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Azc Wilwood Rotor Damage


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I bought a Arizona Z Car's 5-lug wilwood brake kit a while back and just by transporting my car on and off trailers there is significant damage to the front rotors. The stock LCA rubs the rotor hard, especially with the wheels turned. I tried fixing this temporarily by grinding away LCA material until I just about broke through. They rub less, but still rub.

 

Has anyone had a similar issue? The damage is pretty much identical on both front rotors. I thought I'd post up here before contacting Dave at AZC.

 

PICT0085.JPG

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You really need to contact Dave. These are custom parts and likely that nobody else has had the issue or it would have been found in a previous post.

 

And don't drve the car... That'll destroy those rotors. They don't look "bad" yet.

Mike

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My engine doesn't even run yet. Still swapping.. That damage is just from pushing it around.

 

I'll call Dave soon but even with new rotors, the same crap will happen. I've thoroughly checked how everything lines up and there are no errors in assembly. It's like have to buy his LCA's now. I've noticed that the part of the stock LCA that's rubbing doesn't exist on the AZC LCA's. They stop right at the ball joint.

 

frontarm10.jpg

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Mine did that to... I really didn't notice the rubbing at first due to the engine noise, but by the time I had, there was a nice grove wore into the rotor. I really noticed the rubbing sound while turning the wheel left/right while driving, due to the wheel bearing nut not being torqued to spec.

 

I ended up removing the wheels and grinding that lip on the LCA down for clearance.

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From the AZC web site - Front Brake Installation

 

Note: the outboard edge of the lower control arm may need to be trimmed or ground down so it will not rub the inside face of the rotor (see red arrow), you must check for adequate clearance BEFORE DRIVING! and with the car on the ground with the suspension under full load!

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To make the Arizona Z big brake kit work you "MUST" grind the nose of the LCA.

 

What I did on mine was mount the rotor and then turn the wheel from lock to lock and mark how far the rotor comes around the nose of the LCA. Then I broke out the grinder and pretty much ground it away until the rollover lip was gone at the nose of the LCA. Here is a good picture:

 

LCAtrimming.jpg

 

Also pay very good attention to the material on the side of the LCA because if you do not remove enough around the edge it will damage the rotor when you make a hard turn, don't ask me how I know!! Also if you take your car to the track take a bit more off just in case!!

 

I hope this helps you out!

 

HB208ZT

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Yeah, I had them ground down enough to remove that front lip exactly like he shows in the installation instruction CD. That jacked up the rotors like instantly. Then I ground them down as thin as I felt cool with and they still rub. The problem is that I'd have to grind completely through that front LCA face (which is what gives the end of the stock LCA its stiffness) to keep it from grinding.

 

HB280ZT, have you noticed any issues grinding yours that far back? Have you autox'ed or tracked like that?

 

I feel slightly stupid right now for trusting the instruction pictures alone, but still annoyed that I'll have to grind completely through to avoid having to buy a $600 LCA kit, and probably some new rotors.

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I've seen several sets of LCA that have the ends ground off and look very similar to the billet LCAs as shown above. It really doesn't affect them by cutting off the end, as they are attached with the 4 bolts, so you'd have to have loose bolts to ever really have an issue and you'd most like hear or feel that. I'd grind them way back, if I had that issue, but that's just me. :)

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I bought my AZ Zcar Wilwood brake setup back in the late '80s - I was one of the first. Exact same problem.

 

As others have mentioned, I ground material away from the LCA until it no longer interfered. Been running that way ever since with no issues. I do autocross the car, although infrequently.

 

Do the bolts that fasten the rear disc to its hat still interfere with the caliper mounting bracket, too?

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