Jump to content
HybridZ
jmead

Electric 240z Project Pics

Recommended Posts

I also think my tires will act like a "mechanical fuse" by loosing traction. If my motor is making 250ft/lbs but the tires break loose at anything over 175...then the transmission never "sees" more than 175. Right? I've heard it is good up until 250 or so. I've got a spare 5spd sitting here that I guess I'll hold onto for now, just in case.

 

Agreed. There's a reason why so many people break driveline parts at the track. Do you think those people really don't go that hard on their car on the street? Most tracks are WAY stickier than street asphalt and provide a lot more traction, meaning people can launch at higher RPM sending more torque through the driveline.

 

If you're keeping the tires stock then I doubt there will be much issue. I'm more curious what driveability is like. Seems like it'd be weird driving a manual eletric car. I'm curious what clutch you're using though, as I'd imagine the massive torque from the motor to take it's toll when feathering the clutch.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Agreed. There's a reason why so many people break driveline parts at the track. Do you think those people really don't go that hard on their car on the street? Most tracks are WAY stickier than street asphalt and provide a lot more traction, meaning people can launch at higher RPM sending more torque through the driveline.

 

If you're keeping the tires stock then I doubt there will be much issue. I'm more curious what driveability is like. Seems like it'd be weird driving a manual eletric car. I'm curious what clutch you're using though, as I'd imagine the massive torque from the motor to take it's toll when feathering the clutch.

 

No clutch, solid coupler from the motor to transmission. You don't need a clutch because you don't need to idle, when the car isn't moving the motor is simply off, plus pretty much all driving can be done in second. I saved quite a bit of rotating mass this way, and opened up a vent for air flow from the motor to exit the transmission.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

So and idea how much it's costing in electricity? I'd think here in California it'd cost just as much as gas, as electricity isn't cheap.

 

Battery's aren't cheap to replace I'm sure, but I'd imagine overall maintanence goes down quite a bit.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Have you thought about those small solar panel battery chargers? I have a small 15w one that keeps my motor home batteries fully charged when the vehicle is parked. I think I paid about $15.00 for it. They have much larger ones readily available. Maybe put one in the rear hatch area to charge while daylight..even while driving. It may give you a bit of extra range, and might help out while its parked all day at work/school/shopping.

 

Just an idea.

 

Love the project.

 

Scott.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Have you thought about those small solar panel battery chargers? I have a small 15w one that keeps my motor home batteries fully charged when the vehicle is parked. I think I paid about $15.00 for it. They have much larger ones readily available. Maybe put one in the rear hatch area to charge while daylight..even while driving. It may give you a bit of extra range, and might help out while its parked all day at work/school/shopping.

 

Just an idea.

 

Love the project.

 

Scott.

Interesting. Maybe a strip right at the top of the windshield.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
So and idea how much it's costing in electricity? I'd think here in California it'd cost just as much as gas, as electricity isn't cheap.

 

Battery's aren't cheap to replace I'm sure, but I'd imagine overall maintanence goes down quite a bit.

 

 

Electricity is about $.10 per kwh. My pack holds 10 kwh, so, $1 for a full charge. Let me see you drive 40 miles on $1 worth of gas.

 

Here is a quick little video I took today while I was testing the motor mount.

 

http://www.jumpcut.com/view/?id=CEEFB4120A8211DD8F60000423CEF5B0

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Electricity is about $.10 per kwh. My pack holds 10 kwh, so, $1 for a full charge. Let me see you drive 40 miles on $1 worth of gas.

 

Here is a quick little video I took today while I was testing the motor mount.

 

http://www.jumpcut.com/view/?id=CEEFB4120A8211DD8F60000423CEF5B0

 

Impressive indeed. I think here in CA we're paying around .12 per KwH in residential areas. So that's still quite a bit cheaper than gas... and it's no slouch like a lot of the electric cars being made. What do you think your cruising speed will have to be to get the most out of the batteries? With such a short range driving 80mph might not be wise. :D

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
How do you charge it out of curiosity? Looks awesome!

 

I'm still working on the charger. In the fuel filler door there is going to be a male connector, you will just plug it in and it will go into recharge mode. I hope to charge at about 25 amps from a 240 line, maybe 15 amps from a 120v circuit. Its going to be a two phase system with the pack charging up to 90% quickly and then bulk charge will shut off and several intelligent smaller chargers will top each battery off one by one until they are each completely full. This way I can get back on the road quickly from a nearly empty pack, but when it is plugged in for longer periods (over night) it will do battery maintenance.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Dumb question..

 

 

but if its a manual transmission how to you connect this to the motor?! I was wondering if you bolt on a flywheel to the electric motor?! (or bolt on a flex plate for an automatic transmission)

 

you can bolt on a flywheel, but I chose not to. Instead there is an adapter thamates the motor shaft and the transmission shaft.

 

dscn1763.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
with the instant torque a electric motor can kick out, why even bother with 1st gear? i mean people can slip the clutch on gas motors to leave the line in second... seems like 1st is pointless.

