TrumpetRhapsody Posted January 10, 2008 Share Posted January 10, 2008 Ok I've been debating back and forth whether to post this or not, and have finally decided just to post it here and keep this discussion out of the way. Mods, feel free to move it if you feel it worthy I guess. I've been looking for a Z for some time now, and I think I've finally found "the one". I'm going to go check it out and (likely) pick it up this Saturday, but want to be FULLY prepared for what I see. Thanks to dsommer, I know specifically what to look for in the ways of rust on these cars, so I should be good there. I'd like you guys to look over the pics I post, and tell me some stuff I need to consider about this car specifically that I might not have noticed. I'll caption each pic to detail what I HAVE noticed. It looks good overall. The original color is blue, which is cool b/c that's the end result I wanted, so maybe I can go back to the original color. Looks pretty straight. Bumpers already off for me Looks good. Shows more of the original blue. All the hardware has been removed, but will come with the car. Supposedly that's the only rust-through on the car. Looks like something I could handle eventually with some practice on our MIG welder. I figure that's about average. The dash needs a cap, big whoop. The door panels look pretty darn good. New seats are on the list, no big deal. I specifically asked about hatch rust problems. Doesn't look too bad, a little sanding maybe. Not bad, just a little surface rust. It'll buff out, lol. Just some shots of the parts that were removed and stored inside. Tail lights don't look too bad. And now the finale, and source of most concern. I can tell it will need hoses and belts right off the bat, oh well. The spedo says 97861, so I can assume 197861 (hopefully not 297861). The PO has never had it running, and I assume he's had it 5+ years. The PO before him intended a v8 swap but never got to it. Do you think it's realistic to try to get the engine running without a tear-down and overhaul? Get the belts and hoses, drain purge and replace all fluids, drop the gas tank and clean it and purge the lines, clean the injectors, check the plugs, cross my fingers that the electrical system is ok. What do yall think? I don't know how these engines take to not running for years, then being expected to run again. I've been searching my butt off trying to learn about every aspect of Z cars. I'm kinda asking for generic observations/comments or uncommon things yall might notice. TIA Guys! -TR Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Evan Purple240zt Posted January 10, 2008 Share Posted January 10, 2008 The real question I have is asking price.... Also, I suspect that yellow paint is hiding more rust. I had a nice red 240 at one point that looked great, but was a basketcase. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TrumpetRhapsody Posted January 10, 2008 Author Share Posted January 10, 2008 Yeah I'm going to give it a good prodding and poking to make sure more rust isn't hiding anywhere. I don't know how I feel about listing the asking price, just in case the owner frequents forums (doubt it, but I figure I should be careful). EDIT: Ok well I guess it doesn't hurt to list what he's asking, as long as I don't comment on my oppinon of it (I'll let yall do that). He's asking $1500. Supposedly it comes with a newish 3 plate Chevy radiator intended for the v8 swap, and the original seats (in pretty poor condition). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nizm0Zed Posted January 10, 2008 Share Posted January 10, 2008 take one of those weak floppy fridge magnets, like what plumbers and salesmen give to you, they dont stick to rust too well, or bondo. good for checking. but yea, do it, save another one form oblivion. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JSM Posted January 10, 2008 Share Posted January 10, 2008 Price? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TrumpetRhapsody Posted January 10, 2008 Author Share Posted January 10, 2008 Price? Posted two posts up. One thing I will say for you Cali and FL guys is consider my location. Not the most Z-plentiful area. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
S30TRBO Posted January 10, 2008 Share Posted January 10, 2008 That old girl has plenty of life left in her. GO FOR IT!! Save another one from the crusher. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dsommer Posted January 10, 2008 Share Posted January 10, 2008 Be sure to take a little screw driver like I did when we went to Tulsa. Also take a jack (and a 2x8 for the soft ground!) to raise the car up and check the floor pans from the bottom also watch the TC rod mounting areas. I mean it can all be fixed, rails, floor pans but I'd rather not get into quarter panels etc. Just remember if it has too much rust pass on it unless you can talk him WAY down, it would make an excellet parts car. Watch those frame rails in the engine bay too, not only for rust but for accident damage like I showed you. Since the rear tail lights are out that means water's been coming in check the spare tire well closely. Remember 15 is his "asking" price, don't be afraid to walk if it requires too much work. Plus he may call you back. Good luck, wish I could go with you but family prohibits me from going anywhere right now. d Remember Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TrumpetRhapsody Posted January 10, 2008 Author Share Posted January 10, 2008 Thanks for the tips, will do. Anyone for some comments about the run-ability of a long-sitting motor? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
