stony Posted January 4, 2003 Author Share Posted January 4, 2003 Brad exactly like yours except with -8an fitting Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stony Posted January 4, 2003 Author Share Posted January 4, 2003 wow thats big sorry bout that Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZROSSA Posted January 4, 2003 Share Posted January 4, 2003 Thats what i had in mind. How far are you going to go with this? Are you going to run door bars as well. I think for street I would not do the X- bar. One diaganal should be enough here. You do mostly straight line stuff, dont you? One more mod that should really stifen (sp?) things up. Run a door bar from the floor of the front hoop to the rear strut tower that pickes up the main hoop on the way. This kind of bar wont make it to hard to get in and out but reallt ties the structure together. Over kill for the road though. Douglas Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stony Posted January 5, 2003 Author Share Posted January 5, 2003 here are the latest pics Im about 50% done still have to do the X bar in the rear the diagonal in the main hoop and the door bars. Anybody ever buy a tubing notcher like on ebay or similar? just curious how they work. Sure would make this thing easier if it worked good ;> Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mikelly Posted January 11, 2003 Share Posted January 11, 2003 Sorry Stony...I missed this post... I have a tubing notcher and they work really well... Just get a good 1/2 inch drill and plan to buy lots of bi-metal hole saws! Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pop N Wood Posted January 11, 2003 Share Posted January 11, 2003 For the small number of joints, couldn't you do the same thing as a tubing notcher with a grinder? I saw the notchers on Harbor Freight and the first thing I thought of is how quickly they must go through hole saw blades. Also a diagonal in the main hoop is an excellent idea, but I would rethink the X bars between the main hoop and the rear strut towers. Katman sent me a pretty good magazine article on Z car cages. I'll try emailing you a copy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stony Posted January 11, 2003 Author Share Posted January 11, 2003 well im thinking its alot easier to figure the angle and make one cut versus about 30 minutes per joint with a grinder Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stony Posted March 31, 2003 Author Share Posted March 31, 2003 well i have made a little progress since the last pics. i came to the conclusion that a stright back bar was not an option in my case. It would be putting my chest to close to the wheel. I ran tw bars from the main hoop where the back bar would normally tie in and ran them both diagonally back to the center of the rear strut bar. i will add some pics as soon as my camera battery charges ;> Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim240z Posted March 31, 2003 Share Posted March 31, 2003 well i have made a little progress since the last pics. i came to the conclusion that a stright back bar was not an option in my case. It would be putting my chest to close to the wheel. I ran tw bars from the main hoop where the back bar would normally tie in and ran them both diagonally back to the center of the rear strut bar. i will add some pics as soon as my camera battery charges ;> Stony, I had the same problem with the cross bar in the main hoop. I spaced it back by 3 inches or so. A couple of pics on my site. It's a PITA to do, but doesn't take too long. Tim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stony Posted March 31, 2003 Author Share Posted March 31, 2003 well i have had enough for today. next step is the door bars and finishing all the welding up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stony Posted April 3, 2003 Author Share Posted April 3, 2003 some more pics of the cage and fuel cell prep. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stony Posted April 3, 2003 Author Share Posted April 3, 2003 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mas28O Posted April 14, 2003 Share Posted April 14, 2003 what roll cage kit is this? I am looking for a 6pt roll cage. Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mas28O Posted April 14, 2003 Share Posted April 14, 2003 what roll cage kit is this? I am looking for a 6pt roll cage. Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stony Posted April 14, 2003 Author Share Posted April 14, 2003 chassisworks. 10 point cage. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SHANE Posted April 14, 2003 Share Posted April 14, 2003 is that cage going to be NHRA legal? from what i remember the bars coming off the hoop to the back had to mount to the floor not the strut tower. there was a certain angle they had to be. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stony Posted April 15, 2003 Author Share Posted April 15, 2003 not sure if so well i guess i wont be reacing in any nhra events ;< Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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