josh817 Posted July 17, 2008 Author Share Posted July 17, 2008 They are. I bought the clutch because it said it was for an '83 zxt 240mm. This is meant for the T5 tranny because thats when Nissan switched to the bigger flywheel. I'm not sure about the zx but I know when they went turbo they had to make it fit otherwise I bet they would have used the same flywheel all the ways through the series. I confirmed this because 240mm = 9.44" around there and the face of the flywheel the old flywheel was that size, plus when you lay it on there you see that the pads fit onto their surface. On the new flywheel they hung off the edge a little, PLUS I took out the flywheel that came from my spare L24 motor and the measurements for the new and the L24 are the same. Then I confirmed this when I looked in the Z catalog and they show flywheels for 240-280 then there was a separate flywheel for a 280zx/zxt. Basically like I said Nissan used the same flywheel for the 240, 260, and 280 but when they hit the T5 they changed it. Good news out of all of this though! Sent my old flywheel to the machine shop and the price to lighten it is $120! Theres a catch though and I really need to consider it... All we can say is lighten it as much as possible, but that doesn't mean I will get a 10lb flywheel... he may only be able to get it to 15lbs or whatever. I don't know what the material is, steel or iron, if steel then maybe he can get it to 10lbs... I don't want to settle for anything less on a flywheel. I want 11lbs or under, period. I read up that a stroker needs 11lbs or less, anymore you can run into problems. I told my dad this and he thinks its all a bunch of **** but thats a big difference from 10lbs to 15lbs. I want to go back and ask the guy if he knows how light he can get it because I'm serious about this... I'd rather spend a lot more money to get the right weight than save money and have something that has the potential to screw things up and more potential to make my motor girlie and less than what I expect. Of course he's a Triumph guy and his stuff isn't as shnazzy as our Z stuff. > 15lbs is so cool to him 10 is even better so to him 15 is like wow! Not so wow for me... :[ But you never know! Maybe he can get it down to 10 or less! If he can't then maybe I sell that too... and then go out and buy the one I need. TheZStore is showing all of their flywheels for 24-260-280-280zx but not zxt so I don't know what to think about that... If their flywheel still works then I will go with them because this catalog is showing $500 for one in here but TheZStore has a Kameari flywheel for $519 so something is wrong if I can get KAMEARI just $20 more. XD NOTE TO EVERYONE: If you have sent your 240mm flywheel to get lightened please share how much they can get it to or if you think a stock flywheel can even hit the 10lb mark! I am VERY wary about this. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Quin Posted July 17, 2008 Share Posted July 17, 2008 Just duct tape it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
josh817 Posted July 17, 2008 Author Share Posted July 17, 2008 Uh what? >_> Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kiwi303 Posted July 17, 2008 Share Posted July 17, 2008 I think he was refering to the old saw of how a shade tree mechanic only needs 2 tools. "if it moves and it oughtn't, duct tape it, if it ain't moving and it ought, use a hammer" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Quin Posted July 17, 2008 Share Posted July 17, 2008 I just meant make a flywheel from duct tape, but that sounds more classy, so we'll go with that Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
josh817 Posted July 17, 2008 Author Share Posted July 17, 2008 I say just leave it off and wing it if I had such a courageous thought to use duct tape in a motor... Then again Triumph and Jaguar do use balsa wood for crank case seals I do believe... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Quin Posted July 17, 2008 Share Posted July 17, 2008 Hey, it's lightweight! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
josh817 Posted July 17, 2008 Author Share Posted July 17, 2008 http://www.zcar.com/forums/read/12/1948051 If that doesn't make you feel like the biggest butthole in the world than I'm not sure what does... Depressing... Even if I did wait to buy carbs I would have never been that quick to see it. They were like ducks and bread crumbs. Damn. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Careless Posted July 17, 2008 Share Posted July 17, 2008 josh, there is no need to run a certain weight flywheel. I'd say 15 lbs is right where your engine should be. 10 lbs is compromsing the rigidity of the flywheel and also requires new fasteners because i'd imagine there is a lot of material removed and the bolts might bottom out or torque improperly. I took my clutch off my 300zx Turbo 2 weeks ago and noticed fine hairline cracks in the face of the flywheel that FOR SURE expand when it's hot. And I found unusual heat marks on the spring hub of the clutch. I think a couple more hard shifts (if it went into gear at all), and it would have sent a 6000 RPM 24lbs Circular Saw blade straight through my bell housing. Think twice about compromising the rigidity of a stock flywheel. They're cast steel, and not strong like chromoly. Take a look at this: http://redz31.net/pages/flywheel.html The links on the images don't work. you'll have to change the .com to .net for each of the images. please look at that before you decide to put yourself in danger by making a standard flywheel that is some-odd years old become half of it's intended weight. