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Tec2/Tec3/Tec3R Starting


jgkurz

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I know there are only a handful of people with the Tec3's and more Tec2's but I wanted to ask about any starting issues. I have a first generation Tec3 and have always struggled with getting the starting parameters set perfectly. I define perfect as being able to start the car at any temperature without throttle input. Any OEM EFI should do this. Even the early L-Jetronic from on the first generation 280-Z will. Supposedly the Tec3R has some starting enhancements that the Tec2/3 doesn't have. I'm also still using the old air-regulator from the original fuel injection and not an intelligent Idle Air Controller.

 

Soooo, how well does your Electromotive EFI start the engine? Do you have to give it throttle? Does it start better cold than hot or visa/versa? Does it fire the engine right away then quits? Does it take several cranks then starts fine...?

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Tech3R with all the "bells" ............We did not program temperature based (warm-up) enrichments when tuning the new system. Engine normally starts easily but will not idle properly without adding a little throttle for a few minutes. Hot starting usually has no issues and always idles good after warm-up.

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I've done quite well making my cars (L28 w/TEC2 and 2JZw/TEC3-NOT -R) start quickly when cold. I find out what AFR the motor likes to start/idle at the various warmup temps (this is the time consuming part - lots of experimentation) and play with the warmup enrichments/timing (coolant-based timung can help here) to make it start without throttle and idle/run smoothly until warm.

 

I really don't have a procedure to impart - I just keep tweeking until it's good. Kind of sucks that your tweeking sessions are shortened by the engine warming up - If you don't get good results quickly you have to wait until it cools down again.

 

John, If you still have the air regulator I would think that that would help in optimising the start fuel for a quick engine start. But then an IAC would help here considerably - I don't have them on either car but they are in the plans for the future. The Buick motor will have one from the start.

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  • 1 month later...

This doesn't really fall into the same problem however, These are the problems I experience with my TEC2.

 

When I park the car for winter, I will go to fire it up again a few months later with fresh gas and the car will not start. Will not even TRY to start. It did this to me last spring and I messed with everything I could think of and couldn't get it going. Then one day I tried it again, and it fired right up with out missing a beat. I have no idea why. Currently it is doing the same thing now that it is spring time and time to pull it out again. It will probably just decide to spring into life again. Meh...

 

The other problem I have with my TEC2 is that I will be driving down the road, and the whole computer will just shut off. Car shuts down and I have to coast out of the way and to a stop. I wait about 2 minutes and it fires right back up, no problems.

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My Tec2 used to do that at times also. I would get out, pull both green connectors out, then push them back in and it would start.

 

I also had a prob one time with the MAT sensor pin sticking out of the TEC unit itself. It was corroded inside the Tec and once I sent it in and got it back, no more problems...

 

I ended up just putting in a Tec3r a couple months ago.

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I use a Tec3R with an AIC solenoid. I turn the car on, wait for the fuel pump to run for a second or two then turn the key and it starts. The AIC opens a programmed amount for startup and then closes a little to keep the idle at 1200 until warm. Works great. The better part of the AIC is after blipping the throttle. It acts like a dashpot to keep the car from dropping the RPMs too fast and stalling with a very light flywheel. Electromotive makes a billet remote block for mounting an AIC valve really easy.

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My Tec2 used to do that at times also. I would get out, pull both green connectors out, then push them back in and it would start.

 

I also had a prob one time with the MAT sensor pin sticking out of the TEC unit itself. It was corroded inside the Tec and once I sent it in and got it back, no more problems...

 

I ended up just putting in a Tec3r a couple months ago.

 

Yeah, I need to jump to a tec3r or just a tec GT. I dont need all the bells and whistles of the R. The GT will do sequential if I hook up a wheel on the cam so... That and it isn't as much as the R, but it still has more GPO's than the TEC2.

 

Its funny but with my TEC2 when it dies like that while I am driving, I dont even have to unplug anything. I just sit there in my seat with my harness on and wait a couple minutes, try again and I am good to go. It only does it like every other week of daily driving though.

 

While we are talking about TEC2's... Have any of you guys gotten a wide band sensor to work with one? I have an LM-1 which can send the narrow band signal that the TEC2, but that doesn't do much for tuning. I have heard of converters and a whole mess of crap to simulate the 5 volt signal but is it really worth it to even mess with? Or just stick with the narrow band for now and wait till I grab a TEC GT to do wide band? I can obviously still log with the LM-1 and go back in and tune but... Thats not helping my TEC2 stay in the 11:1 range under heavy boost.

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  • 2 months later...

I gotta say, the TEC2 we had on the Bonneville car was a flawless starter. Even at 34 degrees in November with the big cam the thing would start on fast idle and warm up just fine. But it didn't like to get quick throttle inputs off idle till it was warmer...

We would start it in the morning for the warm up with a twist of the key, while others were spraying fuel in the birdcatcher and jumping around because of flashback. Ahhh, the smell of Methanol and Nitromethane in the morning...

 

Sometimes I wish we'd retained the TEC...

I don't know if I still have the maps from that, but I could check. I was very happy with the way it cold-started.

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I use a Tec3R with an AIC solenoid. I turn the car on, wait for the fuel pump to run for a second or two then turn the key and it starts. The AIC opens a programmed amount for startup and then closes a little to keep the idle at 1200 until warm. Works great. The better part of the AIC is after blipping the throttle. It acts like a dashpot to keep the car from dropping the RPMs too fast and stalling with a very light flywheel. Electromotive makes a billet remote block for mounting an AIC valve really easy.

 

Thats what I need to do.... hook up a IAC/AIC (which ever its called) so I can just hit the starter and it start right up.

 

Mine will start right up and idle, after its warmed up a bit, but not until then w/o help from the pedal...

 

I need a device where I can add one to home a made plenum though. Does the one sold by Electromotive allow this?

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The one Electromotive sells is remote mount. It takes a GM style IAC motor and has 2 hose barbs on it. These can be plumbed into the plenum and before the TB. Check out the Electromotive catalogue http://electromotive-inc.com/pdf_files/Catalog.pdf page 13. I have an extra one of the Chevy style adapters. Would you be interested in it? I don’t remember what I paid for it, but I will make you a good deal.

 

Jeff

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Hmm, I need an IAC then. I have Tec3r on a V12 and it initially won't idle for a minute or so without me giving it a little gas.

The two plenums have separate throttle bodies though, and I'm switching it to a ITB setup to further complicate things, why do I suspect I'll just have to live with the inability to idle?

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Regarding IAC control, I was talking to Ron Tyler about setting up an IAC for my Wolf'd L28ET. Ron recommended that I look into the Ford IAC controllers as they are PWM controlled.

 

Is the GM IAC motor PWM controlled? Wolf has a dedicated PWM channel, but it requires a PWM controlled motor.

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