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How to form clear plastic


OlderThanMe

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We actually made some bowls back in highschool with some 1/4" plastic. Not sure if it was plexi or lexan though but we heated it in a little oven they had then placed it over 4 wooden dowls, then used a wooden top piece and pressed in the center, it made it form a bowl. Was pretty cool. We did some vacumn forming as well.

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  • 4 months later...
He was banned, not able to update. They make clear engine covers for dirtbikes but from what I hear they fog up pretty quick.

 

ahh yeah I didn't see that... It woulda been a nifty idea. I would wonder how long it would take to fog up, and I'd imagine synthetic oil wouldn't fog it as quickly. not that it'd be for anything but show. (it would also mean we'd have to chrome the rocker arms and interior bolts)

 

Phar

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  • 2 weeks later...

I know this is kind of random, but

 

If you want to make tail light lenses and want the refractor shape on the inside. Use a negative mold and vacuum form the plastic and then press in (or make inserts) using plastic from the office florescent light covers.

 

Or better yet, just make inserts from those and just press/glue them into the new lenses.

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That's funny. I missed this thread. My family ran a sign shop in the 70's and early 80's, and among other plastic products, we vacuum formed magnetic signs to stick on cars/trucks. (this is before the large flat sheets of magnets were reasonably avail/cheap.) Infact this was before computerized vinyl cutting machines etc..

 

The business has been shut down, but I still have all my equipment, letters shapes etc, and I do have 2 vacuum formers left, and equipment to make 2 more. Heaters, vacuum pumps etc.

 

I have one machine that I still occasionally use. Its 18x24, and It was used with fairly thin plastics. (the raw material came in rolls) Pretty much anything you could carve in 3d could be made, but was limited to approx 3/4 of an inch thick, as depending on the shape, the material could get pretty thin as it layed down over the mold.

 

We also did plexiglass forming (plexiglass is a brand name for types of Acrylics and various types of styrenes etc.)

 

We cut and shaped pieces with table saws with fine blades, routers and sanders. You need to be careful not to melt or cause stress fractures (from cutting too quickly) We used various heating elements similar to home ovens. The key to making something is all in the mould or jig. obviously straight lines are the easiest bends to make. Nice and slow even heating makes for nice bends that reduce distortions or whitening (clear plastics).

 

I never thought of making stuff for my car though! Hmm I might have to have a look and tap into my fathers extensive experience with this stuff.

 

I may have to start up this hobby business again....I'm not taking any orders anytime soon. hehehe

 

Scott.

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For what its worth......years ago when I was involved with building experimental aircraft, we had to fabricate a bubble type canopy for a half sized WWII German FW190. What we did to heat the lexan (1/4" thick) sheet was to slowly heat it in a bath of peanut oil. The sheet was captivated via a framework and when the lexan sheet was in the right condition, we pulled the lexan sheet/framework out of the peanut oil bath and then over the canopy form. Worked out beautifully and the clearity of the lexan was perfect. Hope this helps to some degree.

 

Tom

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