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Careless Posted July 17, 2008 Share Posted July 17, 2008 And Fidanza makes a 11.5lbs flywheel for your application, I'm sure. P/N 43301 . I just bought it but do your research. It's cheaper than a kaemari. You can also take a look at JGY Customs. Take a look at SPEC's website and do some part number checks. If the 83 ZXT and the 87 Turbo or 85 Turbo flywheels are all the same, then just buy one from an 85 Turbo, which would be 240mm. The FS5R90A was a T5 transmission as well. Listen to your father. There is no "need" for a flywheel assembly weight. Have the unit balanced when your rotating assembly is balanced, and it will be good. being a 3 litre, I've been told the 11lbs flywheel should be easy to drive because of torque, and you're making a stroker here = more umph. But really, I'd wager that 15lbs is a good spot. Not too light, not too heavy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daeron Posted July 17, 2008 Share Posted July 17, 2008 http://www.zcar.com/forums/read/12/1948051If that doesn't make you feel like the biggest butthole in the world than I'm not sure what does... Depressing... Even if I did wait to buy carbs I would have never been that quick to see it. They were like ducks and bread crumbs. Damn. Wowzers, that was a great deal on those carbs if they really were as advertised! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KenshinX Posted July 17, 2008 Share Posted July 17, 2008 $500 pshhh never. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Fidanza-flywheel-Nissan-240Z-260Z-280Z-280ZX-Pickup_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trksidZp3286Q2em14Q2el1318QQhashZitem140249403395QQitemZ140249403395 Not sure if its 225mm or 240mm but you could ask. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
(goldfish) Posted July 17, 2008 Share Posted July 17, 2008 Don't get caught up in how much the flywheel weights. As it's a rotating mass, where the mass is makes a bigger difference then how much there is. I thought I could find a better post, but this will get you started. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=116079 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
josh817 Posted July 17, 2008 Author Share Posted July 17, 2008 Nice ebay find... And horror story... Yah I definitely will think twice about it but I also think Steve the machine shop guy would lighten it to a safe amount. We just say make it as light as you can and he has a template to follow to make sure he doesn't mess anything up. The $120 is to lighten, balance, and surface the thing and its Dad's price not everyday customer price. To get an idea on how much of a mark up he allows, Dad sent a set of axles to him to press out the studs. Each stud is usually $20 but Dad's price is $15. So you know. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
josh817 Posted July 17, 2008 Author Share Posted July 17, 2008 Careless, if its a proper light weight flywheel do you still feel the same way? Like a Fidanza from that ebay link Kenshinx posted? I like chromoly better than aluminum but for times sake and for availability, aluminum may be the way to go. And the drivability, I could care less about. I adjust myself to cars really so when I get into a tail happy, or a sensitive car it takes a day for me to get use to it and then I'm good to go. It also prevents other people from driving it too so when friends ask if they can give it a try I'll say sure and then watch the failure engage. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Quin Posted July 18, 2008 Share Posted July 18, 2008 Same way (adjusting bit) here! No one can drive my car (unless they're using a similar or stronger set up, pretty rare) without killing it every time they try and take off... I'm not even talking hill, I'm talking normal flat road. 3200lb pressure plate with a beefy clutch FTW... Maybe have half an inch of travel between nothing and stalled Don't think any of my aged friends could handle boosting in first or second either... Daily driving that car is a task all in it's own, and I love every minute of it. Fidanza makes great stuff for MkIII Supras, I've never seen one complaint about them. Might be worth a shot! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Careless Posted July 19, 2008 Share Posted July 19, 2008 Careless, if its a proper light weight flywheel do you still feel the same way? Like a Fidanza from that ebay link Kenshinx posted? I like chromoly better than aluminum but for times sake and for availability, aluminum may be the way to go. As long as they are SFI approved, they should be somewhat safer than lightening a standard flywheel by taking half of it's mass away. And the drivability, I could care less about. I adjust myself to cars really so when I get into a tail happy, or a sensitive car it takes a day for me to get use to it and then I'm good to go. I'll let you know how it is in a week. I'm waiting for a damn check and fill plug to put onto my transmission then pop that on with my new clutch and fidanza flywheel. stupid plugs! It also prevents other people from driving it too so when friends ask if they can give it a try I'll say sure and then watch the failure engage. my sentiments exactly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