 

The motor draws less amps in first. It uses the same amount of power total (volts x amps) but the amperage is higher (and the voltage lower) in a higher gear so the motor would produce more heat.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

this might sound really dumb but I have not seen anyone ask this yet.

 

so the setup weights some 800+ pounds with those heavy 30+ pound batteries. Is it possible to use light weight batteries that weight around 12 pounds like deka etx series or braille batteries for example?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

he said he would be switching to another battery later. for now this is how it's gonna be.

 

figure with the saved money from gas after all is said and done, it will actually pay for itself, even before the battery swap.

 

(oh dear, we're talking about higher horsepower battery swaps now. NOOOOOOOO)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
this might sound really dumb but I have not seen anyone ask this yet.

 

so the setup weights some 800+ pounds with those heavy 30+ pound batteries. Is it possible to use light weight batteries that weight around 12 pounds like deka etx series or braille batteries for example?

 

 

Sure, generally larger batteries can put out more amps, or the same amps for longer period of time. For a strictly drag race only vehicle you could use a pack of lightweight high amperage batteries for short blasts down the track. The batteries white zombie uses I believe are 16lbs each.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
so in order to shift, you just ease up on the throttle and slip the gear in while the motor is idling?

 

Thats it, its suprisingly easy to do. If your going down a gear you just blip the throttle and ease it in, it will shift when you get the rpms right, pretty similar for upshifting. You let the synchros do the work, but the motor is very light and doesn't have alot of intertia so they can match its speed easily. It doesn't put nearly as much stress on the tranny as trying to do the same thing with a full engine attached.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I think this will be what happens to my Z31 if the motor pops.

 

My father has been working, teaching, living, breathing, and rebuilding A/C and D/C Starter motors for about 40 years now. Surely this is something he would definately want to help me on, as he loved the car when he found out I paid 1700 for it!

 

Where would one acquire such a motor anyways? I'm sure my dad knows, but just for FAQ sake.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Don't tell anyone I've been browsing this site....

 

http://www.evparts.com/prod-MT2144.htm

 

:icon55: I caught you Gollum! Come back towards the light :(

 

Lol, jk. You have a stellar project there. I love burning dino blood as much as everyone else (Gollum just got excluded from this group :roll:) but I really dig your car. More POWER to you! Lol, get it?!?!

 

Keep the updates coming dude.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
so what is your top speed so far?

 

I don't have the spedo hooked up, but it pulls so hard i've probably hit 50 in that little parking lot i've been testing it out in. I can't begin to tell you guys how much fun it is. I used to think it was a fast car in stock form, now its almost silly. I used to be able to chirp the tires in a straight line, now I can roast them.

 

Careless - why wait? Sounds like your dad knows everything needed to build an EV. I think most starter motors operate at lower voltages than most street vehicles, but their operation is the same. There are lots of EV suppliers, though I got my motor on ebay actually. NetGain makes several sizes that appear very solid, if anything happens to my motor I'll probably switch to one of theirs.

 

Gollum - That thing is a beast! Their curve ends at 450 amps but that is just a fraction of what it can handle. At 1000 amps you're talking like 280 ft/lbs! At 2000 Amps.....

 

Just $4000....hmm....

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
this might sound really dumb but I have not seen anyone ask this yet.

 

so the setup weights some 800+ pounds with those heavy 30+ pound batteries. Is it possible to use light weight batteries that weight around 12 pounds like deka etx series or braille batteries for example?

 

The problem I've been seeing, reading and heard about with the DEKA or other AGM small case batteries is that you need more of them to equal the same reserve capacity of a larger case battery, even though the instant discharge rate might be the same or close. This would work well for a short run, high rate of accel car like a drag racer, but not for distance like we want.

 

The guy that is or will be helping me, has been looking into using Li/ion batteries in the AA or AAA size, which we will then place into our own cases, replaceable as modules.

I'm likely going to start with conventional batteries to get it going and then switch out later, once the initial cost of conversion is dealt with. :shock:

 

jmead;

 

I'm more interested in the choice to use the tranny, especially without the clutch. I've held onto my clutch for now, because I figured it would be easier to drive with, especially while down shifting. I can drive no problem without using the clutch, but still need to work on my clutchless down shifting, I would imagine this would be more difficult (for me) than with a gas engine, since I'm used to the rate of decay or RPM on a gas engine, especially with a heavy flywheel, with just the coupler, the rate of decay should be higher, making that time to slip into the lower gear shorter.

I'd rather run without a clutch, since that's added weight that will eat power, on accel, but may help once your rolling along.

 

I'm even considering doing away with the tranny, and going with a taller gear, to save weight, but I'm not sure how towing will be effected by this. Hmmm, removing 1st and 2nd gear, and leaving only the last 3 gears for towing accel and cruising may be an option.

 

Thoughts?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.


×
×
  • Create New...