rudypoochris Posted May 5, 2008 Share Posted May 5, 2008 How low have you dropped your car? No clue what it was set at. I ran the motion using a floor jack under the strut. Actually in this case I bottomed the coilover out before jacking so it didn't raise the car. The control arms has the golden colored tube pointed at a full 90 degrees for maximum distance. I didn't even bother touching the rod ends to adjust track and such. I just did a quick check. Didn't have an issue. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roostmonkey Posted May 5, 2008 Share Posted May 5, 2008 I'm having this same problem with binding. My car is lowered 2-3", R200 LSD, MM companion flanges and flipped 300zx CV's. The wheels turn freely while on the lift, but off the lift, you cant even push the car.Ive had to swap the 280 axles back in. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kash Posted May 6, 2008 Share Posted May 6, 2008 Just got done cutting off the extra 1/4 inch off the end of each axle after flipping the race. No longer have an end clip to keep the spline from slipping out, but I can't see that happening considering how much binding I had before... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Modern Motorsports Ltd Posted May 6, 2008 Share Posted May 6, 2008 There are good reasons to lower a Z more than 2.5-3 inches (see my sig). There are negative effects to doing so with stockish suspension, but it can be done in a beneficial way if the time and effort is utilized to do it right. I think that with the emergence of larger and larger diameter wheels your percentage of problems with shaft length is likely to be more than 1% looking into the future, and this will be a good item for you to have in your product line. Big wheel guys have to lower the car further in order to get the look that they're after, and I don't see that trend changing any time soon. Completely agreed Jon! We're just getting a small batch of shorter shafts underway now. I'm just resecuring a spare set so we can finalize some measurements at present. For clarification (likely clarified by others) -280ZXT CV's have a shorter compressed length than the Z31 4 bolt CV's (ie. 280ZXT CV's can a greater ride height drop etc than Z31 CV's before binding) -their are 3 Z31 CV types, 6 bolt outer flange sets that are far too long for Z use, and then two variants of the 4 bolt outer flange that go with our adaptors. (visous SE with unique R200 input shafts and the typical 4 bolt non viscous Z31 R200's) The 4 bolt outer flange sets are same compressed length's and can be fully compressed/bound on a Z car that's been notably lowered. We don't have enough info to have an exact figure on this but it's always good practise to confirm your axles have travel throughout your suspension range without binding As Jon noted, in comparing axles the compressed lengths should always be used and make sure your comparision points are common amongst the measurements. I'll update on the availability of the new shorter center sections shortly. Any other questions at all please let us know. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wheelman Posted May 6, 2008 Share Posted May 6, 2008 I've dealt with this issue on my 240Z as well but it didn't appear (at least I didin't notice it) until after I intalled an LSD. My 240 started out with Tokico lowering springs and an open R200. With this setup there appeared to be no binding at all once I flipped the cages in the outer CVs. I then replaced the Tokico springs with coilovers/camber plates and ran the car at about the same ride height as before. Again I noticed no binding but I also found that I had to run the rear biscuit type camber plates at basically the stock camber setting. If I tried to set more negative camber the axles did bind when at full droop and full compression. When I installed the LSD I initially didn't notice any more binding than with the open diff but after a couple auto-x sessions I found the right axle would bind when compressed. It was probably binding but I just didn't notice it right away. I noticed the binding while driving home after an auto-x event, when the right rear was compressed by a bump the rear of the car would jump to the right. This is the really stupid thing on my part but I basically ignored it and the next day I put the car into a curb at an event. I was hard in the throttle around a left hand sweeper and the rear came loose. After much thought I'm convinced it was partly caused by the right axle binding up from compression. That along with the power being applied caused the rear to break loose and I slid into a curb. Anyway I've since rebuilt the car and replaced the right rear suspension parts. When I initially put things back together the right axle was binding a bit so I ground about 1/8" off the outer end and also set the rear camber at only -1 degree. There is no binding now through the entire range of the suspension. I might be able to add another 1/2 degree negative camber before it binds but the biscuit type plates I have don't provide adjustment that fine so I'm stuck where I'm at. The driver's side has always had plenty of clearance. One facter nobody has mentioned yet could be how far the right side axle slides into the diff before it bottoms out. I didn't measure the open diff or the LSD but before the LSD install I'm pretty sure I had no binding on the right side and have never had any on the left side. Both axles securely snap in so the clip ring is engaging. Edit: The LSD I run is a Clutch type Power Brute. Wheelman Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
