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It's official Chevy 4.2ltr into a 70 Z Car! Need help Guys!


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Hey Guys:

 

Here's something interesting! I've stumbeled across a Custom Clutch Builder that has "Flex Plate" Mounted 7.25" clutches that bolt to the stock Flex Plate.

 

The Single Disk clutch is rated at 632ft/lbs, the twin disk clutch is 1264 ft/lbs! Weight is 9.4lbs and the twin is 14lbs! The Flex plate is very light, so this should help the REV's on the big 4.2ltr motor!

 

Jeremy: Have you weighed the Flywheel and Clutch Combo youy have? Be nice to see where each combo checks out at!

 

Single Disk Clutch is: $640 Requires a Custom 21 spline, 1-1/8" Disk Hub for R154

Double Disk Clutch is: $725 Same as above.

 

Disks are 6 Puck. Sprung and Rigid optioned. You have 3 choices on the Disk Material:

1. Kevlar Street/Strip

2. Ceramic Track only

3. Feramic Track only

 

Working out Throwout Bearing specifics now!

 

Jeremy: Do you have the throw out Bearing/Slave set-up for the Hummer or Colorado?

 

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Kevin Thornton

www.extrudabody.com

509-498-8555

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It would seem that not all MA5's-AX15's, and R154's are created equal! See below!

 

The old Supra R154 and the Jeep AX-15's use a Steel Bearing Carrier at the front of the transmission. The GM MA5's May or May not be steel? The colorado and Canyon may be where the Soltice shown below is Aluminum.

 

Mating the GM Slave Cylinder to the R154 will require an adapter it looks like foor sure! It should be easy enough to machine an adapter to hold the Slave below to the Steel R154's Bearing Carrier!

 

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Kevin,

I'm actually running this setup in my Mazda Pickup. It has a chevy 4.3 mated to a toyota R150. To use the chevy hydraulic throwout, simply bolt the solstice bearing retainer to the toyota trans. All bolts line up except for one!

 

BTW, I don't know how much the hydraulic slave has to do with it, but I would kill to get the light clutch feel in my truck in my cars. Weird, huh?

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Well the only drawback to bolting in the Soltice bearing carrier to the R154 is you give up the strength of the Steel Bearing carrier vs the Aluminum one from the Soltice!

 

The R154 uses a External Slave and Fork and they mount to the Bell housing, I plan to use the Colorado Bell housing so it has to mount to the bearing plate!

 

Slave is not that big of an issue to me, just have to work out the details of the fitment!

 

So Far:

Tranny was free Turbo R154 should have great gearing as well.

$75 Colorado Bell Housing

$725 Clutch

$90 Slave Cylinder

$50 Slave Adapter

 

Maybe that's all that's needed to work it out! We will see any way!

 

Kevin

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OH MY GOD I just found this thread :D

 

I had no bloody idear chevy made this motor, and now I am in love!!!

 

 

but the stock manifold has 2 airplane wings inside the Manifold between runners 1&2 and 5&6. It's actually a molded in portion of the Plenum in the shape of a "Wing" that divides the air above and below as it intersects the runner opening on #1 runners. It must increase the Velocity at the corners of the plenum that feed the outside 2 cylinders!

 

....And I had to stop reading and reply immediately to this because my guess is those wings are there to counter vortices generated at the extremes, just like in justin's plenum that got oh-so-much computer testing time and open critique and development with so many heads involved here.

 

 

 

 

thoughts??

 

 

Edit:

 

I have to confess.. I see this engine and get strange thoughts involving the chassis from say, a circa 1990 volvo 700 series.... or maybe even a bimmer!! Hmmmmm.. Seriously, I had NO idea this engine existed, and inline sixes just make me randy. (sorry, but its true.)

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I would agree with your accessment of the Wings inside the Manifold, it would seem that it greatly increases Velocity at the Corners of the Plenum!

 

Careful with the WOOD! This engine is VERY TALL, and I am having to rethink lots of different approaches, just by using it. After talking to Blue Ovals it may be one of those where the car is sectioned behind the front wheels wells and Length added to the Fenders and the Hood, as the X-Member really needs to go forward several inches. Cutting the fire wall and moving the engine backwards causes a serious Problem with the ITB fitment. Increasing the wheel base may not be a bad thing either, this is wher I would like to hear from others who have added wheel base to their CARS?

 

I have a E36 BMW and It would NOT fit in it I don't believe as the M50 Motor leans to the Passenger side a great deal! The E36 hood slopes to the front as well! Hood Clearance on the E36 for ITB's is a Pain as well, the intake port face more up, than to the side!

 

Kevin

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Well, Kevin, if you are looking at possibly SECTIONING the CAR to do this, I MUST suggest finding a different chassis to do it to... or, go back a couple steps, and look aat making the engine a stressed member of the chassis.

