woldson Posted July 24, 2008 Share Posted July 24, 2008 Block of wood! I will post a pic later. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
woldson Posted July 24, 2008 Share Posted July 24, 2008 This photo is for example only! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Noddle Posted July 25, 2008 Share Posted July 25, 2008 Try this, Nigel Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
josh817 Posted July 25, 2008 Author Share Posted July 25, 2008 Well we came up with a different plan. While the lifters were out we put the valve pivot all the ways down, I think we can slide the rockers in nicely that way. Did my valve cover today and oh god I love it. Black with red stripes and letters. Matched my intake manifold which by the way really really really helps if you add a little oil to it. I use these mace/studded looking bits which are really for wood but they take nice bites out of the aluminum. Only problem is that they clog about every five seconds with the soft metal and you have to wire wheel them. I oiled up the air tool and a little oil dripped in the port, boy did it make a difference. I didn't make another visit to the wire brush afterwards and I finished the other 5 ports in an hour. The shavings to stick though... buy a can of carb cleaner and just spray it down all over. Also I found out some stuff with the distributors! The order in which it bolts is metal spacer to the block - metal plate to the spacer - dizzy to metal plate. The plate has one set screw to hold it on the spacer and the dizzy has a separate set screw to hold it to the plate. The plate has 2 grooves for these screws, this allows you to twist it and set the advance. Alright well the problem is that the old dizzy and the dizzy I bought have 2 different plates. The old one fits the metal spacer because the spacer belongs to the old dizzy, but you try and use the spacer with the new dizzy and its plate, won't work. Your dizzy to plate hole will fit but not the plate to spacer. What I wound up doing was filing out the groove and on the old plate only because the old plate needed less work to make it work. I will get pictures on Saturday I do believe. What I completed: Matching the intake manifold Painting valve cover Fixing oil pump/dizzy drive rod (although I have it 180º off, this is ok, #1 wire will just be at the 7 o'clock position rather than 1 o'clock) 50% done with valve adjustment due to me having to take apart half the head... Oil pan on What I have left: Finish valve adjustment Make gasket for oil cutoff block Mount alternator Install belt Install flywheel Install clutch Sort out the wiring in the engine bay Replace the steering rack boots while at the same time adjust the toe in because the car always steered to the right with no hands. Things I'm waiting for: Radiator is done and needs to be picked up Flywheel is coming in Electric fan is coming in Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
woldson Posted July 25, 2008 Share Posted July 25, 2008 I know this is not higely technical but I just put these, http://www.goodyearep.com/ProductListing.aspx?folderid=428 on my car and could not believe how my noise reduction there was!!! My zxs always had a wheering noise up front, just figured it was the iderler pullies. (I'm running an electric fan) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
josh817 Posted July 25, 2008 Author Share Posted July 25, 2008 The fan is connected to the water pump so I'm still using all the pulleys that were used before, the fan just isn't bolted on. That thing makes your car sound like a space ship when you're under the hood. Stupid fan. :[ My flywheel came in an it looks lovely. Now I can finish the motor, sort out wiring, and put motor in! Exciting! The last 2 or 3 pages on here hasn't been much work because I've been in a pickle for the longest time! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
josh817 Posted July 26, 2008 Author Share Posted July 26, 2008 Ok this is really for Dragonfly but I'll take anyones answer. He was talking about his 38mm venturis and I was reading through my How to Modify blah blah blah book. In there it shows a chart about carbs and says what type of venturi to use. On the 40mm one it says run the biggest or no venturi and I'm wondering if I can just yank the venturis out of mine if they are the problem and just run it open... Part of me says no because there is nothing speeding up the air but the other part says well you have vacuum from the motor and the book says so... Also! To anyone with the F54 block, the 4 bolt holes around the filter area, what are those for?! I want to say oil cooler but Dad said those just screw onto the part that the filter goes onto... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
josh817 Posted July 27, 2008 Author Share Posted July 27, 2008 Alright guys here we go, the motor is generally complete. Alternator and hoses need to be put on. Other than that my radiator is ready, fan is coming in this week, and the motor will be in and hopefully operational by next Sunday. :] Oh and there is a picture of the headers too. Chopped off the flange because it was 2.5" and I need 3" exhaust. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
woldson Posted July 27, 2008 Share Posted July 27, 2008 Once again, Very nice! Like the valve cover:). Bet you can just taste the brunt rubber! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Quin Posted July 28, 2008 Share Posted July 28, 2008 Looking good kid, keep up the good work! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Careless Posted July 28, 2008 Share Posted July 28, 2008 that looks really really well done. good job. =) i hope the work you did with the internals pays off. I'm willing to bet besides the ordeals with the irate child, your dad jankin' parts from you, and your wait times on certain pieces, you have come to enjoy building engines and this won't be the only one you do in the near future (for other cars, or more power, ofcourse!). drive it like you built it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
josh817 Posted July 28, 2008 Author Share Posted July 28, 2008 Well I do have the spare L24 that I would like to build for someone but I want to see how mine works out. I don't trust my work until it has proven itself to me by driving it and stressing it. If something breaks like a rod or whatever, I can go back and see what I need to do and fix it. Basically I don't want to build somebody a motor that blows up on them or that is a slug. After break in we'll take it to the dyno. Every last Saturday of the month its $30 for 3 runs or something like that. Anybody have any ideas on how much advance to run? I have stock KA24 pistons in there so they aren't forged or anything if that matters. I would guess it does as it may be easier to burn a hole through? Not sure. When I told Dad the advance some of you guys are running is 30º+ he was like o_O oh god. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
woldson Posted July 28, 2008 Share Posted July 28, 2008 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
josh817 Posted July 28, 2008 Author Share Posted July 28, 2008 Thats a good point. I'm not so wise when I'm angry. But I have slept and things are better. ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Quin Posted July 29, 2008 Share Posted July 29, 2008 Got mine running today! Stupid AFM crapped out and it barely runs now, but it runs! lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
josh817 Posted August 2, 2008 Author Share Posted August 2, 2008 Guys, tomorrow is the day the beast will live. My tach hasn't worked ever since I got the car and I took out the turbo wiring harness and it appears that the old is still in the car. However... There is some stuff that I have no idea whats going on... A blue and a white wire from the coil, white goes into cabin for ignition, blue goes across the firewall to some connector, from the connector it goes to a relay, from there to a capped off connector, and then to the starter bolt.... I figure its just ground if power is from ignition but thats start, does power still come from there for run? Does the alt. run its power that way or what... I can't find any wire from the tach to go to the coil, its just a connector to the tach and thats it, no stray wires.... I have a feeling I am SCREWED on this because the previous owner is done talking to me about a car he sold last year but he did all the wiring so looking at schematics only helps to a point.... :[ I'll make a video to clarify. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Careless Posted August 3, 2008 Share Posted August 3, 2008 you're not screwed, wires are just wires. take a breathe and whip out an FSM and ignore colours if you have to. good job, hope to hear some good news. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
josh817 Posted August 3, 2008 Author Share Posted August 3, 2008 Careless... It is, judgment day. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
josh817 Posted August 3, 2008 Author Share Posted August 3, 2008 Retainer clip that holds throwout bearing carrier onto fork. I NEED ONE! MINE IS BROKEN! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Quin Posted August 4, 2008 Share Posted August 4, 2008 Always the little stuff that gets you =[ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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