getZ Posted May 6, 2008 Share Posted May 6, 2008 My problem side is the right side and I also run a power brute. My solution was to run without the end cap and grind about an 1/8 off the stub axle. I just haven't had time to take the car out and run it through the turns to check it out yet. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rudypoochris Posted May 7, 2008 Share Posted May 7, 2008 Hmm. Are you guys running OE axles that are flipped or are you running rebuilt axles from the parts store? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JSM Posted May 7, 2008 Share Posted May 7, 2008 I'll update on the availability of the new shorter center sections shortly. Any other questions at all please let us know. Silly question can the distance between the arrows be made any narrower? If you cut the circle piece you weld on like the drawing I made would that effect to much strength? My thought was to center it in the middle depth wise, it looks to be a good 1/2" thick. The green line would keep it from going all the way through, recessed. This may not work at all, just a thought. But it may gain a 1/8 - 1/4". Maybe it is that way and I just can't quite tell from the pics. From the Left upper pic, it looks like it is recessed. The right lower Pic looks like it is welded on top. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JSM Posted May 7, 2008 Share Posted May 7, 2008 It doesn't look like there is any room to move it that way. Never mind my previous comments. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan Juday Posted May 7, 2008 Share Posted May 7, 2008 If the new companion flanges where threaded so you didn't have to fit a nut on the back side then could you make them thinner without giving up any strength. There is another guy on this site working on this same thing. The idea is not original with me. Then you could get the extra room to resolve the binding issue without the added expence of shorter axels. After all, it's only the length of the stock axels that is an issue, not the strength. But, I don't know how much of the issue is clearance for the stub axel nut. Ross? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
getZ Posted May 7, 2008 Share Posted May 7, 2008 Hmm. Are you guys running OE axles that are flipped or are you running rebuilt axles from the parts store? My CV's were ebay specials, I don't think they were rebuilt, but I did have the cages flipped. I did notice that both axles don't seat all the way into the LSD. I'll have to go take another look. If I remember correctly the right side was sticking out about 3/8 inch. If that's the case, it would be cheaper and easier to recut the locking ring groove and grind down the end. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rudypoochris Posted May 7, 2008 Share Posted May 7, 2008 My CV's were ebay specials, I don't think they were rebuilt, but I did have the cages flipped. I did notice that both axles don't seat all the way into the LSD. I'll have to go take another look. If I remember correctly the right side was sticking out about 3/8 inch. If that's the case, it would be cheaper and easier to recut the locking ring groove and grind down the end. Well it does very much sound like this is probably your issue more than anything else... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wheelman Posted May 7, 2008 Share Posted May 7, 2008 My axles are OEM not rebuilt or aftermarket. In fact I need to replace the outer boot on the left side axle. Wheelman Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rudypoochris Posted May 7, 2008 Share Posted May 7, 2008 My axles are OEM not rebuilt or aftermarket. In fact I need to replace the outer boot on the left side axle. Wheelman Interesting, is this on OEM LCA's? Is it possible the camber changed? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wheelman Posted May 8, 2008 Share Posted May 8, 2008 As far as I know the LCAs are original. The camber changed when I installed the Tokico springs but at that point I don't remember feeling any binding. I ran the same ride height when I installed coil overs and again don't remember feeling any binding. The first time I remember noticing the binding was after installing the LSD. I haven't been under the car recently so can't say how far the right side axle slides into the diff carrier but it may stick out a bit more than when I had the open diff. Wheelman Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aziza z Posted May 8, 2008 Share Posted May 8, 2008 I bought cvs already. I was going to install them but I think im going to wait until I can get adjustable lower control arms as well. That seems like a decent solution. