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How important is the PVC Valve????


milesz

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I am putting the N42 intake on my 83 280zx turbo. I am also upgrading the fuel rail and adding supra 440cc injectors. I am running into a problem with the PVC valve clearing the turbo. How important is connecting the PVC to the block? Can I plug it on the block and intake? Please call me at 928-706-0525. Need some advice.

 

Thanks

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i'm not sure how important it is or whatever BUT i will tell you that when i did my turbo swap i completely disconnected the pvc crap... just make sure you have NO vacuum leaks when you take it off... mine was leaking and it was causing way more problems then it was fixing..

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First and foremost, are you upgrading your fuel management at the same time? With Supra 440cc injectors and the stock ECU, you will be running incredibly rich.

 

Second, do NOT block off the PCV port out of the block. You need the crankcase pressure to vent, otherwise you will be leaking oil out of where ever it can find an out. At a minimum put a small filter on the end.

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The PVC valve isn't very important, but the PCV valve is. :D

 

IMO, the PCV valve is really quite important to the proper operation and logevity of an engine. A proper system will will crankcase fumes into the engine to be burned off, clearing damaging fumes. These fumes acn deteriorate the gaskets, and leave excess pressure in the crank case, without the PCV system connected.

At higher RPM, the PCV system will, when connected properly create a small vacuum, or at the very least less pressure in the crank case, allowing the pistons to move down the bores easier, helping create more power than without the PCV system connected.

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Is it possible for these to spew out oil if not connected to the intake? I know the little piece it used to thread into the intake has some sort of valve in it. I test drove my z (Just turboed it) the other day without it connected and I noticed that I had oil sprayed all under my hood. It appeared to be coming from the valve.

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an oil catch can with a filtered vent or a line going to the VC after oil has been separated from the crankcase vent hose would be ideal. that way you can monitor (in some form) blow by and crank case pressure as well as oil loss.

 

they're very easy to make. I hear the SRT neon guys use them to stay within warranty specifications. :lmao:

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I think it is best to keep the PCV valve. Reason being is that with just a filter on the crankcase vent tube, it is not really sucking the bad gasses out. The gasses may slip through a filter, but eventually the filter will get clogged with oil and then you have no crankcase ventilation.

 

Also, the cam cover vent will need to be hooked back up as well. Mine currently has a breather filter on now, but it really should get vacuumed out post turbine (with a check valve).

 

I see what you're dealing with. The stock ZXT intake has the PCV valve forward of the compressor outlet. The N42 has the PCV valve right above the compressor outlet.

 

You have two choices, either use that 90 degree fitting (I think that is what is in your pic) and mount the PCV horizontally to clear the compressor outlet, or you can plug the stock hole and drill and tap a new hole (I'm pretty certain it is 1/4" NPT) forward enough to clear the compressor outlet (2" should be enough).

 

I'm also using an oil catch-can between the crankcase vent tube and the relocated PCV valve.

 

Hope this helped milez...

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Polyvinyl chloride, (IUPAC Polychloroethene) commonly abbreviated PVC, is a widely used thermoplastic polymer. In terms of revenue generated, it is one of the most valuable products of the chemical industry. Around the world, over 50% of PVC manufactured is used in construction. As a building material, PVC is cheap, durable, and easy to assemble. In recent years, PVC has been replacing traditional building materials such as wood, concrete and clay in many areas. Despite the fact that PVC production negatively affects the natural environment and human health, it is still widely used.

 

 

Apparently the PVC is no good.

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If you decide to keep the idle regulator, here is a good relocation point if you've already deleted the A/C:

 

regulator_installed.jpg

 

For the inlet, I just tied into the charge pipe between the intercooler and throttle body (inlet shown plugged). Basically you just have to route the inlet / outlet before and after the throttle plate.

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If you want a cleaner install with the PCV system, you can do what I and a few others have done. With the non-webbed N42 intake it's easy....

Go to the hardware store and get a 1/4" NPT 90deg brass elbow. It will have male threads on one side and female on the other. Screw it into the stock PCV hole on the intake and aim it ( hole )towards the valve cover breather port. This will just clear the stock turbo. Screw the PCV valve into it. Get about a foot more or less length of 5/8" hose and run it from the valve cover to the PCV valve. Make sure to use hose clamps. The upper part is done.

For the block port, I used a catch can between the port and the inlet before the turbo. Same type 5/8" hose. I do have a custom pipe between the turbo and the AFM as I also have a recirc BOV, so it was easier for me than with the stock rubber inlet hose. You can get away without the catch can, and just go directly from the block breather to the hose between the AFM and the turbo, but it does get residual oil in it after a while.

Even though it's hooked up backwards in a way, it has worked great for me like this. I don't have any oil leaking or smoking problems, and this is on an 8.8 comp ratio non I/C'd turbo engine. Hope that helps. I would post some pics, but my computer is really slow and I am still in the stone age with dial up!!

 

Aaron

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Wouldn't it be easier to put a 90* elbow in there, screw the PCV valve into that and just get some extended hose and run it right into the normal spot on the block?

 

You can, but this may limit how much you can clock your compressor without interfering with the 90 degree fitting.

 

...For the block port, I used a catch can between the port and the inlet before the turbo. Same type 5/8" hose. I do have a custom pipe between the turbo and the AFM as I also have a recirc BOV, so it was easier for me than with the stock rubber inlet hose. You can get away without the catch can, and just go directly from the block breather to the hose between the AFM and the turbo, but it does get residual oil in it after a while. ...

 

How much boost are you running? I found that there is a lot more blow-by at 12psi than say 9psi. Even if you have a catch-can, it may not seperate out all the oil. I'd rather not take any chances of losing efficiency by the compressor turbine blades getting all gummed up and fouling of the IC. Who knows, it may also damage exposed element air temperatire sensors. My stock throttle body plate was so nasty and gummed up, it had to be caused by years of blow-by recirculation.

 

Since you are probably running no more than 9psi, no IC and the stock IAT sensor (located in the AFM) it is working for you.

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I'm only running the stock seven PSI with the stock turbo. It is a F54 flat top with a ported P90 head and a Delta turbo cam, stock turbo EFI. Runs great.

 

Awesome! Looks really clean aarang, nice job!! You're right, that is a really clean way to route the vent tubes. :icon14:

 

Did the ported head and turbo cam make a big difference in power? Do you recall the cam specs by chance?

 

I totally dig your S130T. I hope we can meet up someday!

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