X64v Posted January 10, 2008 Share Posted January 10, 2008 In my experience, it depends on the condition of the rings (assuming the engine was in good working condition the last time it ran). If you get good compression numbers, it should be fine. After my L24 sat for 16 years, the comp. numbers had all fallen. The engine would run, but it really wasn't great. However, a friend's L24 that has sat for as long (but was rebuilt just before it sat) is still putting out 170psi + on all cylinders, and therefore should be fine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TrumpetRhapsody Posted January 10, 2008 Author Share Posted January 10, 2008 I've got a compression set, but I'm concerned about doing a dry test on an engine that has sat that long unlubricated. It would be nice to comp it before I buy it though. What's usually considered acceptable on these cars, 150psi+ IIRC? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SSflyer Posted January 10, 2008 Share Posted January 10, 2008 I think you need to really haggle on the price. $1500 seems pretty high to me, considering what you're going to have to do. I'd offer maybe half of his asking price. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
X64v Posted January 11, 2008 Share Posted January 11, 2008 I've got a compression set, but I'm concerned about doing a dry test on an engine that has sat that long unlubricated. It would be nice to comp it before I buy it though. What's usually considered acceptable on these cars, 150psi+ IIRC? It's a project car. Unless negotiation of the final price depends on condition of the engine ("The engine's fine, gimme $1000" "The engine might need to be rebuilt, I'll give ya $800), then I wouldn't worry about it. Assume the engine needs to be rebuilt; if not, woopie! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TrumpetRhapsody Posted January 11, 2008 Author Share Posted January 11, 2008 It is a project car yes, but I'd like to get it drivable for awhile without a rebuild if possible. If not, oh well I have to rebuild it, but I figure it's at least a factor into the final price. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MJLamberson Posted January 11, 2008 Share Posted January 11, 2008 you know my opinion... its almost complete, Ill bet if you wave a grand under his nose he will take it, and, well, its a Z Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JSM Posted January 11, 2008 Share Posted January 11, 2008 Do you have at least 5-6K in cash? To me being in Orlando, your close enough to check AZ. For time, money, and effort, you should find a pretty decent Z in AZ. I was this close to flying out for one in AZ for 5K. If it hadn't been that I stumbled on this one in FL, I would have flown out. Lets say you get it for 1K, and the motor is bad? Then you have 2K in it. Likely it will need paint. At least 3K for anything decent. Now your at 5K. For that money, you may be able to get one with all Kinds of things done to it already and just drive and enjoy. I don't know your skills, time, or money. If you have money, you don't need time or skills, you've already done that to get the money. If you have no money, then you need lots of time, either to add to it as you go or learn the skills to build / improve it; or both. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TrumpetRhapsody Posted January 11, 2008 Author Share Posted January 11, 2008 This isn't exactly in the scope of what I was looking for with this thread, but I'll bite b/c I can tell you're trying to help : I want a project. I'm in college so money is slow to come in. I want this car to be something I work on and make awesome with my own hands, not something I send off to have worked on or just buy pre-restored. I'm hoping to use it as something to increase my knowledge of car restoration and have fun with. The plan is to (hopefully) get it driving and rustoleum painted for about 2k, then as money becomes available, improve it into a semi DD and autox/track car. As far as the last bit goes, I'm the latter. I don't have tons of money, but I have time and I want to learn the skills to do stuff myself. I know you meant well, thanks for the advice. I've been meticulously deciding what I want out of a Z and have only recently decided on the aforementioned plan. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Evan Purple240zt Posted January 11, 2008 Share Posted January 11, 2008 ^valid point^ I bought my zcar over 10 years ago as a running driving car. The body was pretty good. I paid 1k for it. I would not expect to ressurect a car like that to drive right away. My advice? Spend as much as you can afford and buy the nicest thing you can. You can be assured the fuel tank will be full of rust and funk, and the brakes will be shot. Evan EDIT; If you wanna drive the car while you work on it, buy one thats driveable to start with. It will save you money in the long run. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TrumpetRhapsody Posted January 11, 2008 Author Share Posted January 11, 2008 Addition to above, since Evan snuck one in on me mid-post : I'm not expecting to drive it right away. I figure I'll put a month or two into it to get it streetable, then drive while I work. Thanks for the advice guys. It is appreciated. Keep em coming! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JSM Posted January 11, 2008 Share Posted January 11, 2008 Sorry, didn't mean to tangent your post. Your info you provided gave me enough to vote from now. Buy it if you can get it close to 1K. Engine may or may not be good, but you should still have something to work with unless the PO isnt' telling the truth. Evan Purple240zt makes a very valid point. ------------------------- Sorry, I have to change my mind after looking closer at the pics. I would not undertake such a project. Your going to need a lot more time and money then your planning for to get it going. . . . . . . . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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