KW @6200rpm 362Nm@4800rpm 1JZ GTE-Vvt(single T) 206KW @6200rpm 378Nm@2400rpm 2JZ GTE(sequentialTT) 206KW@5600rpm 430Nm@3600rpm 2JZGTE Vvti(seq TT) 206Kw@5600rpm 451Nm@3600rpm:burnout: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gareth Posted October 15, 2007 Share Posted October 15, 2007 Sorry to go off topic, but who cares about the stock power output? Frankly speaking, borht 2JZ and RB26 are great engines, and the only true difference between them are the markets they were sold on, which equates to better or worse parts availability. Another problem could be the left/right exhaust routing, so it depends where you live. RB26's natural home is Japan, Australia, New Zealand, Great Britain etc., while the 2JZ is popular everywhere else - this is where we should thank Toyota for making the MkIV Supra available worldwide... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JustinOlson Posted January 29, 2010 Author Share Posted January 29, 2010 I'm going back and forth with this idea now that I'm getting close to choosing the engines final position. Besides the work, what are the negative consequences to moving the bell housing back 2" ahead of the front of the door. I figure I will be able to get enough room for a pedal assembly for the brakes. I will be able to sort out the shifter position on my T10 based transmission since it has a linkage based shifter. The only trouble I have right now is figuring out the intake manifold clearance to the strut tower. I'm sure I can weld in a 45 degree bend in prethrottle to get me the clearance I need. Am I going to kill the balance of the car moving the engine back? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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