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Electric 240z Project Pics


jmead

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I think you should use the FS5R30A Transmission rather than the FS5W17B or C.

 

if it has to take near 400 torque from an electric motor, which is almost instantaneous compared to the stock L engine, you may see exploding tranny bits soon.

 

I'm thinking its going to peak at 250 ft/lbs or so

 

400 is more the territory of twin motor / 2000A controller setups

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I think you should use the FS5R30A Transmission rather than the FS5W17B or C.

 

if it has to take near 400 torque from an electric motor, which is almost instantaneous compared to the stock L engine, you may see exploding tranny bits soon.

 

I also think my tires will act like a "mechanical fuse" by loosing traction. If my motor is making 250ft/lbs but the tires break loose at anything over 175...then the transmission never "sees" more than 175. Right? I've heard it is good up until 250 or so. I've got a spare 5spd sitting here that I guess I'll hold onto for now, just in case.

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How does it drive? Get some videos for us to see! Thats amazing cool gas saver project:icon14:

 

 

 

 

I also think my tires will act like a "mechanical fuse" by loosing traction. If my motor is making 250ft/lbs but the tires break loose at anything over 175...then the transmission never "sees" more than 175. Right? I've heard it is good up until 250 or so. I've got a spare 5spd sitting here that I guess I'll hold onto for now, just in case.
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I also think my tires will act like a "mechanical fuse" by loosing traction. If my motor is making 250ft/lbs but the tires break loose at anything over 175...then the transmission never "sees" more than 175. Right? I've heard it is good up until 250 or so. I've got a spare 5spd sitting here that I guess I'll hold onto for now, just in case.

 

Agreed. There's a reason why so many people break driveline parts at the track. Do you think those people really don't go that hard on their car on the street? Most tracks are WAY stickier than street asphalt and provide a lot more traction, meaning people can launch at higher RPM sending more torque through the driveline.

 

If you're keeping the tires stock then I doubt there will be much issue. I'm more curious what driveability is like. Seems like it'd be weird driving a manual eletric car. I'm curious what clutch you're using though, as I'd imagine the massive torque from the motor to take it's toll when feathering the clutch.

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Agreed. There's a reason why so many people break driveline parts at the track. Do you think those people really don't go that hard on their car on the street? Most tracks are WAY stickier than street asphalt and provide a lot more traction, meaning people can launch at higher RPM sending more torque through the driveline.

 

If you're keeping the tires stock then I doubt there will be much issue. I'm more curious what driveability is like. Seems like it'd be weird driving a manual eletric car. I'm curious what clutch you're using though, as I'd imagine the massive torque from the motor to take it's toll when feathering the clutch.

 

No clutch, solid coupler from the motor to transmission. You don't need a clutch because you don't need to idle, when the car isn't moving the motor is simply off, plus pretty much all driving can be done in second. I saved quite a bit of rotating mass this way, and opened up a vent for air flow from the motor to exit the transmission.

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So and idea how much it's costing in electricity? I'd think here in California it'd cost just as much as gas, as electricity isn't cheap.

 

Battery's aren't cheap to replace I'm sure, but I'd imagine overall maintanence goes down quite a bit.

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Have you thought about those small solar panel battery chargers? I have a small 15w one that keeps my motor home batteries fully charged when the vehicle is parked. I think I paid about $15.00 for it. They have much larger ones readily available. Maybe put one in the rear hatch area to charge while daylight..even while driving. It may give you a bit of extra range, and might help out while its parked all day at work/school/shopping.

 

Just an idea.

 

Love the project.

 

Scott.

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Have you thought about those small solar panel battery chargers? I have a small 15w one that keeps my motor home batteries fully charged when the vehicle is parked. I think I paid about $15.00 for it. They have much larger ones readily available. Maybe put one in the rear hatch area to charge while daylight..even while driving. It may give you a bit of extra range, and might help out while its parked all day at work/school/shopping.

 

Just an idea.

 

Love the project.

 

Scott.

Interesting. Maybe a strip right at the top of the windshield.

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all you need to do is invent a car cover that charges the batteries... using the same technology as these rv ones... drive to work... put the car cover on and when you get done with work your car cover has refilled the car for you ... I think your on to somthing =)

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So and idea how much it's costing in electricity? I'd think here in California it'd cost just as much as gas, as electricity isn't cheap.

 

Battery's aren't cheap to replace I'm sure, but I'd imagine overall maintanence goes down quite a bit.

 

 

Electricity is about $.10 per kwh. My pack holds 10 kwh, so, $1 for a full charge. Let me see you drive 40 miles on $1 worth of gas.

 

Here is a quick little video I took today while I was testing the motor mount.

 

http://www.jumpcut.com/view/?id=CEEFB4120A8211DD8F60000423CEF5B0

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Electricity is about $.10 per kwh. My pack holds 10 kwh, so, $1 for a full charge. Let me see you drive 40 miles on $1 worth of gas.

 

Here is a quick little video I took today while I was testing the motor mount.

 

http://www.jumpcut.com/view/?id=CEEFB4120A8211DD8F60000423CEF5B0

 

Impressive indeed. I think here in CA we're paying around .12 per KwH in residential areas. So that's still quite a bit cheaper than gas... and it's no slouch like a lot of the electric cars being made. What do you think your cruising speed will have to be to get the most out of the batteries? With such a short range driving 80mph might not be wise. :D

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How do you charge it out of curiosity? Looks awesome!

 

I'm still working on the charger. In the fuel filler door there is going to be a male connector, you will just plug it in and it will go into recharge mode. I hope to charge at about 25 amps from a 240 line, maybe 15 amps from a 120v circuit. Its going to be a two phase system with the pack charging up to 90% quickly and then bulk charge will shut off and several intelligent smaller chargers will top each battery off one by one until they are each completely full. This way I can get back on the road quickly from a nearly empty pack, but when it is plugged in for longer periods (over night) it will do battery maintenance.

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Dumb question..

 

 

but if its a manual transmission how to you connect this to the motor?! I was wondering if you bolt on a flywheel to the electric motor?! (or bolt on a flex plate for an automatic transmission)

 

you can bolt on a flywheel, but I chose not to. Instead there is an adapter thamates the motor shaft and the transmission shaft.

 

dscn1763.jpg

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with the instant torque a electric motor can kick out, why even bother with 1st gear? i mean people can slip the clutch on gas motors to leave the line in second... seems like 1st is pointless.

 

The motor draws less amps in first. It uses the same amount of power total (volts x amps) but the amperage is higher (and the voltage lower) in a higher gear so the motor would produce more heat.

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this might sound really dumb but I have not seen anyone ask this yet.

 

so the setup weights some 800+ pounds with those heavy 30+ pound batteries. Is it possible to use light weight batteries that weight around 12 pounds like deka etx series or braille batteries for example?

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