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NZeder Posted June 16, 2008 Share Posted June 16, 2008 Yep have a R200 in the rear now with the 260z (we didn't get the S30 280z locally steering wheel is on the other side) mustache bar so what I meant is that the car was originally a forward mount R180 however it is now changed/corrected with the R200 fitted too. I guess I was trying to see if all the other cars with the shaft length issue are all early shells that originally has the forward mounted diff (ie upgraded to the R200 with correct mustache bar and CV shafts) I managed to find a stock Nissan CV shaft that is shorter than the 300zxt shaft - I will have to go out to the shed and find it and measure it again. This shaft has the same spline count/size as the 300zxt shaft just shorter, I think at the time I thought it was too short but I might have to revisit the maths again. Again I will update shortly - later today my time. Just realised I did not post the length of that other axle that I found. Anyway attached is the 300zx and 300zxt shafts (complete max and min length) as I have 2 spare long shafts I can confirm they are approx 400mm long and I know the short side is approx 10mm shorter and looking at the attached spec sheet you will see that this works out - ie long side fully compressed = 421.5mm short side fully compressed = 409.5mm so the difference is the shaft length (as if you look at how the length is measured you will see this does not include the bit inside the diff) so that is a difference of 12mm or almost 1/2" for you guys that measure in that method. So to recap the 300ZXT shafts (that is without the CV's on the ends ie just the bare centre shaft) are as follows (approx lengths) Long side = 400mm shaft Short side = 388mm shaft The other Nissan shaft that I have found has the same splines as the Z31 300zxt shafts. And both sides are the same length. The length is 343mm for the shaft only. so that is 57mm shorter than the standard Z31 300ZXT long shaft and 45mm shorter than the Z31 300ZXT short shaft. My plan is to do see if some standard short nose R200 plug-in axles + these shorter shafts with the right combo of CV bits will result in a solution with no binding or chance of such occurring no matter how low your car is - once I know what the solution (if it works) I will let you know what the axles are from but they should be more common and easier to find given the number of these manufactured. If this does work it will also mean there will be a solution for VLSD centre too without the need for the hard to get (rare if you like) 1988 SS (or is that SE) VLSD Z31 300ZXT halfshafts. And even a solution for the S15 HLSD centres if you get the diff input axles too. I will update this thread once I get hold of a short nose R200 with the diff plug-in axles that I am looking for (I will know after the weekend if I get the one off our evil bay for $20 - want to keep the cost low incase this does not work don't want to be too far out of pocket) but again all using parts from wrecks so far to see if the combo does work out. Cheers Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
notheredave Posted June 16, 2008 Share Posted June 16, 2008 I have tried to post on some of these threads about this...With NO reply. It's nice that someone else is doing this work. I build a 90 M30 R200 with a viscous unit and some 14" (356mm) shafts...Still waiting for the inside CV's and I will need adapters for the turbo z31 type outer CV's I would be interested in the shaft info. Thanks!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NZeder Posted June 26, 2008 Share Posted June 26, 2008 Ok got my cheap $20 NZD ($15 USD) open short nose R200 diff for the little plug in axles so in the weekend I will see if these + the hybrid axles will work = shorter than the 300ZXT CV shafts. Will update with pics after the weekend. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
notheredave Posted June 28, 2008 Share Posted June 28, 2008 Ok got my cheap $20 NZD ($15 USD) open short nose R200 diff for the little plug in axles so in the weekend I will see if these + the hybrid axles will work = shorter than the 300ZXT CV shafts. Will update with pics after the weekend. Thanks for sharing... I just put together mine (for mock up) and they look great... Also I need to machine the clip groove, cv rebuild kits and the turbo companion flanges before I am on the road with this setup. PS make sure that you don't mix up the shims and bearing races...I did and had to redo the bearings and setup the diff. from scratch and checked the pattern. Also if you use a different driveshaft yoke...Be careful not to over tighten the nut...I would use a lot of locktight and gently tighten...Not to crush the collar inside which would be BAD... Good luck PS I look forward to the pictures Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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