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I Love The Fuel Injection Bible


Mr.INSANE

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(read: junkyard, on a lucky day)

 

 

Heehee... not around here my friend.

 

It's a very sad day if there aren't any EFI L28 cars in my local junkyard. Vehicles don't last there for very long, so stock changes constantly, and rarely are EFI sensors pulled from L series cars there. But there's usually at least 2-3 Z cars with L28 motors there.

 

Finding a 240Z there is a whole different story...

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Stupid question... but fuel pump turning on? You really need to find someone with a pressure guage and check that fuel pressure... Too low fuel pressure is extremely common in these cars due to bad fuel pressure regulators.

 

Yes,Fuel pump is buzzing and gas is getting to the injectors

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they work but dont click? doesnt that meen they dont work? is there power going to the injectors?

 

They click when a 9V is powered to them

 

there not getting power by the Ecu, Could it be the resistor or something I'm honestly stumped and the Fuel Injection bible doesn't say that much about this sort of problem

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sounds like a bad dropping resistor maybe?

 

You need what is called a "noid light" by some; it is a light that you plug in in place of the injector to show that your injectors are getting signaled to fire. It sounds like, for some reason, they aren't.

 

The ECU "decides" when to fire the injectors.. thats most of its job. Either your ECU isn't being decisive enough (har har, we will ignore this possibility for now because you've checked all the input sensors) OR, the problem is between the ECU and the injectors.

 

That points directly to the dropping resistor, and unless I am forgetting something (possible) the dropping resistor is the only thing between the ECU and the injectors, other than wire.

 

Its been about two years since i actually cracked my bible... but it SHOULD tell you how to check the dropping resistor. IIRC, its bolted to the inner fenderwell, behind the driver's side wheel. The brake and clutch masters may be somewhat in your way, but you should be able to access it to remove without moving them.

 

Check the resistor before you replace the fusible link with a solid piece of wire.. Please. Click on the link in my sig that says "Fusible Links Blow!" for a lengthy story on exactly why.... short version, when fusible links SHOULD blow, and they DONT......... things can get REAL bad REAL quick.

 

Good luck.

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sounds like a bad dropping resistor maybe?

 

You need what is called a "noid light" by some; it is a light that you plug in in place of the injector to show that your injectors are getting signaled to fire. It sounds like, for some reason, they aren't.

 

That points directly to the dropping resistor, and unless I am forgetting something (possible) the dropping resistor is the only thing between the ECU and the injectors, other than wire.

 

Check the resistor before you replace the fusible link with a solid piece of wire.. Please. Click on the link in my sig that says "Fusible Links Blow!" for a lengthy story on exactly why.... short version, when fusible links SHOULD blow, and they DONT......... things can get REAL bad REAL quick.

 

Good luck.

 

I'll test the injectors connector's with my multimeter, The dropping resistor drops the voltage for the injector's so its usable I've never heard of them breaking but theres a chance.

 

I'm aware of the fusible's everything seems pretty clean to me though I doubt something will catch on fire.

 

One the fusible's where bad for the Ignition relay, It was shorting out and such. I replaced it and turned it over, It didn't fire up but it has a hard time during cold starts anyways. Ill try again tomorrow

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My car runs now. HA! Beat ya...

 

Could it be a bad connection at the ECU? Just a thought...

 

I was thinking that but I doubt it since it has run before. I've heard of people using Z31 or ZX harness connectors instead I may get one from my Pick N Pull

 

Oh yeah and you bastard!!

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Alright so after cleaning all the contact's for everything, and replacing that fusible the motor has yet to start. The injectors show a slight blip on my multimeter but they still don't seem to work.

 

I keep forgetting my tachometer is not working. Could this be related to my problems somehow?

 

I also poured in more gas thinking it didn't have enough.

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I did two more test's.

 

Control Unit Power Test Pg. 62 In Efi Bible Battery voltage did not show until turned to start position.

This point's to the Power Relay

 

#1 Injector Circuit test Battery voltage did not show until turned to start position.

 

So this leaves me to believe its either wiring or the power relay

 

Where is the power relay located at so I can test it?

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