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Mike Kelly's Zcar Project


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Clean track wheels????????

 

You're joking, right??????

 

:D:D:D

 

jt

 

:D And clay'd paint :rolleyes: /jk

 

I understand it though. The OE wheels on my M5 are horrible to clean (They are now my winter wheels.) The CCW wheels Jim has would be easier to clean than those, but not much. The second set would be a lot cleaner - and if it was just a track car, I'd be going with the second set Mike showed (the 5 spokes). They might be lighter as well.

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So I was wondering what CCWs would look like on my car, and since I still have Jim's red Zcar at my place...

 

 

For some reason Jim decided he needed to run the same tire size as his C5Z06 had, and bought 17X9 fronts and 18X11 rears. He also had them offset in the rear so wide that I bet there's nearly and inch clearance at the rear strut housing... So if I order a set (and I likely will because these are gorgious on my car) they'll be 18s, probably with black centers.

 

Mike

 

Excellent choice in wheels....I just purchased a set of black (bead blasted) CCW classics and you won't be disappointed! It appears that our cars will look nearly identical in color, stance, and wheels. It appears that I may need to find a new paint color to keep from this happening.

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Pics of my car on Watkins Glen for some "touring" laps...

 

WGFRIT40.jpg

WGFRIT125.jpg

 

Was nice to see the profile of the car with it loaded up under "some" acceleration into corners... I also wanted to see ground clearance, because a couple of the guys who were in the blue car behind me had said it looked as if the exhaust was "on the ground" and it clearly "is not".

 

Mike

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Dave I had zero issues with coolant temps, but had issues with OIL temps, and honestly I'm 99% sure it was due to the whole Autometer gauges/crap sensors issue. I have previously checked the coolant temp sensor several times and had the gauge read 210-220 degrees, yet a probe type pyrometer shows the top of the head at the senser port to read in the 180-185 degrees. I'm pretty sure I'm just gonna replace the oil temp and water temp with mechanical gauges. However, I've started thinking about AIM units, although I don't see a ton of weight from the swap and the cost is steep...

 

So based on what I was seeing from the gauges, I was fine when running hard and in free air. I saw zero temp escalations from the car when behind other vehicles and at normal cruising speeds (50-70mph). I did see hot oil temps lugging at low speeds (15-30mph for lenghty periods of time) and that hot temp issue was due to the problem below...

 

I had significant fuel loading issues at low speeds (15-30mph) due to the secondary fuel pump overdriving the regulator. The temporary answer there is to cut off the carter fuel pump until I'm "moving". It pulls fuel into the surge tank, and from the surge tank the Holley blue pump draws it on thru. "Maybe" it's enough, but I don't want to starve the motor under WOT...

 

According to the Chassis guy, the numbers are at 2.5 negative front and rear, but I agree, after seeing the pics... could use another half to full degree... I'm moving to hoosiers, and wider tires, so we'll see what the wear turns out to be soon...

 

The wing was a cheap part from EBAY. Don't have a make/model. I made the uprights to get the wing into clean air where it can do its job!

 

Mike

Edited by Mikelly
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Mike:

 

Question. Did you put a baffled oil pan on the engine such that during corners there is uninterrupted flow of engine oil? I put an 7-8 quart baffled oil pan on a SBC 383 stroker but am concerned about loss of oil pressure during hard corners. What has been your experience about this when in high G corners?

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I did put a baffled/trap door pan on the car and have not seen any drops in pressure. That said, I also employ an accusump, a canton remote filter, a cooler, and a high pressure Miloden blueprinted high pressure pump. I'll be installing a mechanical oil temp gauge, along with the mechanical gauge I currently use. Hopefully I'll get more accurate monitoring as things go...

 

Mike

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  • 2 weeks later...

So it's been six days since the Porsche was sold and I have decided to get the red Zcar in the shop and start looking at what it's going to take to get it sorted for its owner:

0123eddf.jpg

 

Getting ourselves quite the Zcar garage going now... Sorely miss the black beauty though...

 

a2aeeebd.jpg

aa94b8d6.jpg

 

Mice had made a nest in the car two years ago, and I have no clue what we may find... There is rust also in the engine bay, the rear hatch strut towers, and various other places from where the car has been in and outdoors. Also, it appears that the rear flare on the driver's side had cracked under the paint, and now moisture has frozen and lifted the paint/bodywork over time. There are also other areas where the paint has been nicked or rust has come through. Fortunately it's all surface rust and the timing of getting the car out of the weather is probably very good...

 

This much I already know it needs:

 

Starter replaced

Steering shaft replaced

Conversion from Fuel injection to Carburetor (unless owner wants to convert the system to FAST or other ECU)

Wiring sorted

All fluids flushed

Paint/body work

 

I'll be having a discussion with the owner to see what he wants to spend and is willing to do. My goal is to get the car into a state of operation such that it can move under its own power. Then it'll be up to Jim to decide on the rest.

 

Mike

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Mike,

 

Nice workshop, couple of questions though.

How did you get the red Z in there? I noticed the wheel dollies, but couldn't see a way in.

Also, is that a four post hoist and a two post hoist in the one bay? Is the four post hoist hard to work around when the car is on the two post?

 

I have a two post and find it very good to work around, just trying to work out the benefit to you having a four post aswell.

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Garvice, My fourpost lift has wheels for it to move around. What I do is move the lift forward at an angle and then we can get the car in at about a 45 degree angle thru the opening.

 

Now, on the situation with the twin post and four post lift, I find having both combined works very well. Especially when setting a car up and trying to work out bumpsteer, it's nice to have the twin post to work the platform of the fourpost so you can simulate the travel of the suspension on all four wheels. What's more, I've not had any issues working around each of them to get work done.

 

Mike

Edited by Mikelly
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I've had a little bit of "lull" while I was dealing with the sale of the 996Turbo. I also am awaiting some boots to repair the CV boot I managed to lose on the driver's side rear. Once we've addressed that issue, I'll get it ready for the next track event...

 

There's also an E36M3 being added to the stable this coming weekend, we think...

 

Mike

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Sorry to see the Porch go. I hope you don't miss it too much. (Sniff - I never got a ride!) But now you don't have to be a Porsche snob. Sounds like you're trading that to be a Bimmer Snob. :) Welcome to the club. The E36M3 - great choice! Will that be a track car, street car or a bit of each?

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