Lukaniuk Posted March 11, 2008 Author Share Posted March 11, 2008 You must be kidding me. You know when you ask for advice on using JB weld on something because it doesn't seem right, it probably isn't right. This isn't right at all, by any stretch of the imagination. hahaha I guess that pretty much sums it up. I read about some people on other forums having success with it but who knows how it will hold after a year, hot day, large bump etc. I'm leaning towards trying the Dura Fix stuff. I was pretty impressed by that video. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave Posted March 11, 2008 Share Posted March 11, 2008 I'm leaning towards trying the Dura Fix stuff. I was pretty impressed by that video. When I saw the video I viewed it as a infomercial like you see on TV where it is not as it looks. I went ahead and bought more than I really needed so I had enough to practice with. It did work like in the video, I have used it to repair a boat prop and make some aluminum brackets by joining pieces together, fixed a cracked aluminum lawn mower deck, even fixed a intake manifold that had a chunk missing. The manifold was tough at first until I tossed it in my oven and heated it to 250 degrees. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
myplasticegg Posted March 11, 2008 Share Posted March 11, 2008 The 2.2/2.5 turbo dodge guys JB weld BOV flanges all the time. The one on my old minivan was a 1G DSM flange JB welded to some steel and it saw 14psi daily until I sold it... It works, no way the best solution, but it works. Shane Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
proxlamus© Posted March 11, 2008 Share Posted March 11, 2008 I ran a JB welded BOV flange for about a year.. untill I bought a welder... No problems at all. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rudypoochris Posted March 11, 2008 Share Posted March 11, 2008 Sorry to hijack the thread, but I have a similar question regarding JB Weld. Can it be used to make a lasting joint between a steel oil pan and a nut? Basically the oil drain plug needed to be relocated, but the engine is in the car and we do not have access to a welder. If it isn't good for a lasting joint, can the pan be welded on while it is attached to the engine, or is that basically a bomb. Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
myplasticegg Posted March 12, 2008 Share Posted March 12, 2008 Sorry to hijack the thread, but I have a similar question regarding JB Weld. Can it be used to make a lasting joint between a steel oil pan and a nut? Basically the oil drain plug needed to be relocated, but the engine is in the car and we do not have access to a welder. If it isn't good for a lasting joint, can the pan be welded on while it is attached to the engine, or is that basically a bomb. Thanks! You're going to have to drill... so you might as well pull the pan so you're not risking metal shavings doing some fun damage. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rudypoochris Posted March 12, 2008 Share Posted March 12, 2008 You're going to have to drill... so you might as well pull the pan so you're not risking metal shavings doing some fun damage. Hole is already drilled, shavings cleared. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
woldson Posted March 12, 2008 Share Posted March 12, 2008 Have to admit that expoxys and resin are getting inpressive. More and more car manufactures are useing "glue". I will still hesitate due to "man that seems too easy". If a product can chemiclly bond with dissimillar metals, or like, as well as a weld can...........however probley never replace non welded metal. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lukaniuk Posted April 17, 2008 Author Share Posted April 17, 2008 Here's some pics of the completed pipe. BOV Welded with the Durafix stuff and IAT sensor bung with JB Weld. Satisfied with the Durafix stuff. Took about one stick of the stuff and turned out to be very strong. vigorously shook the completed rig by the pipe, pulled and twisted on the flange and it held strong. It was a little messy though. I still have to clean things up a bit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gollum Posted April 25, 2008 Share Posted April 25, 2008 Hmm... so at what temperature does this stuff start to melt again?... ... I'm considering using some of these repair rods to repair my cylinder head on an exhaust manifold bolt, but I'm betting the IRON manifold might get too hot and melt it. At this point even a helicoil might not bring it back. Once I have the engine out of the car and can take a better look at it we'll see. I might still buy some of those rods to play around with. Looks like super cheap fabricating fun! I kinda want to make an intake manifold now... EDIT: Oh yea, in the name of epoxies... the lotus elise chassis is held together with some rivets and lots of glue Though I wouldn't necessarily trust JB Weld THAT much... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cdenton Posted May 28, 2008 Share Posted May 28, 2008 Take note of how the epoxy is used on the frame above. The metal is bent and the epoxy is applied to the tab. Lots of surface area for the bond. While I believe that an epoxy will work in this application I do not think it will be permanent. You would have to make it so the flange had more surface area in contact with the intake pipe if you wanted it to be permanent. CD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
evildky Posted May 29, 2008 Share Posted May 29, 2008 I welded my BOV flange onto the alum pipe muself, unfortunately my TIGskills are lacking so I coated mine in JB to seal up and potential leaks, in my case it's just to fill pinholes, the flange is securely welded but ugly and spotty in a couple of places, that being said, a good friend of mine had a boat with a cracked waterjacket, which is basically the outter housing of the block, he JB welded it once a year, it would hold for about a year and then require grinding it out and redoing it, he had done this for at least 5 years, and a lot cheaper than a new block Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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