josh817 Posted July 23, 2008 Author Share Posted July 23, 2008 Lets talk distributors dudes. Because I'm not running a turbo I couldn't use the turbo distributor. I'm thinking it may have too much ignition retard for the boost. I didn't want to use my old distributor off the L24 spare because well... thats points... I see the E12-whatever type for all the guys that want to upgrade to electronic but I am still unaware of why it has to be that particular model, rather than some other electric one. I say this because earlier I had bought some other electric distributor which has the black module box on the inside rather than the outside like the E12 one. Problem though, which I should have remembered because I KNEW there was a catch to it. Back when I was selling my turbo setup someone had asked for the drive shaft thing from the oil pump to the dizzy. This is because there are 2 makes. 1 make for the non turbo's I'm guessing, which have just a straight key, the other one for the ZX and ZXT model I think which has a half moon shaped key, along with teeth to go into their respective grooves. Basically, I have to take my oil pump off and switch it out with the other shaft and hopefully it fits the pump. Another thing to note is that the turbo dizzy has a long snout at the bottom which compensates for a big metal spacer that the others need. Without the spacer the dizzy can't sit flush with the front timing cover. Here are some pictures of what I mean. Left: Electric dizzy from I don't know what car. Middle: '72 240z points dizzy (note the metal spacer at the bottom). Right: Turbo dizzy (note the long snout). Turbo Dizzy L24 dizzy with its respective shaft and the spacer bolted to the bottom. The dizzy bolts to the spacer, the spacer bolts to the block. To adjust the advance you turn the dizzy not the spacer. I'm sure you already knew this though. The dizzy I had bought. Hopefully it works well. It doesn't have the spacer on it so I will steal it from the L24. The end of the non turbo shaft. Bottom of the turbo dizzy (note the grooves for the teeth, and the half moon shaped key which is in the other motor). Turbo dizzy sits flush on the front cover. The other dizzy does not, this is why you need the block. So thats that... Apparently they couldn't order a new radiator like they said they could so we're going to go get it recored for less, which I'm not sure why we didn't do that in the first place. I ordered a nice 16" 2800cfm electric fan for $52 shipped and the correct flywheel. While I wait for them to arrive I need to open up the intake manifold to match ports, fix the oil pump shaft that I just talked about, finish painting my valve cover which looks good I must say. Wrinkle coated it black and I'll go back and paint the lines and letters red. OR I could spray the whole thing with a light coat of red and then make the lines and letters silver to match the blocks color scheme. Honestly, I don't care. I'm ready for this thing to be done. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Quin Posted July 24, 2008 Share Posted July 24, 2008 Little stuff always kicks your ass in the end. Mine should have been done today, but the dumb ass I'm working with didn't make sure he had all the vacuum hoses out of the way on his side before we set the head down on the studs so I got to redo my hg today. My motor is finally back in the car, bolt down but not ready to move yet. I'm trusting him to finish it up while I'm at work tomorrow >.> That's pretty cheap for an e-fan, I need one (possibly 2) myself, as my current fan takes up my entire front engine bay area and is a complete biatch to install and remove and work around... Too bad I have to get brakes and probably tires first, then I'll get some 550CC/53lb injectors, then maybe the fans. You gotta be careful now, this last part is where 95% of people start half-assing stuff and you'll regret it sooner or later/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
josh817 Posted July 24, 2008 Author Share Posted July 24, 2008 Even better news is that when they rebuilt my head they didn't torque the lifters down. I go to adjust the valves and the lifters keep turning when I try to turn the set nut. I need to figure out how much to torque these down because its an aluminum head. Anybody knows, do share. So basically what I'm stuck doing is taking all the rockers off, and the head bolts out on the rocker side, because the washers under the bolts prevent me from getting a socket on the lifter. I WOULD say take the cam towers out and pull the entire cam but the chain is already on! So now I'm at a point where I have to do things the wrong way. I took off half the rockers and I pray I can get them back on without having to lift the cam off... I don't think I will be able to though so I must find a chain holder. How do you guys suggest me putting the chain back on when there is tension in it? I'm pretty much ****ed at this point. ALSO! For the distributor and coil blah blah blah. I see that I have the ballast resistor under my coil but it isn't hooked up. I assume that because I am staying electric, I don't need this thing connected. I also assume that the tach will connect as usual. When you switch to MSD you have to get a different tach because the stock one reads pulses or something like that? I read about it in some other thread, all I know is that I want and need a tach for break in. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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