 

Ever see the steering setup on a later model Honda Civic? The rack sits just in front of the firewall, about on a level with hydraulics on our Z, and the steering knuckles are welded to the TOPS of the vertical suspension members rather than the bottom. Yes, its a total redesign of the vehicle.. but... Sectioning chassis number 935 to fit the motor?? HybridZ, woo hoo, I'm with you.. Most of the time.. but actually cutting the car in half to weld back together around the motor of your choice? I'd think more on the lines of other ways of re engineering...

 

I mean, its your project, and however you proceed will be awesome.. I wasn't wincing at butchering the chassis when you were talking of cutting tunnel and firewall, I just found my limits when I read "section the car behind the wheel wells...."

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Well, Kevin, if you are looking at possibly SECTIONING the CAR to do this, I MUST suggest finding a different chassis to do it to... or, go back a couple steps, and look aat making the engine a stressed member of the chassis.

 

Ever see the steering setup on a later model Honda Civic? The rack sits just in front of the firewall, about on a level with hydraulics on our Z, and the steering knuckles are welded to the TOPS of the vertical suspension members rather than the bottom. Yes, its a total redesign of the vehicle.. but... Sectioning chassis number 935 to fit the motor?? HybridZ, woo hoo, I'm with you.. Most of the time.. but actually cutting the car in half to weld back together around the motor of your choice? I'd think more on the lines of other ways of re engineering...

 

I mean, its your project, and however you proceed will be awesome.. I wasn't wincing at butchering the chassis when you were talking of cutting tunnel and firewall, I just found my limits when I read "section the car behind the wheel wells...."

What? This is #935?

 

If that's true, Hybridz or not, I'm afraid I agree with Daeron.

 

Edit: I see. I guess that's what I get for not paying attention.

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Hahaha! Well first off making a suggestion of one way of doing something on here is not always a direction to be taken. The Chassis already has Fiberglass Qtr Panels that are cracking in a couple of different places, with most of the firewall that is not original, and both frame rails will need some more attention to make it a sound car. While it could be excellent chassis for a full restoration it was never my intention to restore the car to that depth!

 

When I said Section the Car, it would be the Fenders and the Hood only, as the front half of the Chassis would be an all new design, that's tied into the Roll Cage and the rest of the Chassis! If somone out there has a decent Chassis and wants to do a Full restoration, I'm sure the Title holder of the car and I would be up for a Trade?

 

The Civic idea while interesting I just don't believe it will work as the engine is so massive it height and length, there's just no place to pass the Rack from 1 side to the other. Keeping the rack Low and out front will have to be the direction I take.

 

This car I am also looking at putting John Washington's wide body kit on it, with 15 x 12" and 15x 9" custom wheels using Billet Centers of my own design, and Sanders wheel Halves as the wheel halves are $781....... for 4 x 15" x 4", 2 x 15" x 5" and 2 x 15" x 8" to make up the 12" wide and 9" wide Wheels.

http://www.speedwaymotors.com/p/6674,174_Sander-15andquot;-Wheel-Halves-iNo-Beadlockandi.html

 

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hrmmmmmmm...

 

Well, far be it from me to comment any more on how you fit it in there. Just make it happen and I will smile when I see the end result :D

 

 

 

ONE OTHER point I will bring up... Subaru XT6s had Full Power steering. Now, that system required some liquid gold steering fluid which is now at LEAST as expensive by volume as R12.. but it required no steering column shaft. Any chance of finding a full power steering setup, or is that right out in your book?? (I can CERTAINLY agree with anyone who would write that possibility off without a second thought... I hesitate to even bring it up...)

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Hey Dareon:

 

Suggest away, as I need out of the box ideas! :)

 

With 15" x 9/10" wheels on the front I would like to incorporate Power Steering, and honestly I am still kicking around AWD, with Paddle Shift Automatic. So nothing is out at this moment!

 

Waiting on the Bellhousing now to see where we are with fitment.

 

Kevin

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Hey Dareon:

 

Suggest away, as I need out of the box ideas! :)

 

I would, if I had any.. I was merely stepping back from the "anti-hybrid" stance on this chassis. Really, about the only thing that makes any sense in my mind would be to lop the front half off and go tube frame on it.... but then we once again run into the "but its chassis #935!" conflict. I have put that conflict to bed in my mind, for this case, and just wanna see that 4200cc, dual overhead cam, cross-flow'd headed in line six cylinder in an S30. :burnout:

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Has there been any thoughts into the elimination of the crossmember in the traditional sense? For example, if this engine were to be solidly mounted between the frame rails, could the engine mounting system itself be designed to carry the suspension points (using the block to become a part of the chassis)? Obviously if would entail some amount of engineering and a rigid means of supporting the block to prevent pitching and yaw movement through a rear plate or solid transmission mount. The steering rack mounting would be something that could be fairly easily resolved if this was done.

 

Required would be a component that will be bolted onto either side of the engine that would distribute the mounting fasting points over as broad an area as possible (this would allow the mounts to be rigidly fastened to the block without fear of stressing these fasteners in a cantilever mounting onto the frame rails). If this location was aligned with the Datsun OEM crossmember mounting points in the framerails, great, but I'm sure that these could be offset by some acceptable amount.

 

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