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How to work with AN Line?


rudypoochris

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I am currently trying to reroute the oil to the frame rail from the engine. The lines that came with the kit were too long and nasty looking. I have always wondered how to work with AN SS line but I can never find an article or a place where they explain it. The guys at summit linked me to this: http://www.holley.com/data/TechService/Technical/Swivel-Seal%20Hose%20Assembly.pdf

 

Is that the right article? If so, any advice on that procedure (for instance cutters vs hacksaw, anything blatently wrong with it). Is AN good for atleast 250 degrees and 250 psi?

 

Also, what components would I need for just these two hoses. I see there are AN O-rings and other miscellaneous stuff offered and I just want to make sure I am not missing something. So far it looks like:

 

-4 Hose ends 1/2" NPT on onside -8AN on the other

-Length of -8AN hose

 

That is all, correct?

 

Thanks guys. :)

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Are you using AN hard line or AN SS teflon hose? AN hose will cost more but will be easier to route. If you are passing through firewall or frame rail you will need to get fittings to do so.

 

The AN classification just determines the size of the line and the fittings you will use -- temperature and pressure ratings are determined by the material used.

 

There are no o-rings in AN fittings, but there is such a thing as ORB fittings (O-Ring Boss) that use the same thread as AN but seal with an o-ring rather than with a flare.

 

It would help if you give us some more information of exactly what devices you are trying to connect and what their current inlet/outlets are, where you are going to route the line/hose, etc. -- that will determine what fittings to use.

 

 

 

- Greg -

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I've had good luck cutting braided hose by wrapping tightly with electrical tape before cutting it but the hose clamp sounds like an interesting idea. I've used both a fine tooth hacksaw and with a cutoff wheel. I found the cutoff wheel to work better.

 

Nigel

'73 240ZT

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I used a cut off wheel for the longest time until I just broke down and bought a "Cable Cutter" from home depot. It is infinitely better than using the cut-off wheel...less noise and less dust, just tape the line and cut. When you tape use something thats braided or reinforced in some way, packing tape, duct tape, etc. If you use something soft or stretchy the ends of the hose will fray anyway.

 

if your going to be doing lots of work with AN fittings buy a set of AN wrenches, they will keep your fittings from being marked and knicked up by using a regular steel wrenches, and they help prevent over-tightening by being really uncomfortable in the hands.

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I gave up on the stainless hose. It looks pretty, but it doesn't last any longer than regular hose, plus it scratches up any aluminum it slides over. I like the ultra light or the socketless aeroquip.

 

Oh yeah and no more pin pricks from the stupid frayed ends.

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Okay. Quick clarification... does one remove or keep the tape on before screwing it into the fitting?

 

I plan on using 2 90 degree swivel fit 1/2" NPT to AN hose connections, then 2 straight swivels to 1/2" NPT. Do the standard AN hose connectors work with normal hose and SS or one of the other? Thanks. :)

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you will want to remove the tape right before your push the hose into the fitting.

 

The fittings are mostly designed to take SS hose unless otherwise noted, The OD of the hose is what helps creat a good seal, the thinner rubber hose will not be compressed into a good seal by the outer sleeve. That said, the do make JIC fittings in brass that accept regular fuel and heater type hose.

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If you slide the nut over the line first. Then tape and cut the line. Remove the tape, insert fitting slide the nut back up and tighten. That way you don't disturb the braided stianless after you cut it by feeding it through the nut. Made it easier for me anyway.

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